New guy here. My dad recently passed and I inherited his 72 F100. He bought it brand new and it has been in the family ever since(I actually rode home from the hospital in it).

I've got some ideas in mind for it but for now I need to get it back on the road. It has been sitting for about 8 or 9 years without being run.

I've already chase the pack rat out of the engine compartment and was both shocked and thrilled to find that they don't seem to have chewed any of the wiring.

I know I need to make sure there is no old gas in it and change the oil but what else should I consider doing before trying to start it?

Here's a few pics:







A couple of the engine:

 

I'd replace the fuel pump as the ethanol in modern day gasoline absolutely kills the rubber seals in pumps designed before the introduction of ethanol. I'd also give it a full tuneup. Plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, air filter, oil filter, fuel filter, coolant, PCV valve...

 

2x with trozei, plus....
New battery.
Rebuild the carburetor.
Grease every fitting.
Inspect then bleed/flush the brake system.
with the plugs out, liberally squirt WD-40 in each cylinder over a few days and let it sit. Then turn the engine by hand to break the rings from the cylinder walls.
Prime the engine oil system before initial start.
Air up the tires and spare. Look for cracked sidewalls/treads. Replace as necessary after ya can start and stop.
... add a 7-inch headlamp to the shopping list.

Welcome to FTE.

 

2X Hio. I'd add Agent 99 in the shotgun seat.

 

We need to find a Sunbeam Tiger... Let's discuss this plan using The Cone of Silence.

We're not obscure, are we?

 

Ya may want to replace all the belts as they crack over time.

Orich

 

Agent 86, Hi I'm John, Welcome to and the Bumpside Forum.

Nice looking straight inheritance there. I have revived a couple ol engines, and prefer Marvels Mystery oil over WD40 for cylinder lube. I'd get a couple spoons into each bore and leave the spark plugs out, then get a 1/2" drive socket & pull handle and turn it a couple revs with no gas connected. You can stop and let it rest there or after an oil change connect a battery and turn the engine over (plugs out) until normal pressure is archived on dash gauge. Get all the old gas out and be extra careful not to let any get on you are your clothes, because it can stink BIG TIME and is hard to get rid of. Use rubber gloves. You should be able to pull and rinse the tank with some new gas.

I suspect the engine will be in decent shape. I was recently introduced to a product "LA’s Totally Awesome All-Purpose Cleaner" at the dollar store for $1.00 that is one of the best grease cutters that I have ever seen. Spray is on full strength and rinse it off with water in 10-15 min.

Next step I'd start looking for a 73-76 F100 donor for power disc brake and power steering upgrade.

Take a little time on getting it started and on the road you wont regret it.


John

 

No, Maxwell, you're not obscure. All things old are new again.

Hola, Senor Batman!

 

Nice looking truck. Looks like it might have a clutch pedal in it? No column shift, so I'm guessing creeper 4spd? Might find the clutch is stuck/rusted. That might be an issue to address.

I see a "Performance Ford Club of America" decal in the window! That goes back a few years, as it went belly up about 10-12 yrs ago. Our local chapter is still going strong on our own.

Take your time, follow the basic steps that have been discussed and you should have a nice running truck.

The valve stem seals are likely dried and gone by now. Expect a little blue smoke from the exhaust. Nothing terminal.


I enjoy watching Get Smart again on ME TV.

 

Thanks for the advice everybody. I had considered hand turning the engine to make sure it wasn't siezed but I hadn't thought to put WD40 or Mystery oil in the cylinders first.

I'm not super worried about it starting, it has always been a reliable and strong runner. I just want to make sure I don't damage it when I fire it up.

It's going to be a little while before I have it on the road, the tire on it are shot. The wheels aren't in great shape either so I am looking at replacing them as well. This has turned into an adventure of its own, 5 on 5.5 doesn't seem like a popular pattern. I've found some stuff(like at LMC) but would welcome recommendations for places to look.

@jowilker: I've been looking at disc brakes. My dad actually has the front suspension(I-beams, springs, etc) from a 74 that he was planning on putting on. Going to hang onto it for the time being not sure if I want to go this route or just use one of those adaptor kits.

@Freighttrain: It is indeed a four speed(well kinda, I never used 1st gear unless I was pulling a trailer or had a load in the bed ) The clutch didn't seem stuck when I was pushing the pedal but I will keep an eye out for that. It is indeed a Performance Ford Club sticker my dad was a member for a long time. That is going to stay.

 

"Sea Foam" that you get from the parts stores is good too. When mine sat for over a year, I pulled all the plugs and sprayed sea foam in each cylinder and let it sit. When I came back the next day I "bumped" the key a couple of times, put the plugs back in, and fired it up.

 

The pedal may move, but the actual disc may be stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate. Push the pedal and bump the starter(once you get it loosened up)with it IN gear. If the motor spins, then you are okay. If it tries to move the truck, then you need to try to "jar" it loose. IE: hold the pedal and keep bumping the starter or try to rock the truck with the pedal pushed. Sometimes they can be stuck good, others no so much.

 

Just use ATF down the cylinders. That's how people break loose rusted engines that sat outside for years. ATF is an excellent penetrant. I always mix it 50/50 with acetone to thin it out, but that's for things like bolt threads, not piston rings.

 

Sweet truck.

 

So after a year of no progress, I have moved into a house with enough garage space to move the truck down to Tucson. First order of business is that I need to put new wheels and tires on it so that I can tow it down here.

What I am trying to decide is what size wheel to go with. Originally I was going to stick with 15x7, which are what's on it now but recently I have been wondering about something a little more radical like 16x8. Do these fit with no clearance issues? I am looking to maintain stock ride height, so what tire size would I pair up with them? Thoughts? Opinions?