EGR question
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 352
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From: Tillamook, Ore
EGR question
1990 F250, 5.8, E40D. I bought a code reader because my check engine light comes on from time to time. KOEO test says I have an EGR vent fault. I think the code was 84. I removed the EGR valve and looked for any blockage and it looks fine. Checked the voltage to the EVP sensor, it's correct. Not sure how to check the sensor itself but I unplugged the IAC and truck still idles. According to my book that means EGR is fine. I put a vaccum gauge on the line to the EGR and there is very little, it hardly moves the needle. Even when engine is revved up, no change on the gauge. I'm wondering about the black plastic part the vaccum lines go through before the EGR. Book I have is a Chiltons and it's not very thorough. Might be called an EGR control solenoid? It has two wires and two vaccum lines attached. there is good vaccum to it, but not from it at any rpm. Any help would be appreciated.
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 203
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From: San Diego
EGR question
Check the code again and make sure you get it right.
EGR function is only active off idle and under WOT. The "vacuum regulator" is actually a vacuum actuator which opens or closes a little with pulse commands from the ecm.
If you tell us what the code was, we could probably offer more assistance.
Read this for more details:
http://people.ucsc.edu/~dbrandt/mustang/smog.shtml
Regards, Robert.
EGR function is only active off idle and under WOT. The "vacuum regulator" is actually a vacuum actuator which opens or closes a little with pulse commands from the ecm.
If you tell us what the code was, we could probably offer more assistance.
Read this for more details:
http://people.ucsc.edu/~dbrandt/mustang/smog.shtml
Regards, Robert.
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 203
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From: San Diego
EGR question
The one drawback with the Innova system (I have the 3145 digital) is the code descriptions in their manual. You should pretend the descriptions are not even in the manual. Your chilton's is much more accurate.
The pcm has detected the vacuum regulator (actuator) not opening as it should, due to lack of response from the egr position sensor.
It is your job to figure out why. No vacuum to the regulator? Vacuum line to the egr plugged? Positions sensor bad? Vacuum regulator bad? (I just replaced one on my '93 ranger).
Check everything before spending your money. The game is to get it right the first time.
Regards, Robert.
The pcm has detected the vacuum regulator (actuator) not opening as it should, due to lack of response from the egr position sensor.
It is your job to figure out why. No vacuum to the regulator? Vacuum line to the egr plugged? Positions sensor bad? Vacuum regulator bad? (I just replaced one on my '93 ranger).
Check everything before spending your money. The game is to get it right the first time.
Regards, Robert.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 352
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From: Tillamook, Ore
EGR question
Thanks guys, I guess I better invest in a multimeter and a Haynes manual. I'm really disappointed in this Chiltons, It just isn't very thorough. I'm assuming the black plastic part I asked about earlier is the regulator (actuator). Couldn't identify it with the Chiltons. It sits next to the coil on left side of engine.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
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From: Memphis, TN
EGR question
The Exhaust Valve Regulator vacuum solenoid valve is controlled by the EEC and should pass vacuum when 12V is applied, but vent the EGR (green) line when it's not energized.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: So Cal
EGR question
Also check all the rubber hoses up stream and down stream of the EGR, including any that pass thru another devide.
I spent two days playing with my wife's van thinking it was a bad EGR diaphram($100), bad EGR solenoid($150), Bad Backpressure Control($150) device, when it turned out to be about 3 inches of rubber hose that was way in back of the engine between the BDC and the exhaust. The rubber had deteriorated losing backpressure from the exhaust to the BCD Diaphram which lost the vacumm from the daisy chain from intake to EGR solenoid to EGR diaphram to BCD. So check vacumm and any other rubber hoses connected to the system. Note that the outrageous costs were for Japanese parts in a Ford product.
You might also have a bad exhaust gas line from the manifold to the EGR.
FWIW,
Jim Henderson
I spent two days playing with my wife's van thinking it was a bad EGR diaphram($100), bad EGR solenoid($150), Bad Backpressure Control($150) device, when it turned out to be about 3 inches of rubber hose that was way in back of the engine between the BDC and the exhaust. The rubber had deteriorated losing backpressure from the exhaust to the BCD Diaphram which lost the vacumm from the daisy chain from intake to EGR solenoid to EGR diaphram to BCD. So check vacumm and any other rubber hoses connected to the system. Note that the outrageous costs were for Japanese parts in a Ford product.
You might also have a bad exhaust gas line from the manifold to the EGR.
FWIW,
Jim Henderson
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Tillamook, Ore
EGR question
Thanks Jim, I'll look things over real close cause I don't like spending money on parts if I don't have to. Demolition derbied for about 10 years and learned how to jerryrig pretty good, but truck is in nice shape and I'm trying to keep it that way.