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I have a 1980 ford f150 4x4 with manual lockout hubs. I just repacked my front bearings, and they still seem to get hot. Has anyone had this same problem. I repacked them again a week later, and replaced the brake calipers bc they were cheap, and had been sticking 8 years ago, the last time the truck had run. I plan on using the truck for anything i need to, ie cross country treks if need be. And would like the peace of mind knowing the the bearings aren't going to sieze and tear off the wheel. I have done numerous other fixups to get this truck in good running condition, but these wheel bearings are giving me fits. One guy at oreilly's, a local auto parts store, told me that sometimes the rubber lines can fall apart from the inside and cause a sticking caliper, does this sound reasonable, it sorta does to me. Also my master cylinder is leaking a little bit, and that is the next thing on my list to replace, along with the rubber lines. I just wanted some input from anyone with experience with similiar wheel bearings
Harmon
Providing the bearings and races felt good (not loose) when you installed the rotor on the spindle I would say you have got a sticking caliper causing the rotor to heat up and in turn transfer that heat to the wheel bearings. I have seen the rubber brake lines corode around the metal crimped connectors and limit the lines capacity to get the fluid back in the master cylinder when releasing the brake thus causing a sticky caliper. One test might be to take the line loose at the caliper and have friend gently push the brake pedal to see how much flow you have. I have a buddy with a Chevy truck and he has replaced both lines on the front because of the corrosion I described and it fixed his problem. Is the pedal hard?
taberry
I fixed this problem already but thanks for the reply.
FYI it was, i believe a sticking proportioning valve, their is a nipple like thing sticking out the end, and i loosened it up so it moved with the application and release of the brakes. Also i had replaced, before figuring the above out, the calipers, rubber hose lines, master cylinder-leaking, and 3 of the 5 hard lines. The pedal was very hard before, and then after all these it was spongy, until i loosened the proportion valve nipple. Now they seem to work fine, however they will heat up occassionally, but thats only when I'm in speed racer mode trying to get somewhere it a hurry.
Thanks again for your post, that's what makes this place so great, all the people willing to lend a hand, and actually show interest in getting your problem fixed.
Harmon