I am getting code P0456 and want to correct an obvious evap hose problem, small leak-big headbanger to find. The evap hoses from the gas tank to the canisters in the engine bay are amazingly rotted to the point that when you grab the outer casing you may as well rub charcoal on your hands.

The lines are cracked near the y-connector and at each metal tubing area that runs in the framework. I bought 10ft of replacement fuel grade hose from NAPA for $25 (it had the same inner and outer diameter so I can reuse the squeeze clamps) and have replaced all the hoses up front. The problem I have is getting to the hoses near the gas tank. I can see the hose appears to access another y connector in the frame and then it runs to the top of the tank. I waited for the code to return, and it did, to attack the rear hoses that are no doubt rotted as well. I've read that I should also replace the fuel cap for giggles and I may but haven't yet.

Ultimately,my question is how best can I get access to those two areas at the tank? Do I drop the plastic tank or remove the bed? Can I loosen the tank and lean it out of my may enough to access the fittings? I really want to rule this issue out before I have to pay for a smoke test. This code will kill me during the smog test stuff here in CA. BTW, I have 138k miles on her so while I'm there, what else should I perform PM on?

Many thanks...

 

From talking with a friend and reading here on FTE servicing a F-Series fuel pump and/or tank is most easily accomplished by removing the bed. Six or 8 bolts, one (?) wiring harness and you're ready to lift it off.

The upside to that is no muss, no fuss with the tank as mounted which sometimes means new tank straps. While not a huge expense its probably the same amount of work to just remove the bed.

Trying to lean the tank as you describe might break or damage the fill tube or the vent line for it. Good plan, just fraught with downsides avoided by removing the bed.

Hope this all goes well and clears up your problem. FWIW when state e-checks came into being it was said 85% of failures could be directly attributed to a bad gas cap. They're cheap enough so maybe just a good idea to do that too?

 

Thanks JWA for the insight about the filler tube! I guess my desire to rid the code was higher than my obvious lack of attention to detail for this task. I did buy a fuel cap today at the dealer, $26, and will give it a whirl first just to again rule out the real culprit before getting the fellas to help lift off the bed. Any clue as to what size the torx bit is that fits the bed bolts?

 

Sorry but no clue on the Torx drive size---gotta guess T60 or so? Whatever size it is make sure to use one of the hardened Torx bit sockets, not the one-piece cheaper parts like Lisle etc offers. Those are so soft and pretty much useless on a rusted bolt.

Also check to make sure that isn't a Torx PLUS fastener---there is a difference, could maybe affect removing and re-installing those bolts.

Also if you can access the threaded portion of the bed bolts hit 'em with a bit of PB Blaster etc, several times over several days. They're no doubt semi-rusty and a bit of lubrication can't hurt them coming out and going back in.