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If not the steering column then you need to check that you have power going to the coil and to the ignition box. Here's the wiring diagram, and you should have 12v at the red circle and 12v cranking and about 7v in Run at the green circle.
ok guys I went and bought a new coil, did not help still no start. I dropped the column and everything still plugged in. I do not understand why I got juice to one side of the coil and no spark! I don't understand how working under the dash would cause it to not start.
Have you checked for voltage as I outlined above? We can easily determine what the issue is if you will do some testing.
. I got it running! I had the tach hooked up and when I changed the dash ribbon I never hooked the tach back up. So I wired it up the original way and it started. I'm assuming, it continued the circuit once I wired it correctly! As they say, it is usually something simple. Thanks all for all the help!!
See the DG wire(darkgreen) going from the coil negative to the "solid state"? (And that's also were the tach hooks up).
The module (solid state box) grounds and ungrounds this darkgreen wire. That completes the circuit through the coil and each time it ungrounds the coil, you get a spark through the coil wire.
The grounding and ungrounding creates pulses and the tach reads these and tells you the rpm of the engine. If the tach wiring got shorted and was grounded all the time, or got hooked somewhere and got voltage on the wire all the time, then the DG wire would not be pulsing the coil, so no spark.
Thanks Dave and everyone else that helped me, now I just hope the battery don't go dead after sitting a day or so. I pulled the positive cable and hooked a test light between the cable and the battery, I had no light, so I'm hoping whatever the drain was I fixed it when I redone the shorted out wires for the light switch,i got a new switch coming to put on tomarrow.i'm gonna let it sit today and see if it starts tomarrow. Again Thanks for all the help.
Ok so I finally got my truck to start. Now I'm wondering why it keeps going dead after a couple days of not running! I had the tachometer hooked up before but I didn't hook it back up. I read somewhere that if I had the tach hooked up to being hot all the time that this would drain the battery! Does anyone know this to be true? I guess now I have unhooked the tach ill see in a couple days! If anyone knows this to be true I would like to know. Thanks to all.
I would think that if the Tach being hooked up were enough drain to kill the battery in a couple of days, the test light "draw test" he did would have showed some drain (dim light). Even the factory clock causes a little drain 0 but not enough to kill a battery that fast.
BTW - I have a factory Tach (and clock) and I know I can leave my truck sitting for a couple of weeks before the drain is noticeable. But I also have dual batteries.
I think something else is wrong - probably a bad battery as you suggested.
I would think that if the Tach being hooked up were enough drain to kill the battery in a couple of days, the test light "draw test" he did would have showed some drain (dim light). Even the factory clock causes a little drain 0 but not enough to kill a battery that fast.
BTW - I have a factory Tach (and clock) and I know I can leave my truck sitting for a couple of weeks before the drain is noticeable. But I also have dual batteries.
I think something else is wrong - probably a bad battery as you suggested.
I didn't have the tach hooked up when I did the test! I did the test after I unhooked the tach. So I guess I won't know til the truck sits a couple days. I had the battery and the charging system checked, they both checked out ok. So I'm hoping it was the way I had the tack hooked up. I'll wait and see, if that is it, I'll hook the tach up so it is on a hot that is only on when the key is on! If I even hook it up.
The factory tach and clock pull essentially nothing with the key off. But aftermarket tachs can pull enough to drop the battery quite a bit if always on.
I had similar symptoms in my car once, battery didn't have enough charge after 3 days to start it.
I suspected the battery and took the car to a local parts place to be tested for verification... some kid came out with a handeld box he hooked to the battery; he asked me to start the car and turn on all accessories, which I did... he then told me my battery was fine and that I had a short circuit in the wiring someplace.
I figured that likely wasn't true (had the car since it was brand new and knew every change that had happened to it over its life) and so I thanked the kid for his efforts and headed to a nearby Interstate battery store... they put a true load tester on it which showed the battery to be failing with at least one and possibly two dead cells.
Point being, you can't necessarily trust the results of a "test" especially when they're being performed by snot-nosed children using inadequate equipment and/or procedures...
I had similar symptoms in my car once, battery didn't have enough charge after 3 days to start it.
I suspected the battery and took the car to a local parts place to be tested for verification... some kid came out with a handeld box he hooked to the battery; he asked me to start the car and turn on all accessories, which I did... he then told me my battery was fine and that I had a short circuit in the wiring someplace.
I figured that likely wasn't true (had the car since it was brand new and knew every change that had happened to it over its life) and so I thanked the kid for his efforts and headed to a nearby Interstate battery store... they put a true load tester on it which showed the battery to be failing with at least one and possibly two dead cells.
Point being, you can't necessarily trust the results of a "test" especially when they're being performed by snot-nosed children using inadequate equipment and/or procedures...
Very true on the test being done by a parts store! I'm gonna wait a couple days and see what happens. Thank you all for all the input!
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