trailer sway problem
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From: Sioux Falls Area
subscribing....
I'll go ahead and be the odd man out ... i don't think having too little truck is the problem.
I think it is much more likely that your hitch is not set up properly and you are still unloading the front axle too much making the truck unstable. This would explain why putting some weight in the tail of the trailer makes it more stable.
At a minimum, you need to measure your wheel well heights as suggested above. in no case should your loaded wheel well heights in the front or back be higher than your unloaded heights. if the front height increases, it is because your bars are not tight enough (unloading the front axle). if your rear height increases, it is because your bars are too tight (unloading the rear axle).
just a side note .... I don't know what you have going on there in your second pic, but i think a proper fix is in order. What you have there is probably fine for a quick trial, but i wouldn't use that as my final solution .... I would NOT feel comfortable banking my safety against what you have going on there ... just me.
I'll go ahead and be the odd man out ... i don't think having too little truck is the problem.
I think it is much more likely that your hitch is not set up properly and you are still unloading the front axle too much making the truck unstable. This would explain why putting some weight in the tail of the trailer makes it more stable.
At a minimum, you need to measure your wheel well heights as suggested above. in no case should your loaded wheel well heights in the front or back be higher than your unloaded heights. if the front height increases, it is because your bars are not tight enough (unloading the front axle). if your rear height increases, it is because your bars are too tight (unloading the rear axle).
just a side note .... I don't know what you have going on there in your second pic, but i think a proper fix is in order. What you have there is probably fine for a quick trial, but i wouldn't use that as my final solution .... I would NOT feel comfortable banking my safety against what you have going on there ... just me.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
My earlier comment about a lighter truck was not to suggest it could not be set up properly. My thought was it is a bit tougher to do than with a heavier truck as there is more weight transfer. On some of the 250s I have done the hitch work on, the tail doesn't even sag, kind of like the difference between my F150 work truck now and the last one which was a 250. When I roll my bed slide out on this one, the tail drops considerably. On the heavier truck, almost no drop at all with the same load in the bed.
Knowing the weights and the proper set-up should even things out. The trashed bolt is still a problem, however as in my mind it should never happen. Not sure what the deal is there as there are a couple of other reports of the same thing with the same set-up floating around the Internet.
I think a step-by-step approach should solve this bad boy.
Steve
Knowing the weights and the proper set-up should even things out. The trashed bolt is still a problem, however as in my mind it should never happen. Not sure what the deal is there as there are a couple of other reports of the same thing with the same set-up floating around the Internet.
I think a step-by-step approach should solve this bad boy.
Steve
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: michigan
I went with mailing the photos. Couldnt show them on phone.
Who knows, maybe I can get an engineering fee for my design repair.
Since all their models use the same bracket, They must all be moving around. They might not all sway but I think they all move.
I think a larger frame bracket like mine, and spreading the studs would do it (less bolt hole clearance also). And after snapping a stud already I think a thru bolt from the L bracket thru the frame bracket would be a great safety feature
Who knows, maybe I can get an engineering fee for my design repair.
Since all their models use the same bracket, They must all be moving around. They might not all sway but I think they all move.
I think a larger frame bracket like mine, and spreading the studs would do it (less bolt hole clearance also). And after snapping a stud already I think a thru bolt from the L bracket thru the frame bracket would be a great safety feature
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: michigan
Move to maintain alignment?
Spring bars supposed to slide across L bracket. Its friction suppossed to be sway control. You discussing a different movement????
I have located some Michelin 275 65r18's load e, in 18inch for the truck. Sound good? Only $35 more then stock wranglers
current age rotten trailer tires, are st225r15 load range d. Somewhere else at this forum I saw st is only rated 65mph. 65?
Not that I'm planning on 90mph but I think I'd feel better with a higher rating.
I got my first soc sec check thursday and I can afford tires now. No gas to go anywhere but I can buy tirs.
Spring bars supposed to slide across L bracket. Its friction suppossed to be sway control. You discussing a different movement????
I have located some Michelin 275 65r18's load e, in 18inch for the truck. Sound good? Only $35 more then stock wranglers
current age rotten trailer tires, are st225r15 load range d. Somewhere else at this forum I saw st is only rated 65mph. 65?
Not that I'm planning on 90mph but I think I'd feel better with a higher rating.
I got my first soc sec check thursday and I can afford tires now. No gas to go anywhere but I can buy tirs.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
Move to maintain alignment?
Spring bars supposed to slide across L bracket. Its friction suppossed to be sway control. You discussing a different movement????
I have located some Michelin 275 65r18's load e, in 18inch for the truck. Sound good? Only $35 more then stock wranglers
current age rotten trailer tires, are st225r15 load range d. Somewhere else at this forum I saw st is only rated 65mph. 65?
Not that I'm planning on 90mph but I think I'd feel better with a higher rating.
I got my first soc sec check thursday and I can afford tires now. No gas to go anywhere but I can buy tirs.
Spring bars supposed to slide across L bracket. Its friction suppossed to be sway control. You discussing a different movement????
