I see threads where the OP asks about the Toyota power steering conversion for a 61-64 F100.

Everything I have found on the net is for the 53-60 F100s.

Many people, including people who have never owned a 61-64 F100 post that the Toyota PS conversion is a easy upgrade for the 61-64 F100.

Question: Is there anyone here who actually owns a 61-64 F100 and has done the Toyota PS conversion?

 

Sorry...I had to laugh at your last choice...then couldn't resist casting a vote for it.

 

I did vote that I have not one on a 61-64 but have read the write ups and it looks like a good set up. I have done the conversion on a 66 F100 4x4 and it is working great. The conversion was fairly easy and cheap when I did the work myself.

 

I did one on a customers 63 uni.

Easy peachy.

Garbz

 

A write-up would be nice for those wanting to convert.

How does the steering shaft mate to the Toyota box? The diameter and spline count must be different.

Im happy with the manual steering. Less moving parts, fewer things to maintain.

 

here is the write up;

Toyota Steering Box Swap For 1948-1960 Trucks | Ford Trucks

 

Thanks Bertha but that article is for 48-60 trucks.

Is there a difference in the 61-64 trucks?

If there isn't, why isn't the article titled 48-64 trucks?

The article states that you lose the horn button in the steering wheel. What does the steering box have to do with the horn button?

Im still looking for someone who has done this on a 61 to 64 truck and can provide details.

 

Should work on trucks up to 64, from what I understand. The guys that wrote it were on the older truck forums

 

Early shafts are hollow, hence the wire travels up the center of the shaft through the steering box and up the shaft to the horn. Thus you loose the horn function unless you add a aftermarket column or yard solid shaft unit.

What they mean is the frames and steering boxes mount similar. Hence if it worked there it should work over here with minor modifications.

It takes a modicum of fabrication skills to do this swap or pay someone to do it.

The steering box on 48 through 1964 F100 and F240s have an integral shaft and box. One piece, no rag joints, no universal. and no splines.

You need to provide a new steering column or modify the stock column and source a shaft and connection universal. DD x Toy splines.

Here is how i did this.

1. Had the owner find the correct early 80s 4x4 box complete with hoses and the Pittman arm. This box mounts and bolts on the top of the frame in a toy and needs to sit through the frame on the 61 to 64.

2. Brought the truck in to my garage placed on jack stands and pulled the steering wheel. I then removed the floor dust plates and column from the shaft. It fits tight to the back but will come off.

3. Removed the pinch bolt and stock Pittman arm and saved for later use. DON'T LOOSE IT. Let the drag-link hang out of the way still attached to the front spindle arm. I then removed the steering box and shaft from underneath.

4. At this point i mocked up the toy box through the stock hole in the frame and alignment in to the cab. from this i measured up to fabricate a bracket. I made this from 1" x 2" Bar Stock in a L Shape. I mounted the box to this then marked the frame on the inside for location. I also marked where the through bolts to the box were. I then removed the box and bracket and drilled Four 3/8" holes in the center of the marked area and avoided the through bolt locations. I then place the box back in and marked the four locations with a centering type marking punch. Pulled it all back apart and drilled and tapped the four holes to accept 3/8 24 x 1 1/4" fine thread bolts.

5. Put it all back together and check for function and fit. I had to do a slight bit of tweak to the upper rail with a BF adjustable wrench. Don't bolt it down tight yet, only snug.

6. I then centered the Toyota box and mounted the Pittman arm to check for any interference at the stock opening. It had decent clearance.

7. I then compared the center line of the Toy box output shaft to the stock ford unit and them. I then marked a V cut on the head of the Toyota Arm to accept a corresponding cut on the ford arm to have it at 90 degrees to grade at steering box center.

8. Once cut i TIG welded the ford part to the Toyota Part. High AMPS and 1/8 filler rod. Each is good quality forged steel and will hold up if correctly welded.

9. Placed the hybrid arm back on the truck and checked lock to lock and looked pretty good. Bolted the drag link back on. (The Kits give you a flat plate type arm with splines for the toy box and a 7 degree taper for the drag link. or a ball stud for earlier trucks.)

10. I then took the stock Toyota ends and the PS pump ends of the pump onto the small block Chevy mounted in the truck to my local hose shop and had them fabricate the correct hoses. If i remember it was about 35 bucks. I also had on the pressure line added a PS limiting valve to adjust the pressure for the GM pump. ( i think i found this at ziggys or some other shop on line. Common use with a GM pump on a MII Rack.)

11. The owner provided a Chevy van tilt column to put in the truck. A fairly simple deal to mount up top but a challenge at the floor. I fabricated up a lower pinch type to hold it at the floor on the outside of the cab. You have to come up with some kind of lower retaining mount here no matter what column you use. I recommend a tilt unit as the angles of the shaft remain as stock and the tilt really gives a lot more options for room.

12. I removed the stock flange on the column shaft and machined a double D on it. I sourced a Toyota spline by Double D Borgeson universal to connect the two. There is a few other methods to do this but this is what i used. Cheap and simple.

13. Put some locktite red on the frame mount bolts and tightened it all up. Bled the fluids checked for leaks. test drove it did some adjusting for steering quickness and it left my shop a happy truck.

Wiring of the TS and horn was the owners problem.

I had the pattern for the bracket and dimensions but i have no idea where. I did the swap over ten years ago.

Garbz

 

Thanks for the write-up. That should be helpful to anyone looking to add PS to a 61-64.

Initially I wanted PS, but after getting the correct size tires I really don't see a need for it.

 

So after doing some research to add power steering to my 1964 292 3 speed on the column some of these kits say does not fit with my configuration(the 3 speed column shifter).
Does the Toyota setup work with this setup or do I need to do any cutting or welding? Basically im looking for simplest install not necessarily cheapest either.
I also plan on adding long/short tube headers but also guessing these depend on the clearance with the PS.
Is there any thing else im missing that could cause any interference?

Anyone have ideas ok kits out there that fit these parameters?

I have seen an electric kit but its expensive but seems to make more room in the engine bay anyone heard anything about these?

 

I don't believe there is any reasonable way to keep your 3 on the tree column shift and add power steering. Reason is that any power steering requires a person to cut the column someplace in the midst (middle-ish) and once you do that there isn't a way to pass the shift tube through the power steering unit. The Electric power steering goes on the inside of the cab between the dash and firewall, but again once you cut your existing column to insert the power steering unit there is no way to pass the shift tube through the middle. Some guy mentioned creating a linkage that bypasses the column, going around the power steering unit, but I think that would be a pipe dream that never materialized.

 

Have you looked into adapting the power cylinder/control valve type power steering that was used on almost all Ford cars and Corvettes in the 60's an 70's. I think some 4X4 pickups used that system also.
It would definitely take some hotrod/redneck engineering but you would retain your stock steering box and column.

 

Thank you for the insight. I couldn't figure out why all these units said don't work with my truck. I
If I move the shifter to the floor then do you think my window will open up a bit for this install?
I'm at the point of scraping the idea but the wife wants to be able to drive the truck and wants PS.

 

I added P/S to my 64 by using POL rack and pinion kit that bolts to the front axle, real nice set up . you still have to get pump and bracket, hoses, pulley, it eliminates the gear box, and all the cross over parts easy install. you still need a different column, modifying the stock one does not work well. cost about $1K by the time you obtain all the parts.