Hey guys, and gals if appropriate, I've been an fte member for quite a while, first time to this side. I just got a 99 ranger sport. It's got a 2.5 5spd, 2wd. I'm really happy with it so far, it made right at 30mpg with the ac on when I brought it home. I've done a little fixing on it, but just wanted to know what i should look out for/do to it as far as mechanical. It's got 105k on it. I changed the oil and filter, and fuel and air filters. I was thinking of doing plugs, wires, and a timing belt this winter sometime.

Anything else I should do for upkeep? This is my new to me daily driver.

Thanks guys.

 

Congrats on the 30mpg, sounds like its been kept in good repair. Good idea to get all of its past & present due scheduled maintenance up to date, so you know where you are.

Follow Fords scheduled maintenance format, using the OEM parts & fluids, as they're designed for the vehicle & are of good quality.

The 5spd manual tranny rubber shift rail plugs on the side of the tranny, are known to dryrot, leak lube, or fall out & drain the tranny of lube, so when checking/changing the tranny lube level, or condition, do a visual on those plugs while your down there & be proactive & replace any that are leaking.

While your changing the tranny lube, flush the power steering system too, cause if it hasn't been done in the last 16 years, it needs it!!!!

It's about time for a new PCV valve & if its not been changed to date, Ford will do it at no charge the first time on the 4banger. If you have to pay for it, be prepared for sticker shock, its pricey!!!! Be sure to check its rubber elbow for dry rot cracks in the bend, or for a loose fit. Replace it along with the PCV valve if in doubt, as its a known vacuum leak source that causes all kinds of driveability mischief that's hard to run down.

Fuel filter replacement time too if it wasn't done on the 90K service & a Motorcraft fuel filter is recommended.

Consider using the specified Motorcraft fine wire iridium enhanced center electrode, with platinum pad side wire design spark plugs, as they're of good quality & the right heat range & Motorcraft plug wires, as both are designed to take the Double work load our waste spark ignition system puts on them.

As it has over 100K miles, probably time for a new upstream O2 sensor, as they age they get slow & lazy, sorta like me!!!! lol

While you are in the fluid change mode, flush the brake system with Motorcraft PM-1 DOT-3 fluid, as its of really high quality.

Follow Fords scheduled maintenance call outs on parts & fluids, for the type of service the vehicle will see & enjoy the ride. If you don't have the owners manual or maintenance guide, you can download them at no cost here. Owner Manuals | fleet.ford.com

Air up All of the tires & this includes the spare, which I'll bet you'll find low.

Some more scheduled maintenance thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

Thank you pawpaw! I appreciate the heads up on everything. I'm going new tire shopping for it thursday, fuel filter is done. It has a slight vibration in the front end which I think is a broken belt in a tire. None are real good so I'm just gonna get 4 new ones.

How would Ford or I know if the pcv has been changed? If I call them with my vin can they tell me? Why do they change it for free?

 

General Tire has a $50 rebate going on a set of 4, if your into their offerings. I just opted for a set of their Altimax HP for my Taurus, which are on clearance at Tire Rack for $55 ea, then with the $50 rebate they would be $42.50 ea, a danged steal for a H speed rated touring tire. Replaced the Michelin Harmony because of recurring belt womp, womp, which I believe to be splice problems & dryrotted sidewalls, plenty of tread remaining, but the tires just fell apart in the last year.

Had the Altimax shipped to me & had them mounted, balanced & installed at my local garage, for Way less than I could come by them at local tire stores. They are nice & quiet & smooth rolling, a Big difference!!! We've been running the Altimax HP on the wife's Neon for the past 3 years & they remade the car. They're holding up just fine, so now its the Taurus turn to try a set!!!! I've not run General truck tires, so can't speak to how they may perform.

I think Ford could tell you if they have replaced the PCV valve, by looking the vehicle VIN# up on Oasis. The 4banger 1st PCV valve replacement was due at 60K miles & other vehicles PCV valves aren't due until 120K, so I suppose the EPA pressured them to absorb the cost of replacing the first one at no additional cost because it wouldn't last the 120K. The original owner paid for it in the initial cost of the new vehicle but they didn't tell him that!!!! lol

 

Thanks again, maybe I'll call ford and see what they say.

I checked online for tires, we'll see what I come up with locally. 75 bucks to ship them isn't my cup of tea. I don't mind paying a little more locally and have them mounted and balanced right there.

 

I'd like to know how that truck got 30 mpg??? I've owned a '99 w/2.5L for 12 years, and have never gotten 30 mpg!! Even if I baby it with low shift points, 25 maybe, with a tail wind. And the gas we burn up here (ethanol crap) sucks too!! Of course, that 3.73 rear end doesn't help!! Great for getting moving in a hurry, but if it were smaller, like a 3.23, or something like that, maybe 30 wouldn't be that far off. Someone on this site recently wrote that they had a 3.53, but wasn't very happy with it. I think they said it was slow. 3.53 would be an improvement to me. Just thinkin...

