Water pump died?
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From: Salem Oregon
Water pump died?
1985 F350 with 1990 Diesel 7.3
Recently started getting some oil in coolant, slowed the oil getting into it with oil/coolant change plus oil stop leak thickeners, on rt to work a few miles onto freeway, noticed temp guage spike even to high (normally mid to low, low typically for just getting on the road). Got pulled off and vented radiator to lose over a gallon, added water back after some cooling time and made it a couple miles back towards home, accelerating and then idling in neutral kept the guage down a bit, pulled overto vent and add after cool down again before aattempting t
Recently started getting some oil in coolant, slowed the oil getting into it with oil/coolant change plus oil stop leak thickeners, on rt to work a few miles onto freeway, noticed temp guage spike even to high (normally mid to low, low typically for just getting on the road). Got pulled off and vented radiator to lose over a gallon, added water back after some cooling time and made it a couple miles back towards home, accelerating and then idling in neutral kept the guage down a bit, pulled overto vent and add after cool down again before aattempting t
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From: Salem Oregon
Engine sounds good, no smoke blowing, one reason I suspect water pump is that it was not circulating water from what I could tell.
Bits of oil/sludge I was reading to likely be worn seals on the oil cooler.
The only time the engine smokes is heavy acceleration and its consistent with unburnt fuel.
Bits of oil/sludge I was reading to likely be worn seals on the oil cooler.
The only time the engine smokes is heavy acceleration and its consistent with unburnt fuel.
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Water pumps do not usually fail by not circulating coolant, but rather by bearing and/or seal failure. It is possible in theory that the vanes could break loose from the shaft thereby stopping circulation, but I have not seen it happen yet.
The oil cooler's a good thought. And maybe your temp issue is with the thermostat or possibly a gauge problem.
Blown head gasket doesn't necessarily equal smoking engine though, it depends where it blows and what passage is leaking into what.
The oil cooler's a good thought. And maybe your temp issue is with the thermostat or possibly a gauge problem.
Blown head gasket doesn't necessarily equal smoking engine though, it depends where it blows and what passage is leaking into what.
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From: Salem Oregon
Could be the thermostat, for the final mile home after putting the last of my water bottles in to refill, I put the radiator cap on halfway so the system could relieve pressure and I would have a visual on it.
Had it spurt a couple times and the rest was dribble, if the thermostat died and shut, the pressure buildup may have caused some flow causing the spurting and then stopping.
The oil cooler, where is that and how easy/hard is it to access?
I seem to be fixing one thing after another on this truck but I hope I'm nearing the end of major repairs cause I dont want to have to buy another (really can't afford another) and have to start all over with repairs.
I hope to get the major work done on my truck so I can have confidence it will last a long time without major issues.
I'd like to put on at least 150k miles onto this truck before I need a big repair like another IP or something and have it last a good 10 more years.
Had it spurt a couple times and the rest was dribble, if the thermostat died and shut, the pressure buildup may have caused some flow causing the spurting and then stopping.
The oil cooler, where is that and how easy/hard is it to access?
I seem to be fixing one thing after another on this truck but I hope I'm nearing the end of major repairs cause I dont want to have to buy another (really can't afford another) and have to start all over with repairs.
I hope to get the major work done on my truck so I can have confidence it will last a long time without major issues.
I'd like to put on at least 150k miles onto this truck before I need a big repair like another IP or something and have it last a good 10 more years.
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From: Salem Oregon
If my understanding is correct, a water pump from a 6.9 idi will fit a 7.3 from a truck a few years later.
My father bought a water pump for his 87 E350 and never used it, got to clean off a tad bit of surface rust but its a new water pump I could install with little cost to me.
I'm at work the next 3 days on a trip and will see about getting a new thermostat to install with the water pump.
If the head gaskets are not too difficult to access, may just have to replace them for good measure.
Really want to find out how easy/hard the oil cooler is to access, looks like I will have my hands full this weekend and I would like to get as much done at the same time if possible. (I'm having to borrow family vehicles so I need my truck up and going asap as few of our family vehicles seat 5 people and one that did, the tranny is about to go)....
Thanks for the help,
Steven C.
My father bought a water pump for his 87 E350 and never used it, got to clean off a tad bit of surface rust but its a new water pump I could install with little cost to me.
I'm at work the next 3 days on a trip and will see about getting a new thermostat to install with the water pump.
If the head gaskets are not too difficult to access, may just have to replace them for good measure.
Really want to find out how easy/hard the oil cooler is to access, looks like I will have my hands full this weekend and I would like to get as much done at the same time if possible. (I'm having to borrow family vehicles so I need my truck up and going asap as few of our family vehicles seat 5 people and one that did, the tranny is about to go)....
Thanks for the help,
Steven C.
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From: Oregon
Oil in coolant screams oil cooler (large tube on driver side of engine), but could also be a head gasket depending on where it breaks through.
When running, are air bubbles coming from overflow tube into the overflow tank? When I blew a head gasket (and warped a head from the overheating on the freeway), engine ran fine, but would quickly overheat coolant, and only had a slight amount of moisture coming from the tailpipe.
Head gaskets are not fun in the truck, I did mine and upgraded to head studs, since the price wasn't far off from the new head bolts I would have needed anyway.
