Hey, I have an original 1948 f1 pickup 226 H flathead with a 4 sp stock setup,granny gears.Would anyone know a reliable shop that specializes in these rebuilds.I don't know if it would be worth the money to invest in this set-up, I would like more horsepower out of this engine but told not many parts available.Another option is a ford 300 6cyl would double my 95 hp now they put out around 170hp with 1 barrel.Would I be making a mistake swithching flathead for this engine,Thanks

 

Well we don't know exactly where you are so it would be tough to recommend a machine shop nearby to you. Might want to fill in your profile/signature so that is visible.

Having a stock 226 myself, I know the parts aren't as available as other engines. I can say that the horsepower is nothing to write home about either but it is enough to move the truck around just fine in most road situations. If you want to go 80 mph, get better MPG and tear off from stoplights, nope the six won't do that.
So it depends on what your goal is for your truck. Do you want it as stock as possible? Do you want to spend time and money re-fitting a different engine and having to go the whole distance to make sure it is a smooth fit and reliable and has all working gauges and controls?
A different engine might require new springs to compensate for weight differences too.
The flathead six when rebuilt and carefully tuned and rigged is a very reliable durable motor.
A different engine in your truck could affect the value negatively if it isn't a fully planned out and well designed full drive-train update. Some folks here might disagree but around here a basic and quick swap-out does not raise the value five cents.
You have to pretty much apologize for it not being original unless you have a full and compatible drive-train upgrade that has enough miles on it after the update to prove the kinks are worked out and nothing on the truck is strained or sloppy.
So all this probably doesn't answer your question directly, but it gives something to think about - we'll need more info from you about your long term plans are for your truck.


Tom

 

If they can get the parts, any reputable shop should be able to do the machine work. It ain't rocket science, like the V8's that didn't have adjustable lifters. But you really need to make sure everything is rebuildable before committing $$$ -- no good getting it bored and the valves cut, only to find the crank is cracked!

 

Be aware that even with a fresh souped up engine, you still only have a 50-55 mph truck. A gearing change is needed if you want much more speed.

 

I have a 226 in a 1950 f1, It aint no speed demon but is is a good running and dependable engiine. If I want speed, I would transplant something with more unph. Mine cruses at about 55, thats about it, but it does it without laboring, and it is comfortable to drive at that speed.

 

I had mine rebuilt locally. I think the only problem he encountered was not being able to find a replacement or a rebuild kit for the oil pump. He also gave up trying to repair the heat riser on the exhaust manifold. As Ross said, any reputable shop should be able to handle it.

 

Thanks, yes I have put a ford 9 in rear 2.75 gears it runs good on hwy.I am concerned about cracks in block once it is torn down,i have heard they all have cracks where head bolts on.I live in south Carolina myrtle beach do you know any flathead rebuilders and trans rebuilders that are capable of doing this? My trans grinds even when I double clutch ,I start off in second gear but still it grinds going in,Thanks

 

ct50, what did you actually do with your heat riser problem?......I have seen some where they take it out altogether and then weld up the shaft hole in the manifold
Ed
near Philadelphia

 

There may not be a problem with your transmission.

It has been my experience that a lot of practice is needed to get the engine and transmission RPMs to match to eliminate the grinding. I have only driven my truck a little over 200 miles and I still grind the gears on occasion, but I'm getting better at shifting.

I have found that taking it slow when double clutching and tapping the accelerator to increase engine RPMs helps dramatically. When I first started driving it, I found that shifting into 3rd sooner (at a lower speed) helped, but now I can wind it out in 2nd and not grind going into 3rd.

What I mean by taking it slow is not trying to make the shift in one fluid motion, but rather separate the steps: 1) push in the clutch 2) shift to neutral 3) let out the clutch 4) push in the clutch 5) tap the gas 6) shift to 3rd. Repeat for 3rd to 4th. I know this is the steps you are probably using, but don't be in a hurry and just try doing it slowly.

I'm still learning to downshift, but that's a whole different story.

Let us know if that makes a difference.

 

Cracks are much more common on the flathead V8s than in the 6 cylinders. Also, rebuildable flathead 6 motors are dirt cheap. Keep an eye out, you may find a rebuilt 6 that a hot rodder is pulling. The last flat 6 I bought was rebuilt and I paid $500 for it (several years ago).

 

Ok thanks I will try shifting that way ,I am not new to shifting this way approx. 2000 miles.My problem is when truck is running in neutral stopped at a light or putting in reverse when I want to take off I depress clutch and no matter what gear it goes in it grinds like crazy,I have no problem double clutching once moving it is taking off that gives me the noise,thanks for listening

 

I misunderstood your problem then. I thought you said the problem was grinding when shifting from 2nd to 3rd.

If you can't get it into gear or reverse when you're stopped I'd first question how high is your idle? Should be around 500 RPM iirc. I know if I try to put it into gear before I've pushed in the throttle while warming it up, I can't get it into gear either. Hope this helps.

Here's a helpful link for the 226 specs:

Ford Flathead Six 1949 to 51

 

Since the transmission has no sychros, the only way to stop the gears in the transmission is to step on the clutch and wait a while (like 30 seconds), or to grind into a gear. As Joe mentioned, a low idle speed helps a bit. 140W gear oil also helps a bit.

Also, is your clutch in proper adjustment? If the clutch isn't fully disengaging, you will grind going into a gear from a stop.

 

That's exactly what the rebuilder did, without consulting me first. I'm still ticked off about it. I haven't restarted the rebuilt engine yet so I don't know how it affects the performance of the engine but I'm trying to keep the truck as original as possible so it's frustrating. I've tried a couple of times to find a replacement manifold but good ones are really scare.

 

Im with you on this , It doesn't sound like the clutch is adjusted properly or it wouldn't grind at all when sitting still at idle.