my 300 is missing



What happens when the trans is already out, the motor mounts are loosened, and the exhaust pipe is unbolted?



I was standing under the truck taking off the exhaust pipe, when that happened. Trust me, it'll make the heart skip a beat......... or 3 (hundred).

I may or may not have peed. The world will never know.
That last part was a joke.
Forklift makes a great engine hoist. Ours has a hole torched thru one fork, so we can put a trailer ball on it. Chains/cables/straps won't slip off the end that way.......
Forklift makes a great engine hoist. Ours has a hole torched thru one fork, so we can put a trailer ball on it. Chains/cables/straps won't slip off the end that way.......
The SUV had been wrecked we took out the radiator and pretty much the rest of the front end...not so tight a squeeze then.
It still ran good, had good oil pressure, no smoke, and no oil consumption. But, it had a rather ominous sounding rattle in the piston skirt/wrist pin area.
Replacing it with this.

I6 trumps V8 for a truck, due to the torque output at lower RPM.
Diesel trumps gasoline (petrol, for the non USA folks) engines.
The 300 is one of the greatest engines ever put in a pickup, in the petrol dept. And, the Cummins is one of the greatest engines ever, period.
I am one of those "wierd" types of people, not only can I deal with gas or diesel, but I even fully understand the quirky rotary engine.....
Gotta give respect to those "mad" Germans, who designed engines that are fully capable of running on "alternative fuel". The diesel was originally designed to run on peanut oil, and the rotary has been capable of running on pure hydrogen (and has been doing so for 5+ years in Japan).
Funny thing, both were designed long before the term "alternative fuel" came along.........
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Keep us posted on your work and your plans
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Front suspension is easy, just add stiffer springs, already done. I have a truck that uses king pins, rather than ball joints, so the rest of the suspension is capable of handling the ~300 LBS additional weight of the engine/trans. Many people have added that much, or more, weight in the form of front bumper/winch, which sits on the end of the frame. My additional weight will mostly be sitting right over the crossmember, resulting in less leverage on the frame.
Trans is a 5 speed manual, from a 2wd 97 dodge truck. Rear axle is the old ford 9", which is more than capable of handling the stock output of this engine, 160HP/400TQ.
I am familiar with the WWII era multi-fuel diesel engines. Back in the early 70's, my father built a wrecker from an old army truck, which had a continental multi fuel engine. Could run on almost any liquid that could burn, but ran best on diesel fuel.
I have a 77 F150 4X4 that I'm rebuilding and use as my hobby truck, as in going camping and fishing in.
Best of luck on your modification. I will be watching for updates on it.
Having worked on all of the offerings, the Cummins has proved to be the most dependable and cheapest to keep up, especially the older mechanical injection versions.
My plan is rather simple, yet elegant in it's own way. I will be using as many factory dodge or ford parts as possible, so replacements are easier to locate down the road. I'll just have to keep a list of what parts came what year/make, so I can walk into almost any parts house to get what is needed........
The driveshaft is the area that may pose a minor glitch in that plan. I'm not sure if a 9" pinion yoke is available that uses the same size u-joint that the NV4500 slip yoke uses.
What year Ford truck are you working on and what do plan on doing with it? I've seen some pretty slick homemade trucks out there
What I plan to do with it, drive it like I have for the last ~16.5 years. Most often, just plain transportation, with occasional light hauling or towing, generally in the 3500 LB trailer weight range.
It's been kinda on hold while I gathered up a few more needed items, like the manual trans pedal set and steering column, along with other stuff.
Last weekend, I took the air intake tube that runs from the turbo to the intake of the engine, and the valve covers, to a friend's for cleaning and powdercoating. Turned out quite nice.
This weekend, I have been working on converting the cab to manual trans, with hydraulic clutch. Got the old pedal assembly out, and the column. Fitted the firewall reinforcement plate that is usually only needed for repairing a damaged firewall, but I want to make sure the sheetmetal never has a chance to flex and crack around the clutch master cyl.
Got the holes for the clutch master drilled and test fitted a master.
I stopped there yesterday, after only a couple hours. I got a later start than I wanted to.
I hope to get the carpet flopped over today, so I can cut out the top of the trans tunnel for the bolt in cover that goes over a manual trans.
Carpet in the truck is not factory, in fact, it's not even automotive carpet. I may just remove it, and replace it with new later. The rubber floor mat is still there, under the carpet, and likely hasn't seen the light of day in over 30 years.
A few pics. Not the greatest, but at least I remembered to pause long enough to take them......
Powder coated stuff
Auto and manual pedal assemblies
Auto column and manual tilt column
Most of the auto trans stuff removed
Under hood shot showing the clutch master holes
Inside view of the new clutch master holes






