So I've got an '82 F-150 an I'm looking to do a carb swap on it. Only problem is- do I stick with an EGR carb or can I go Non-EGR and plug the lines? In which case- how do I seal off the EGR?

 

IIRC if you go with non-EGR, you will have to buy a distributor kit and swap out springs so you don't get engine "ping". What engine are you running, and any other mods to it?

Swapped my 400 to a non-EGR setup (at the same time as intake, carb, headers) and modifying the dizzy to work with it was a major pain with a lot of trial and error.

 

Carefull! You may need to pass emissions testing and you have to comply with what is on the decal under the hood. Bypassing EGR can get you pulled off the road.

EGR has less to do with the carb, but rather the spacer plate below the carb. Why do you want to swap carbs?

 

Let's review.....exhaust is brought up to the EGR plate under a carb continually. Whether that exhaust is allowed to get past the plate and join intake fuel/air mixture is up to the EGR Valve which is connected to said EGR plate. The EGR Valve opens and closes based on vacuum which depends on what you're doing with the throttle. One can remove the EGR Valve and block off the opening with a piece of steel plate. NO more exhaust. Plug that vacuum line that went to the EGR valve. The only issue left is the engine's combustion chamber (as a function of the head). It is designed to accommodate fuel/air mixture and some exhaust gases. Never any exhaust at idle!! I never had to deal with the distributor. I never get pinging. Maybe I'm running less than ideal. I'm just happy it runs!!

 

Not even a need for a block off plate if the EGR valve is sealing as it should.
Disconnect the vacuum line and cap it.

EGR does make the mixture "richer" in cruise.
You might want to limit vacuum advance at the distributor if this is a DSII truck.

 

It's on a small block 351. I'm looking to do a carb swap on this because the throttle assembly is pretty much shot and has been sticking open on me way too much...not to mention rust. I hate rebuild kits so all I'm looking for really is like a 500-600 CFM edelbrock with a manual choke. The problem is, I can't find one with EGR that isn't like $400

 

Sorry $500. The non EGR with manual choke would cost me $309

 

EGR is not in the carb it's in the spacer beneath it.

Maybe I'm not understanding your issue?

 

When they added EGR they leaned out the mixture under light throttle cruise. The result is an increase in economy and reduction in emissions. Elimination of the EGR without adjusting the carb can cause pinging under cruise conditions. They also played around with sending the timing into the stratosphere at the same time; which will make a lean condition worse. The pinging may not be audible if it's minor, but can do damage.

So... If you're using the original carb unmodified, run the EGR. It only comes into play under part throttle cruise, so it makes no difference to performance or idle quality. It is a maintenance item but that's hardly a sound reason on it's own to eliminate it.

If you are changing carbs, then you can keep the EGR if you want and play with leaning out the light cruise for more economy or eliminate the EGR as it won't function as intended. It will work without retuning the carb however as that's how I'm running one of my trucks right now.

The ignition advance is a separate issue that when you start playing around with intakes and carbs, you may want to address. Most cars of this error, pun intended used mild initial timing with lots of centrifugal and vacuum advance. Most are set with 6-8° initial, but 10-12 is better IMO. However, you only want 36-38° total so you have to adjust the centrifugal plates to limit timing. Vacuum advance will be tuned by feel after the initial setup is complete. You want as much as you can tolerate IMO.

Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index

 

I'm stuck with only my phone for internet so I don't have all my bookmarks.
Find and read the Crane Cams instructions for their DuraSpark adjustable vacuum advance.
I know Jeg's has the pdf on their website.

 

So it would be easier to get a new carb that has the EGR capabilities instead of having to retune the whole engine? I have no problem running the stuff, I just don't know if it's necessary or not? I get that it will affect engine power and mileage (which would lead me to say keep it on). But I haven't heard many definite answers on the matter...know what I mean?

 

Its not a matter of capabilities, just jetting and springs.
If you have the tuning kit and know how to use it, NBD.

As far as working the distributor, F100 and I have given you all the information you need.

If you want to keep EGR and stock distributor it may be easier to get a carb set up for it.
But, any new carb will need some tuning.

 

Of course it will, especially since it's a 4bbl carb going on a 2bbl intake haha.....

 

a 4bbl wont go on a 2bbl intake. They sell adapater plates to mount a 2bbl onto a 4bbl intake but I've never seen one to mount a 4bbl to a 2bbl manifold.

 

They have them....

I guess that eliminates the idea of keeping EGR though.

Why not pick up a used 4V dual plane aluminum intake instead of screwing up the flow of a brand new carburetor?