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I am converting to a dual master cylinder (finally after 2 years). When I removed the MC the studs were not really studs and began tot turn in their holes. With determination and air ratchet, the MC is off. The bolts do not go through the firewall or the pedal assembly. Is this correct?
My first thought was to epoxy the studs from the outside to hold them for tightening. Should I remove the engine side mount and drill the firewall and pedal bracket and run the bolts through all three? I am likely to replace the MC again in a disk upgrade sometime in the future.
Welding should not be necessary and makes it a little more difficult to replace those screws should the need arise.
Some ideas:
Run a thread restoring tap and die onto those screws and nuts to ensure that the threads are good. Bad threads can make the nut difficult to turn, which can cause the screw to rotate.
Make sure those 4 bolts are tight.
Remove the plate and make sure there is no foreign material between it and the firewall. While you have it off, check the depth of the screw in the plate. If it is below the surface then it probably won't be held tightly. However, you can use a screwdriver and wrench to fasten the master cylinder to the plate and then mount the assembly to the firewall.
See that round knock out at the top and center in the firewall, grind the plate so there is clearance which allows it to sit flush against the firewall.
Slotted counter sunk screws sounds light duty for something made to be stomped on.
I think removing the plate is the best option. The lower screws have paint/rust proofing on them so they will be challenge to clean before removing. I did not want to deal with supporting the pedal assembly but that is looking like the better option. I can check the condition of the fire wall and paint it. I am still thinking drilling the firewall and pedal assembly to allow a bolt to go through all 3 is a good idea.
