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We rebuilt my engine (400) and with that we replaced the stock distributor with an ACCEL street billet distributor with a new coil its been running fine the past few days but the other day i crank it up and when I was driving it out it went dead and would not start. It did not spark at all. We put a test light on the coil, it was getting power. The negative terminal lit up but it did not flash it just stayed lit. What is wrong? Do I have a faulty parton my ignition? The air is checked and it's fine.
The air gap is set and fine. I cranked it up, but it only ran for 5 seconds and went dead and would not spark. ALL igntion parts are new. The pro billet distributor has an internal module not that CD unit.
If the negative terminal of the coil stays solid, the module is not firing the coil. It could be the aftermarket distributor itself, or no power going to it. I'm not exactly sure what you're working with. Consider getting Accel on the phone.
WIRING When you are using your distributor without an ignition amplifier or CD type ignition unit, the 3-wire harness connects as follows: Brown Wire Negative (-) Terminal on the Coil Black Wire Engine Ground Red Wire Switched 12 Volt Source Note- Some older vehicles are equipped with a ballast resistor or a resistance wire. These cannot be used with this distributor. Bypass or eliminate the ballast resistor if your vehicle is equipped with one. To check for a resistance wire, use a voltmeter to verify that when the engine is running that the COIL POSITIVE TERMINAL reads within 1 volt of the battery voltage. If the voltage difference is more than 1 volt, the wire needs to be replaced. When bypassing a ballast resistor or eliminating a resistance wire, use at least a 14 gauge automotive grade copper wire from the COIL POSITIVE ( + ) to the starter solenoid or a switch terminal in the fuse box. Make sure that your 12-Volt source supplies voltage with the
ignition key in both with the ON (run) and START positions, but not in the ACCESSORY position.
Look up the procedure for testing the distributor. Long story short, I added a CDI box and deleted a bunch of unnecessary wires and had a nice new out of the box billet distributor and could not get the truck to fire for two days. My dad and I tried everything to figure out what was wrong, then my dad goes lets test the distributor, it was bad out of the box, brand new never been used faulty. Obviously yours ran, but doesn't mean it didn't go bad. The one thing we didn't expect to be bad was. I have a duraspark distributor now. Swap in your old distributor and see what happens. Good luck.
Did you check this? If resistive wire has not been bypassed, it's not going to work properly. Running a temporary wire from + battery to power the coil and distributor will verify.
I tested voltage from solenoid to coil +, it read 10.3 volts and the battery read 12.6 so I figure we have a problem some where. Could 10.3 volts cause the distributor to not fire?
I run the coil straight off the solenoid ignition run post, but I checked the voltage on the solenoid run post and it said 9 volts. The post that the positive battery line hooks up to reads 13 volts while running but the ignition run still reads 9 volts. How can I fix that?
You haven't described what you're working with other than to say it's an aftermarket Accel setup. Some ignition systems require a ballast resistor, some don't; those that do typically have a resistor bypass in start only. You're obviously not working with the stock Duraspark setup, so not all of that necessarily applies.
Please describe exactly what it is you're working with (part number or model name), and, in full, what is wired where. Otherwise, folks just have to guess at what you have. My initial advice was to simply get Accel on the phone rather than ask folks here to look it up for you, but you did not address that, presumably because you want us to do the troubleshooting for you. But then you need to equip us with the necessary information.
We are still trying to determine what ignition system was there before and how much you eliminated before installing the 5200 series Accel distributor .. I assumed it was the duraspark II ignition but more clarification is needed .. The directions above were for the accel 5200 series distributor when eliminating the duraspark II spark .. The Accel#110-8140HVcoil is the right choice for the 5200 series distributor so your good there .. So just a little more info
The instructions say the distributor has BROWN, BLACK, and RED wires. BROWN connects to the negative coil terminal. BLACK connects to solid ground. RED connects to hot-in-RUN and START. Note that this power source is not available under the hood easily on factory Fords. Most sources are hot-in-RUN or hot-in-START. The only exception is the coil, but it receives hot-in-RUN through a ballast resistor which can NOT be used with such an aftermarket ignition module. You have to tap upstream of the ballast resistor. There is a hot-in-RUN and START pole of the ignition switch; that is what feeds the ballast resistor. Do not connect any of this to the 'I' terminal of the starter solenoid in this case. It is hot-in-START only. The 'I' terminal is purely for the start bypass circuit when a ballast resistor is used.
The coil you listed is advertised as a points coil, with a higher primary winding resistance than what your distributor module supports. The instructions say specifically not to use such coils with primary winding resistance greater than one ohm. The instructions list several coils that are OK to use. Do not use this coil.
Notes:
Recommended electronic breakerless coils 110-140008 or 110-8140HV with 0.7Ohms or less of primary resistance
Points-style conversion female socket cap use 110-8124
and the specs on the coil are
Specifications: Primary Resistance: 0.6 Ohms
Secondary Resistance: 9.5 k Ohms
Turns Ratio: 123:1
Maximum Voltage: 45,000 volts
E.O. D-221-2 California Legal
I run this same Accel 5200 series distributor on my 390 with this coil for the last 3 years with no problems ..
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