I have located some Michelin 275 65r18's load e, in 18inch for the truck. Sound good? Only $35 more then stock wranglers
current age rotten trailer tires, are st225r15 load range d. Somewhere else at this forum I saw st is only rated 65mph. 65?
Not that I'm planning on 90mph but I think I'd feel better with a higher rating.
I got my first soc sec check thursday and I can afford tires now. No gas to go anywhere but I can buy tirs.
Steve
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 219
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From: michigan
I know I can't/shouldn't run trailer tirres on cars n trucks. Any reason I shouldn't look for LT tires in 15" lr E
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Sioux Falls Area
lots of people run LT's on their trailers and are very happy with them.
not all ST tires are rated at 65mph anymore, but you have to be careful to find the ones with higher ratings (or stumble into them).
here's a reasonably priced LRD ST tire rated to 87mph:
Tire Details - Discount Tire Direct
they are out there, but you have to look at the load index. the one above is rated as a 113N, indicating the speed rating. if it is not stated, then assume 65mph.
as to LT tires on the truck, they may help, but i doubt very much that they will be the solution to your stability problem.
if a trip to the scales is not possible, measure your wheel wells, hook it up like you normally would, then re-measure and report back. that would give us some sort of clue how to help.... outside of that, we are all guessing. the scales would be best.
the ball's kind of in your court at this point
not all ST tires are rated at 65mph anymore, but you have to be careful to find the ones with higher ratings (or stumble into them).
here's a reasonably priced LRD ST tire rated to 87mph:
Tire Details - Discount Tire Direct
they are out there, but you have to look at the load index. the one above is rated as a 113N, indicating the speed rating. if it is not stated, then assume 65mph.
as to LT tires on the truck, they may help, but i doubt very much that they will be the solution to your stability problem.
if a trip to the scales is not possible, measure your wheel wells, hook it up like you normally would, then re-measure and report back. that would give us some sort of clue how to help.... outside of that, we are all guessing. the scales would be best.
the ball's kind of in your court at this point
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: michigan
wednesday morning, belle tire putting on st235/75r15 10e super trail. Supposedly rated for 85mph
Then I'm visiting local grain scale. Its big enough to do semi trailer and tractor at same time. But they claim they'll add and subtract as I drive on and off and get something close
I'll also get the chance to see if restricting bracket movement with my plate helps sway problem. Taking freeway to and from tire store
Then I'm visiting local grain scale. Its big enough to do semi trailer and tractor at same time. But they claim they'll add and subtract as I drive on and off and get something close
I'll also get the chance to see if restricting bracket movement with my plate helps sway problem. Taking freeway to and from tire store
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 5
From: Stillwater, OK
For what it's worth, the Equal-I-zer on my 31' travel trailer does not do this. It works just fine at distributing the load on my F250 and eliminating sway. Crosswinds generally push the pickup and trailer as a single unit.
the Equal-I-zer with the Ford Tow Command brake controller make for a very enjoyable drive.
the Equal-I-zer with the Ford Tow Command brake controller make for a very enjoyable drive.
New User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 6
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From: I live in Winder, Georgia
Trailer Sway
I pull a 29 foot Outback trailer with my 2010 F-150 with a 5.4 engine. The truck is factory equipped HD trailer tow package. It is a Super Cab truck. The trailer weighs around 6000#, with a 750# tongue weight. My equalizer bars are rated at 800#. I have to fasten my bars just as I get the latch forward on the ball, or they are very difficult to fasten. My truck and trailer are nearly level when travelling. I get no sway unless it very windy. I do not use a anti-sway device. Swaying is usually caused by not enough tongue weight. In your case, it looks as though your distribution device has been either home made or modified from the looks of the welding. A trailer dealer can usually set you up properly since the hitch angle and height come into play as well. Good luck.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
I pull a 29 foot Outback trailer with my 2010 F-150 with a 5.4 engine. The truck is factory equipped HD trailer tow package. It is a Super Cab truck. The trailer weighs around 6000#, with a 750# tongue weight. My equalizer bars are rated at 800#. I have to fasten my bars just as I get the latch forward on the ball, or they are very difficult to fasten. My truck and trailer are nearly level when travelling. I get no sway unless it very windy. I do not use a anti-sway device. Swaying is usually caused by not enough tongue weight. In your case, it looks as though your distribution device has been either home made or modified from the looks of the welding. A trailer dealer can usually set you up properly since the hitch angle and height come into play as well. Good luck.
Steve
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 219
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From: michigan
For what it's worth, the Equal-I-zer on my 31' travel trailer does not do this. It works just fine at distributing the load on my F250 and eliminating sway. Crosswinds generally push the pickup and trailer as a single unit.
the Equal-I-zer with the Ford Tow Command brake controller make for a very enjoyable drive.
the Equal-I-zer with the Ford Tow Command brake controller make for a very enjoyable drive.
Errr um, my lousy welding is only a wrap around thing to restrict movement which texasrebel deny's having. Maybe I have more lift bar friction on the L bracket then he does. My 150 probably needed more lift help.
I'll have to try a straight down look showing NO physical connection to original bracket.
My 2" slot slips right over their 2" L bracket.
Barely
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Senior User
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From: michigan