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While crawling under the truck to identify my speedo gear, I noticed a oil covering the front u-joint. There seems to be a lot of play in the drive shaft in this area as well. Don't think it is the u-joint, but could be. Never replaced one.
Seems like there may be some front to back play in looking at the shaft as it enters the ....Ok tell me where this is entering. I know its not the tranny.
You may also have a worn tail shaft bushing, also make sure the slip yoke is not worn. Most of the time these parts are worn due to a frozen front universal joint.
Thanks.
Service manual here I come. Definitely stuff I have never done.
At the other end of the line, I am leaking the differential as well. Not sure were yet, but I don't think it is just the housing gasket.
That seal is going to be hard to get out using conventional methods. Don't bother with a puller. Get a screwdriver and hammer it in. Beat the crap out of it. You own't hurt anything.
Understood. But don't I have to pull something else out to get to the seal - in other words, I won't be doing it under my truck.
Sounds like some time back on the jack stands for the rust bucket (term used affectionately).
Yes, pull the driveshaft. Disconnect the carrier bearing and then you should be able to easily pull the shaft out of the tranny. Replace the seal, and then reinstall the shaft in the opposite order.
sounds like a 10 minute job (:
On u-joints, does one simply remove the retaining clips and then drive the pin out? Of course I will be replacing u-joints at this time as well, with zirk fittings.
While the rear of the truck is up the pinion nut is 1 1/16" the seal is not too hard to remove and replace.
With a little research you may be able to borrow a tailshaft bushing removing tool from an auto store or tool rental. Otherwise the tailshaft housing has to come off.
While the rear of the truck is up the pinion nut is 1 1/16" the seal is not too hard to remove and replace.
With a little research you may be able to borrow a tailshaft bushing removing tool from an auto store or tool rental. Otherwise the tailshaft housing has to come off.
2X Kenny. DO change the tailhousing bushing. That's prolly what made the seal leak.
Keep the updates coming, as I may have this job in my future. Either that, or the oil-pan gasket is leaking... or both.
Oil-pan on a 2WD is a bitch if I don't pull the engine, right? More of a bitch than pulling the engine? (Take into consideration that I don't have a lift or chain-fall or anything else to pull the engine with.)
On the bright side, my 360 isn't burning any oil at all. Not a hint of smoke in the exhaust. So I have that going for me, which is nice.
Heck on my truck, it if has oil in it, it leaks. Rear main, oil pan, rear end. At least the radiator/cooling system is not leaking. I even have a little leak on my brand new steering gear.
I know the oil pan can be pulled without pulling the engine, according to the manual. Lift engine up after disconnecting engine mounts, lift from underneath with jack and plan 4 inch blocks between engine mount and engine.
Oil-pan on a 2WD is a bitch if I don't pull the engine, right? More of a bitch than pulling the engine? (Take into consideration that I don't have a lift or chain-fall or anything else to pull the engine with.)
you can do the oil pan with out pulling motor,
just on bolt motor mounts , use a jack to lift engine up about 4" stuff short 2x4 pieces in between frame and motor mounts ,
you will need to drop pan then remove the pick up tube for oil pump , slide pan out . i did this wasn't too hard .
