Here is a link to the nipple repair. I added to it after I did mine. Looks like it is good to go now.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ow-nipple.html

 

And now back to exhaust work.
The victim was my 1995 crew cab, 7.3 with automatic transmission.

Having a helping hand would be a big bonus. I did this on my own.

The pass through socket set I had worked very nicely for removing the downpipe clamp as well as being able to get into some tight spots where the other ratchet and socket wouldn't go. You will also need an extention and deep well 9/16 socket to tighten the swivel joint. The 1/2 drive ratchet and socket was for really tightening down the fittings it could reach. I also used a pry bar and some wood stock for prying and shimming into place before tightening. The pic tool was for removing the old pipe hanger rods from the rubber mounts.


This is the kit from Diamond Eye Performance. This is the turbo back with catalytic delete, in stainless steel. Lousy packing I think but it was all in there. The included directions were very correct.






Then out with the old and a little comparrison to the stock size pipe I removed. A pair of vise grips clamped onto the down pipe gives you a little more pulling power when twisting the unit out.



I tried to pull the muffler and tailpipe out in one piece but could not get it over the axle so I cut the tailpipe off after the hump.


The bracket on the left in this picture is the old Catalytic converter bracket. Remove this so you can get the exhaust to sit higher up under the truck . This also allowed for way more clearance on the transmission lines in the vicinity.


I sliced the firewall seam with the sawsall by making a few cuts straight into the seam the bending the metal up out of the way. You will need a 9" blade minimum to do the removal and firewall mods.


After I got it all in ( follow the directions included with the kit) it was just a matter of tweaking the pipes and clamps to clear every thing . Using a couple of jack stands helped greatly when installing the new pipes.
The end result was very satisfying. I probably spent about 7 or 8 hours on it total. half of that was trying to get the downpipe cut and removed. The rest is a a breeze. Directions were excellent.


You should probably go ahead and cut off that little bit of fuel tank strap that goes past the frame mount. I didn't but will most likely go back in and remove it as it is right against the pipe after the rear axle.


It just barely cleared my receiver hitch frame.


This system sounds great. It is much quieter the the original and sounds good when getting on the throttle. Much quieter than I expected which was a bonus as I didn't want it to be loud.

Using a 3" band clamp on the two piece downpipe joint would of made that a lot cleaner in that little hole. Also a 4" band clamp back by the gas tank strap would of been nice. Using 2 more band clamps where there are just regular pipe clamps in the catilytic converter area would of cleaned it up even more. I just used what came in the kit. The pipe hangers are attached to the other clamps so unless you re-weld the hangers on the pipe you need to use theirs.

All in all I would highly recommend this system. I believe it was $324 well spent.

Next I will get the 6637 filter installed. I have the filter just need a connector pipe for it.

 

Today it went for a drive. I wished I had done this a lot sooner. It's like having a different truck.
This truck is ready for its cross country voyage now. Got a few little items to do then off we go. I'll see how much I like this system after 3 or 4000 miles.
This is how I was today driving this >>>>>

 

if you took the muffler out you would get a little more umph outta it, and also a little better mileage. it cant breathe out properly. diesels need lots of air in and out. the more the better.

 

Went from 12mpg to 21 mpg.

4 inch exhaust
6637 air filter
oil change with prolong
partial tranny change with prolong

Truck is doing great with 1800 miles on this trip so far

 

Got 15mpg today at 75mph heading across Nebraska. Not bad for 4:10gears

 

21 miles per gallon with 4:10 gears? No way

 

Going from Limon, CO down through Colorado Springs and across to Ouray, CO that is what it got. Most of that driving was at 60 mph. 25 miles of it with the over drive off going up and over Monarch Pass. I t did the same the next day going up the San Miguel River Canyon.
I can run at 75/80 mph and get the same mileage as what I got at 60 mph.

I always fill up at Mt. Vernon , IL on my way out west. I have to stop in Topeka,KS for fuel again. Usually I put the 5 gal jerry can I carry in and barely make it to Topeka. This year I had about 9 gallons left in the tanks and never touched the jerry can. I was even running 75/80 instead of my usual 65/70 mph.

 

Were you towing/hauling on this trip? That is a huge jump in MPG.

