Looking at the block sealing surfaces I can see why russrepair.com has thicker gaskets in their kit. Seems the corrosion hasn't creeped into my sealing surfaces but I can see the potential for that especially if you had a leak at the gasket. Then I think I would go with the thicker ones. The downside to thick is you'll want to get a bit more purchase on the header bolts to compress it well. If not I can see that you might want to retighten them after a while. The thin stock gasket isn't going to compress as much and probably won't loosen due to gasket compression. So do the final torque and be done.

 

I'd be afraid to re-torque the gaskets after a while--maybe the next day before refilling the coolant and oil. The thicker gaskets are not as thick as valve cover gaskets and appear to be like a felt/paper material. The gaskets I used on the oil cooler were very thin. I used a Fel-Pro gasket on a stock lift pump replacement that was thicker than the oil cooler gaskets I used from Dorman, but it all worked out so I think between the gaskets and Aviation No.3 it's plenty to keep things sealed as long as you don't have corrosion on the mating surfaces or get too crazy scraping the old gaskets off.

 

According to the diesel hub article the torque is 24 ft lbs front header and 14 ft lbs on the rear. If I'm using the thicker gasket I'd probably up those initial torques 5 or 10 percent depending on how compressible the thick ones are.

On getting gaskets off I realized that using gasket remover and soaking overnight at an average temperature of 20 degrees F is not conducive to penetrating the gasket and sealant. Try to warm up your parts to 20 degrees C. That's 70F.

 

I never had time to wait so I just sat there with my assorted plastic scrapers and then gingerly scraped the last bits with a fresh razor just about perpendicular to the surface.

 

Warming up the header made a huge difference over cold spray. Freezing temps definitely slowed me down too. Everything is clean now so begin reassembling. Small wire brushes with the extra bristles on the tip worked well on the gasket faces and essential on cleaning up the header o-ring surfaces. Maybe it's old o-ring lube and some aluminum corrosion inside the header but got it clean so the o-rings can have a good seal. I'm going to press it together later today. In case the belly press isn't enough I do have a back up plan using a jack and the deadman I beam cast into the shop foundation. Its vertically embedded 6 ft in concrete with a 1/2" steel plate welded to one end as the vice base. It over hangs enough that I can jack under it with the cooler between.

 

These are the small wire brushes that I found useful in the clean up:

 

Good luck! I hope things go back together as smoothly as they did for me. One thing I like about trying to use body weight before using a press is I feel there is a lower chance of getting things a bit crooked and then jammed up--kind of like threading lug nuts by hand at first rather than just using the impact.

 

I did watch that video posted earlier of a guy using a press. The key is keeping it straight and going slow. Let the parts come together rather than forcing. I've got the parts warming up by the fire now to make it easier to handle. The parts were 30 degrees when I brought them in this morning. At least I won't get frostbite hanging on to them like the other day.

 

Belly press wasn't doing it for me. I had the hydraulic press handy and ready to go...


Worked like a charm. Just keep it straight and go slow. Checking as you go. Fully assembled I can still rotate the headers on the bundle. Lined em up to my scribe marks that I made before disassembly.

Now the fun part...getting it on the truck!

 

Since I'm doing this solo, all advice I read said it's better to have two people, unless you are a contortionist. I think I qualify now as the cooler is installed and torqued down!

For solo contortionists, I suggest using high tack on the block side. I brushed a coat on the block and on the gasket and pressed the gaskets on tight to the block. Used one of the bolts as a line up tool. Then I coated the applied gaskets back side with aviation #3 and the headers with the same. There would have been no way for me to get that cooler back in without fouling a gasket applied to the header. I even did a dry run inserting the cooler up and close to where I could install it. Then removed it applied the sealer and snaked it in. Everything has to be positioned just right to get it up there. I checked the coat of sealer to make sure I didn't rub any off. Looked good so on to the install. I found a wooden dowel the same size as one of the rear bolts and stuck it through the bottom aft header and it was just the right size to slip into the bolt hole. That helped the rear header guide into place while I got one of the front header bolts in. Then I got a rear header bolt in and slipped the dowel out of the way, and installed all the bolts. Just like others say have an assortment of extensions and a universal is essential in my book. That does it for today. Now I can start reassembling and putting the oil and coolant back in. I saved my oil and will pour the old oil in for the leak test...

This is one of those jobs you'll be happy to do just once!

 

Yeah I did this one solo and did not apply the gaskets to the block and what I mostly remember was the feeling of amazement when I refilled everything and the lack of leaks which meant I managed not to foul a gasket. And "contortionist" is the first word I think of when doing this. Glad it went smoothly.
Maybe this time around I'll try applying the gaskets to the block first.

 

One other thing I tried, with the inner fender removed I tried to put the cooler in through there. Close but no cigar. I came up from the bottom next to the bell housing like the diesel hub article says.

 

Reassembling all the stuff I had to get out of the way. Ran into a snag getting the steering shaft installed. I attached the top first. The shaft collapses and extends but is stiff as it's a tight fit. I'm unable to pull it down onto the gearbox shaft. There is a stiff point on the extension right as it's matching up to the splined shaft. It did take some prying with a big screwdriver to get it off. Wasn't too bad getting it off. I have lubed the collapsible section. Away from the splined gearbox shaft I can extend and collapse the shaft but lined up to the splined shaft I can't get it on. What's the trick? I released the steering wheel lock in case it was keeping the splines from lining up. I have been tapping where I can. No luck.

 

I went in through the fender but my front end is lifted about 1"-2". Good to know I may need a different tack on my stock height F350.
Unfortunately I have no idea on the steering shaft. I remember everything just sliding back into place without a tight spot or any prying during removal or assembly. Maybe remove the pieces and examine for damage or bent component?

 

I don't think there is any damage. Everything does fit tightly, the splined connection at the steering box, the collapsible section and the connection to the steering column up top. Everything is snug close fitting which is good for no steering slop in those areas. I removed the bottom first and then the top as recommended in the diesel hub write up. So on the re-install I attached the top first, even thread lockered the nut. But using all my strength plus some tapping I couldn't get the bottom to slip on. So today I'm going to release the top and see if that gives me more latitude for getting the bottom on. The collapsible portion is tight and even when lubed and worked back and forth is tight. Like a near negative fit. I was also thinking the bottom connection might be a negative fit as the bolt up connection does clamp on the gear box and I did try to spread it. I think I will completely remove it. Do some more cleaning and lubrication of the slip joint, then install the bottom first. I literally wore myself out yesterday trying to push the bottom on. I tried for probably two hours to get it on. I'm sore this morning. Should have been easy as you say and believing that I kept at it until dark.