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It doesn't really mean yours couldn't be the pump or the thermostat, but that's how mine is and I haven't had any cooling issues pulling my (light) 20' boat 60 - 75 miles at a time in the 90-degree weather.
I have to squeeze hard to get the sides of the hose to touch; but not "grit your teeth" hard. LOL
Just experienced this on my 7.3, so I don't know how well it transfers to the gasser. Was overheating in traffic and below 45, 50 mph. Had to crank the heater way up to make it home.
The fan clutch was shot to hell, truck at normal operating temperature I could spin it easily by hand and watch it circle around several times. The water pump wasn't leaking much of anything from what I could tell. I replaced the both radiator hoses since they were way old, as well as the water pump just to be safe. Full flush on the coolant system showed a great deal of silicate drop out in the catch bucket, along with strange little black flakey particles.
Later in the week I decided to poke around and figure out what the black things were. Cut open one of the old hoses, and it had started to deteriorate internally. Took the water pump apart and it was jam packed full of them in passages. My guess is the hose had failed internally out of sight and was packing the water pump pull of debris, resulting in a serious blockage and flow restriction. I'm not an expert by any means, but it's what I deduced from what my findings...
Mecdac, ya I flushed it about the sametime I replaced the tank and thermostat, correct me please if im wrong guys, but when the truck is running you shouldnt be able to squeeze the upper hose and collapse it right?
You should NOT be able to squeeze the upper hose when the system is at full operating temperature (running or not.) The pressure is dependent on temperature not flow. The pressure is limited by the cap and it's relief pressure. It can be running but if it is not up to temp, the hose will be "cold" (since the thermostat has not opened.) It can also be at full pressure when not running as it should be when your park it after a moderate drive.
After you start a cold engine you should be able to feel the changes as this takes place. Although it will take a while. (longer for the diesels it seems) The HEATER hoses will start to get hot long before the upper rad hose does. Then the rad hose will start to get warm (generally starts on the bottom side of the upper hose.) This will continue to get warmer and the pressure starts to build.
Eventually you will not be able to squeeze the upper hose for 2 reasons. One, it is at full pressure. Two, it is too hot to comfortably apply enough pressure to squeeze it tightly.
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