 

One thing, I don't run ethanol in anything. I've always gotten less mileage with it. I don't know what I have for gears either, I haven't even checked yet. My truck is the smallest, lightest truck you can get too. It was a nice day when I drove it home, driving the speed limit with low shift points and not pushing it on hills, but the ac was on and it made right at 30. I know it won't always do that but I was happy to get it there.

 

We don't have much choice up here in the Chicago area. EVERYBODY has to sell 10% enthanol fuels. Makes the EPA happy-makes me PO'd (money sucking program that doesn't do anything but water down our fuel). Killing the gas mileage of every vehicle on the road up here. If it wasn't for ethanol, my truck would probably get at least 27 on the hiway-23 in the city. I get right around 20-22 most of the time combination driving-not so much hiway anymore. Other than that issue, I LOVE my Ranger. I owned a lot of Ford vehicles through the years, but this is like an old Timex. As long as it doesn't "tick" too loudly, I'll keep it for as long as it'll run. Still drives great-put a little work in it, but who doesn't, when you want to keep it running right. Just finished putting in a clutch and slave-good as when I first got it. If you've got questions about your Ranger, this is THE place to get them answered...

 

Ya, I plan on keeping mine as long as possible too. Working on them is part of keeping them up to par, and I like that. I'm not one to get a different vehicle very often. When I get another ford its another addition to my family!

Mine will have a lot of small town driving. I'm hoping to get 20mpg or so in town.

 

Another thought came to mind, my 99 Rangers upper & lower ball joint rubber dust boots began to show signs of dryrot cracking in only 4 years & were shot by 6 years & by 8 years the lower ball joints were history. The OEM ball joints aren't grease able either, but we can opt for ones that are & that have better quality rubber dust boots that'll last a Lot longer. In spite of what others say, the upper & lower ball joints can be replaced without replacing the upper & lower A arms if they're still tight/not worn out & there is a posting with photos on how to do it, at the bottom of this forums "Tech Info" thread, which is located atop the thread index page. Seeing as how you like to turn your own wrenches, be sure to have a look in the Tech Info thread, for links to a Wealth of other good wrench turning info.

 

When I bought my Ranger used, it was 3 years old (2002), with 47,000 miles, and putting grease zerks in the ball joints and tie rod ends was one of the first things I did. I put a small pilot mark on the joint, and used a 1/8" bit and drill a hole slowly, and when I figured it was pretty close to breaking thru, I put grease on the bit to catch the metal shavings. I stopped twice to clean off and put on new grease before it broke thru. I packed them full of grease, and would give them a couple of shots every oil change. Had that front end on there til last fall when I finally replaced upper and lowers, outer tie rod ends(still were pretty tight), and sway bar end links. Took it in for alignment, and the tech says it was really close to the specs. I spray paint all bolt and nut points with white paint to give me "witness marks", so I can put it back where it was. The sway bar end links have broken, and been replaced in that time period because they rusted thru. Drives great, and doesn't wander all over the road. Getting about time to replace shocks, though it doesn't bounce, just figure it's about time, as they've been on there about 50,000 miles. As to what PawPaw said about the upper and lowers-the lower ball joint has an aftermarket replacement you can buy at all the big box parts stores. You can pretty much knock that out yourself with a few hand tools, and "persuade". the new one to go in the same way. The upper might be a problem as you have to find the "right" replacement for your upper comtrol arm. They used different suppliers during the manufacturing process, and all '99's are not all the same in this regard. Besides the cost difference is probably at most $30 to replace the upper control arm as an assembly, to which I paid $60 or $65 a side at Oreilly's. Trying to find the "right" upper joint was not on my list, but to each his own. If you happen to get lucky in your search, your a few bucks ahead.

 

Again I appreciate all the information. I need to take a day soon and go over the whole truck real good. Really hard to find time this time of year, it may just get driven around town until winter comes, as long as my vibration leaves after the new tires.

I bought a set of hankook tires today. I'm getting them mounted and balanced tomorrow. They didn't have them in stock.

 

Got my new tires on today. My vibration is gone. I thought it was a tire, glad it was. I need some new shocks next I think.

 

Hi Pawpaw,

Do you know if the "free replacement PCV valve deal" was only for the '99 2.5L models - or did it cover additional model years?

BarnieTrk

 

Look in the questioned year Scheduled Maintenance Guide & it should say if the 4banger 60K PCV valve replacement is at no charge.