1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

New project...one I have wanted since forever

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #46  
Old 07-30-2015, 01:46 PM
CharlieLed's Avatar
CharlieLed
CharlieLed is offline
Lead Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Brentwood, TN
Posts: 7,867
Received 467 Likes on 303 Posts
There are differing opinions on "flowcoating", that is, sanding and spraying another coat(s) of clear to cut down on cutting and buffing. Personally I like the technique and use it whenever possible. This 40 has three coats of HOK USC01 clear on it as it sits in the photos...this is just as it was shot out of the gun. I will completely block sand the body with 800 grit and shoot another 3 coats of clear over it. Here is why I like this...I shoot in my home garage, not a professional spray booth, so there is some amount of crap that gets into the paint. This job was done when it was fairly warm and I actually got a few drops of sweat that fell into the paint as well. Even if it were done in a booth there are always some nibs and whatnot that need to be sanded/buffed out. When I make the clear coating a 2-step process it gives me a break between the clear coats to clean up the surface and to assess any other oversights that I may have missed. I am also able to block out the edges of the body to ensure that the body lines remain sharp...I hate to see paint jobs that have "rolled" edges and body lines. That said, even after a second pass at the clear coat I will still color sand and buff...I don't like orange peal so I am willing to spend the effort. Flowcoating will give you a smoother finish and it will make the colorsanding process easier, so either way you are ahead.
 
  #47  
Old 07-30-2015, 02:27 PM
c91x's Avatar
c91x
c91x is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 387
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Yeah I always thin out my last pass with clear but still end up with some orange peel (i think everyone does). I shoot in my garage too and always end up with some trash in the clear no matter how much i prep the area. As I am sure you know once you sand and buff it out the dirt/bug/whatever is gone or not noticeable.
 
  #48  
Old 07-30-2015, 05:25 PM
schoo's Avatar
schoo
schoo is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: placer county usa?
Posts: 4,332
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Originally Posted by CharlieLed
There are differing opinions on "flowcoating", that is, sanding and spraying another coat(s) of clear to cut down on cutting and buffing. Personally I like the technique and use it whenever possible. This 40 has three coats of HOK USC01 clear on it as it sits in the photos...this is just as it was shot out of the gun. I will completely block sand the body with 800 grit and shoot another 3 coats of clear over it. Here is why I like this...I shoot in my home garage, not a professional spray booth, so there is some amount of crap that gets into the paint. This job was done when it was fairly warm and I actually got a few drops of sweat that fell into the paint as well. Even if it were done in a booth there are always some nibs and whatnot that need to be sanded/buffed out. When I make the clear coating a 2-step process it gives me a break between the clear coats to clean up the surface and to assess any other oversights that I may have missed. I am also able to block out the edges of the body to ensure that the body lines remain sharp...I hate to see paint jobs that have "rolled" edges and body lines. That said, even after a second pass at the clear coat I will still color sand and buff...I don't like orange peal so I am willing to spend the effort. Flowcoating will give you a smoother finish and it will make the colorsanding process easier, so either way you are ahead.
What kind of time for drying or is it hard
 
  #49  
Old 07-30-2015, 07:06 PM
HILLBILLY BOB's Avatar
HILLBILLY BOB
HILLBILLY BOB is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: HUDSON, FL
Posts: 1,522
Received 19 Likes on 13 Posts
i am still myself for selling my 40 ford coupe, i was given $16,000 more than i paid for it some banker wanted it for his collection,i still miss it
 
  #50  
Old 07-31-2015, 10:55 AM
Jafo56's Avatar
Jafo56
Jafo56 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Lancaster county, PA
Posts: 1,291
Likes: 0
Received 45 Likes on 21 Posts
Wow!!! Sweet I would love to have one! Congrats!!!.......as a matter of fact I would love to have a lot of old cars and trucks
 
  #51  
Old 07-31-2015, 11:09 AM
CharlieLed's Avatar
CharlieLed
CharlieLed is offline
Lead Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Brentwood, TN
Posts: 7,867
Received 467 Likes on 303 Posts
Originally Posted by schoo
What kind of time for drying or is it hard
The USC01 is dry to the touch in about an hour...you could still press a fingerprint into it at that time, but it is impervious to dust and bugs by that point. I usually wait a couple of hours and then roll it our into the sun to bake for awhile. The warmer and drier the air, the faster the gas-out/dry time. The next day the finish is ready to colorsand or recoat, but I usually wait at least 48 hours to give the paint time to more fully cure. With this car it will sit until sometime after the 20th before I sand and recoat just because I have other things going on now.
 
  #52  
Old 07-31-2015, 11:13 AM
schoo's Avatar
schoo
schoo is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: placer county usa?
Posts: 4,332
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Thanks Charlie it is a beautiful car
 
  #53  
Old 11-25-2023, 09:26 PM
tacson's Avatar
tacson
tacson is offline
Cargo Master

Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
Posts: 2,451
Received 88 Likes on 51 Posts
Doing some reminiscing Chuck. Car was beautiful then and even more so today. Gonna be a nice cruiser when you are done. Maybe I can call Shotgun for a ride down I-65 to the ALABAMA state line and back to Middle Tennessee
 
  #54  
Old 11-25-2023, 09:34 PM
CharlieLed's Avatar
CharlieLed
CharlieLed is offline
Lead Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Brentwood, TN
Posts: 7,867
Received 467 Likes on 303 Posts
You got it Donald! Maybe I can get the 56 sheetmetal out to Mike for paint this winter and free up some space in the garage to get the 40 finished up.


 
The following 3 users liked this post by CharlieLed:
  #55  
Old 11-25-2023, 09:55 PM
tacson's Avatar
tacson
tacson is offline
Cargo Master

Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
Posts: 2,451
Received 88 Likes on 51 Posts
Originally Posted by CharlieLed
You got it Donald! Maybe I can get the 56 sheetmetal out to Mike for paint this winter and free up some space in the garage to get the 40 finished up.

Sounds good. She's a beauty and setup real nice.

 
  #56  
Old 11-26-2023, 09:14 PM
jerry_s's Avatar
jerry_s
jerry_s is offline
Tuned
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by CharlieLed
You got it Donald! Maybe I can get the 56 sheetmetal out to Mike for paint this winter and free up some space in the garage to get the 40 finished up.

That's looking great Chuck! I'm still waiting on my truck...I'm starting to think I should take it to a different shop at this point...
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Old Hickory
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
11-07-2016 10:35 AM
customtronic
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
11
03-21-2016 11:28 AM
Happy Hooligan
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
9
01-31-2014 07:28 PM
JDMick
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
54
01-21-2006 11:13 AM



Quick Reply: New project...one I have wanted since forever



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:56 PM.