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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 11:41 AM
  #1  
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Air conditioning woes.

Need suggestions on how to make cab cooler. It's hot and humid in South Georgia.
Compressor is functioning and air coming out of vent is cold. I dont get the air velocity that I think I should.
Fan seems to be running as normal. You can hear it, but air velocity coming from vents is not very strong. if I close one vent then velocity in other three gets stronger and so forth.
I removed the glove box, removed the cover off of heater core and cleaned all of this area. some dust build up, but that much.
Do I need to change out the fan motor?
Vaccum pump seems to be functioning, vents open and close as switch is turned from AC to Heat to defrost. Is there a vaccum pressure check that can be done to verify proper function and timing?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 12:46 PM
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start with the blower motor resistor
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 05:20 PM
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Replace fan motor AND resistor. Simple and inexpensive. You can purchase both at your local parts store. Just did mine couple months ago and made a world of difference. Next for me is to trace down a slight 134a leak-down issue.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Reckless
Next for me is to trace down a slight 134a leak-down issue.

lots of luck.

if it's not too bad, maybe some red angel or cliplight will seal it.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 09:05 PM
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Dont forget the vacuum valve that can be installed to block off the hot water from the heater core thats always good for about another 10* temp drop inside. I can blow icicles with mine even in this gulf coast heat.

http://www.dieselsite.com/maxacassis...4-200373l.aspx
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 05:44 AM
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AC Woes

Thanks folks
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 05:54 AM
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That heater control block off is and awsome addition, it really drops the inside temp i would say 15 - 20 degrees, I got the coldest air for a truck, people cant believe it. I think diesel site or fiff raff has the kit.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 01:03 PM
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The auto zone part number is 74809, then you need 5' of 3/16 vacuum line and 4 clamps and one vacuum tee. The ford part number isF87Z18495-AA, its about 25.oo .
Just thought I'd post it up for you, let us know how you like it for others here.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 02:45 PM
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How does the valve work in that link posted above...it only has two hose ports and clamps. I thought you needed a quad port valve and 4 clamps to do this mod properly?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 02:48 PM
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One valve is adequate. I put a ball valve in one of the lines. That was over 10 years ago and everything is fine.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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Ok, can you elaborate? If you only block the flow at one side of the heater core, how does the water get back to the block/pump? The video I saw uses the 74809 valve from Autozone, which shuts off the flow to the heater core and routes the coolant back to the block/pump. Does it simply just need to have the flow blocked at the core and not need to circulate?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 02:58 PM
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It doesn't need to get back; the heater core is just a loop. Closing off one hose simply stops coolant from flowing through the loop, and prevents the core from getting hot.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 02:59 PM
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Thank you

Thank you very much
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 03:05 PM
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If you wanted to get fancy with the vacuum valve, you could install an air toggle switch in the line and have full manual control of it instead of having it always off with max a/c. I know there are times it's really humid and I want max a/c, but max is just too cold for me and it'd be nice to be able to temper it with a little bit of heat.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 05:09 PM
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The one I posted has four ports for both intake and outlet. It depends which vacuum line you tie into. One shuts it off even for cold air to come in, which is nice, and the other shut off max only.
 
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