 

Truck was packed just like the previous 2 years. No trailer just 2 weeks of supplies in the back cap.
The only other difference was weather. It was 10-15 degrees cooler and the wind was nowhere as hard driving as usual but it was still there. The gains I have seen though are quite huge. I can run 80mph and still get what I used to get at 65mph. Driving my normal 70 mph has gained about 10 - 12 gallons between fueling sites which are 388 miles apart.

 

First - let me say thanks for the OUTSTANDING photos!

I'll be swapping a motor in and planned to do the Diamond Eye straight 4" stainless system with the 3" down pipe at the same time - your photos make it easy to know where and how much firewall relief I need. Looks like a pair of bolt cutters and hand sledge hammer should make short & simple work of the job while the engine is out.

PS for the community - Summit has the 3" down pipe and 4" straight stainless system for under $300 and free shipping

 

You'll be able to make the clearance for the pipe easily then before you drop in the new motor. I would go with a one piece downpipe then just for a cleaner run. Getting that clamp up in there can be a pain.

I'll be getting a good look at my job from the inside soon as I'm gutting the cab for new carpet and interior.
I also brought home a complete donor cab assembly this past weekend so I also have a clear view of what it looks like from engine compartment now.

Let me know if you need pics of it for anything.

 

Howdy Hoot! looks like we may be neighbors!

I recently migrated to the dark side and adopted a neglected 7.3 Powerstroke, and the inherent learning curve.

Brief historical info, - I found a clearly neglected 97 OBS Shortbed, Supercab, Powerstroke and manual tranny. 190,000 on the clock. Truck has been
wrecked, looks like drivers side of the truck had damage - the hood is from a 7.5 gas motor and the gas doors on the bed say gasoline. The vin is a over 8500 GVWR Diesel. frame & mounts look un-bent.

Truck needed pads, shoes. rotors, and drums all around - had a bad universal on the right front.

Still need tires.

Truck has stream of oil vapor puffing from the crankcase thru the oil fill.

Ignition key locked up and quit working. (Looks like PO used a non Ford replacement ignition cylinder - I compared to Ford unit and mine had visual differences from Ford unit) And only $80 and it fixed the issue.

Fuel filter, water in fuel and ABS dashlights all seem to go off and on in a rhythmic symphony. I replaced Fuel filter - it got the light to go off, for a little while.

Oil consumption seems to be consistent in the 60-mile per qt range. -(I've had 2 cycle race engines that burned less oil!)

Generally fuel consumption has been in the 10-12 MGP range - but I did a quick test the last time out and averaged 20MPG over 60 mile trip in town. (sup with dat?) NOW she runs right? - still burned over a qt of oil.
The puffs of vapor from the crankcase indicate a single cylinder with bad rings or broken piston, to me anyway.

At 190,000 miles - it's a safe bet the engine would benefit from injectors, but it looks like that's about $2000 in parts plus the install and that is about 1/2 what a complete drop in reman engine would cost. Ok maybe 1/3 with install and extra parts etc.

So that's where I'm at - and the last drive that netted 20 MPG has completely messed my confidence. Prior it was consistant 11-12-ish. Combined with the oil consumption - I was sure the engine was shot.

I'm wondering if I didn't get the tank full last time. that would explain a lot and make me feel better about that engine I just bought.

I'll be back with ---- wellllll I don't know with what,,,,,,,, yet.

Late edit - back to 12MPG - or worse must have had a bubble burp in the tank on the short fill.

 

where you from?
I'm up near Cincinnati,Ohio

I just bought an after market key switch assembly for mine yesterday. My 2 year old Motorcraft switch failed miserably. I am currently manually starting it with the ignition switch.

I bought my truck just as a temporary thing until I got moved. Then fell in love with it and use it as a daily driver now.
Mine was no where as abused as yours. It was just semi- neglected and I'm slowly trying to erase the previous owners finger print on it. The fuel mileage gains still baffle me but it is holding true still. I was hoping to run to North Carolina this weekend but that is looking bleak now. I have some serious work to do on my Jeep and the weather will be nice and cool for once.
I'm so ticked off over the Motorcraft switch failing. $92 for the switch $40 for them to key match my truck and $50 to install. 2 years is way too short. $50 to install was way too much. I was ignorant to how simple of a task it is to replace at the time. $92 is also too much for that switch , Amazon has it for $76. If nothing else the after market one should get me mobile again.

 

Denver's home. As strange as it has become.