Help! Rod bearing question?
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 69
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From: Kentucky
Help! Rod bearing question?
First off I'm new to internal engine work, so heres my problem. I was putting new rings and bearings in my 1985 F-150 351W and I was on the last piston, and everything was going good, then when i was bumping it back down into the cylinder the connecting-rod bolt scraped on the crank and made an indentation. So I took some fine sand paper and tried to smoothe out the dent. Then I went ahead and put the new bearing in and torqued it down to 45lbs. Before, the engine was tight with the other new rings when i rotated it, but now I cannot rotate it at all. What should i do? The crank has been turned .010 over. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 870
Likes: 1
From: Upstate NY Rochester
Help! Rod bearing question?
Sounds like your crank is out of round now. you can have it re-ground another .010 and change the bearing acordingly. I know, you'll cover those bolts with fuel line hoses nextime. Good luck....
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 439
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From: Burnsville, MN
Help! Rod bearing question?
There are probably better methods today, but I'll share some old school experience - prehaps you are already do this I don't know.
I'd always put lubriplate or white grease on all bearings and journals during the assembly process.
During crank installation, I'd just set the crank in place, hand tighten the bearing caps and tap the front and back of the crank to set the thrust bearing.
Then I'd turn it by hand to make sure there was no interference.
Durning each subsequent torque event I'd turn it again.
Now to the connecting rods-
I'd attach a piece of fuel line to each connecting rod bolt and route these around the connecting rod journal. They would then lead the connecting rod during the assembly process.
After each rod was connected, I'd turn the engine a bit to verify that I had not put a bind in the engine.
You may already be aware of these practices, or maybe the are outdated. I just wanted to share with you my way of improving confidence during the assembly process.
BTY - It has been a long time so I apologize, does anyone use plastigauge anymore, is it still made?
Best of luck to you!
I'd always put lubriplate or white grease on all bearings and journals during the assembly process.
During crank installation, I'd just set the crank in place, hand tighten the bearing caps and tap the front and back of the crank to set the thrust bearing.
Then I'd turn it by hand to make sure there was no interference.
Durning each subsequent torque event I'd turn it again.
Now to the connecting rods-
I'd attach a piece of fuel line to each connecting rod bolt and route these around the connecting rod journal. They would then lead the connecting rod during the assembly process.
After each rod was connected, I'd turn the engine a bit to verify that I had not put a bind in the engine.
You may already be aware of these practices, or maybe the are outdated. I just wanted to share with you my way of improving confidence during the assembly process.
BTY - It has been a long time so I apologize, does anyone use plastigauge anymore, is it still made?
Best of luck to you!
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Help! Rod bearing question?
Nope, those are tried and true practices still being used today. One of the things that was taught to me was when boring the block, pen the cylinder # on top of the piston, mic the piston, then bore that cylinder to the piston, never bore the block oversize and hope tolerances are good.
P.S. Who doesn't have plastiguage in there toolbox?
Yelrihseam
P.S. Who doesn't have plastiguage in there toolbox?
Yelrihseam
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: tampa bay area
Help! Rod bearing question?
It sounds like you may have put one or more of the rod caps in backwards. This is exactly what will happen if you did this. First look at all the rod caps and ensure they are matching the rods. Tang to tang is the easiest way to remember how they go. The tang is the little indentation in the bearing that fits into the rod and the cap.
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