Spend the extra on a thermostat from a Ford or International dealership. The aftermarket part store ones are known for not functioning properly.
When running, are air bubbles coming from overflow tube into the overflow tank? When I blew a head gasket (and warped a head from the overheating on the freeway), engine ran fine, but would quickly overheat coolant, and only had a slight amount of moisture coming from the tailpipe.
Head gaskets are not fun in the truck, I did mine and upgraded to head studs, since the price wasn't far off from the new head bolts I would have needed anyway.
Spend the extra on a thermostat from a Ford or International dealership. The aftermarket part store ones are known for not functioning properly.
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From: Salem Oregon
So the oil cooler is that tube, I've seen it, been a bit though, is it something I can just remove and add a new gasket?
So head gasket is a worst case scenario and will be a pita to replace...
No bubbles that I noticed in over flow tank, will check in a few days after work trip.
I'm tending to think (and hope) its just the thermostat, each time I pulled off the hwy to vent and refill, the radiator would be filled with water with no green tint and when I vented each time, green would come out and slowly get lighter at each stop.
I have a spare radiator from the donor truck, if its still good I'll probably install it.
My temp guage works decently but I do want to replace it with an accurate temp guage.
My oil pressure guage does not really work, truck off it reads no pressure, truck on, full pressure...
Battery guage just stays in the middle all the time.
So head gasket is a worst case scenario and will be a pita to replace...
No bubbles that I noticed in over flow tank, will check in a few days after work trip.
I'm tending to think (and hope) its just the thermostat, each time I pulled off the hwy to vent and refill, the radiator would be filled with water with no green tint and when I vented each time, green would come out and slowly get lighter at each stop.
I have a spare radiator from the donor truck, if its still good I'll probably install it.
My temp guage works decently but I do want to replace it with an accurate temp guage.
My oil pressure guage does not really work, truck off it reads no pressure, truck on, full pressure...
Battery guage just stays in the middle all the time.
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From: Salem Oregon
Pulled the thermostat, put it in a pot of water at 155* and proceded to boil it, at no time did the thermostat open up.
I think it would be fairly safe to say it was just a bad thermostat.
In the engine, the coolant levels were are still nice and green, the radiator is filled with water. I hope I'm correct in thinking that because the thermostat did not open, the coolant stayed within the engine and only a couple times vented to release pressure and therefore empty my radiator.
I'm currently looking for a replacement motorcraft thermostat but since I need my truck for a quick work run, am tempted to run an off brand till the correct one comes in.
Been looking into the oil cooler, looks simpler than I was first led to believe by a friend of the family. What parts should I remove to get at and pull the oil cooler? Do I need the mounting gasket kit as well as the seal kits?
How long of a job is it usually?
Thanks,
Steven C.
I think it would be fairly safe to say it was just a bad thermostat.
In the engine, the coolant levels were are still nice and green, the radiator is filled with water. I hope I'm correct in thinking that because the thermostat did not open, the coolant stayed within the engine and only a couple times vented to release pressure and therefore empty my radiator.
I'm currently looking for a replacement motorcraft thermostat but since I need my truck for a quick work run, am tempted to run an off brand till the correct one comes in.
Been looking into the oil cooler, looks simpler than I was first led to believe by a friend of the family. What parts should I remove to get at and pull the oil cooler? Do I need the mounting gasket kit as well as the seal kits?
How long of a job is it usually?
Thanks,
Steven C.
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Sounds like you found the culprit. Beats the heck out of a head gasket too. 
I thought we had some tech info on the oil cooler, but I'm not finding it.
This thread has some good info though:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html
I thought we had some tech info on the oil cooler, but I'm not finding it.
This thread has some good info though:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html
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From: Salem Oregon
Didn't notice it a first but the stem on the thermostat punched a hole through the thermostat body....
Got the new thermostat in, an off brand with what looks like a rubber jacket around. Going to use it till I can get the motorcraft one.
Started up the truck, it warmes up, the gauge read warmer than normal with a high idle maintained, used the pressure relief valve as I opened the radiator, did not vent, coolant hot but circulating and not overflowing...
So far so good, a small drive test next, some city driving should be a good test.
Got the new thermostat in, an off brand with what looks like a rubber jacket around. Going to use it till I can get the motorcraft one.
Started up the truck, it warmes up, the gauge read warmer than normal with a high idle maintained, used the pressure relief valve as I opened the radiator, did not vent, coolant hot but circulating and not overflowing...
So far so good, a small drive test next, some city driving should be a good test.
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Is the thermostat supposed to have that rubber jacket all around it, have never seen that kind of thermostat before...
I believe I got it installed the correct way but am having second thoughts.
The way it works, it would seem to not be pass coolant as efficiently as the old style.
The drive test was okay but while the thermostat did open a bit, the flow seemed to be lacking and not cooling the truck as effectively.
I believe I got it installed the correct way but am having second thoughts.
The way it works, it would seem to not be pass coolant as efficiently as the old style.
The drive test was okay but while the thermostat did open a bit, the flow seemed to be lacking and not cooling the truck as effectively.
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From: Oregon
I'd need to see a picture as to what the differences in the thermostats are. Wish I could be more help, but the last time I did mine was 4 years ago, and it was identical to the old one (bought it from a Ford dealership).