Where can I get a complete set of polyurethane cab bushings for my 1970 2WD? By complete I mean including sleeves, washers and bolts. The only complete kits I can find have rubber bushings, and the poly bushing kits I find don't come with any hardware. I doubt that I can re-use my sleeves, from what I read on here you have to cut them in two to get them out.

 

Jeez... either you're picky or don't want to parse the purchase...What gives? Bushings and bolts/nuts typically come separate.

Daystar, Energy Suspension, Prothane for bushings.

Hardware... I suggest National Parts Depot.

 

I'm skeptical about buying parts from two different companies and having them work together. Is it really too much to expect a manufacturer to offer hardware with a poly kit, especially since the original hardware will most likely be destroyed during removal? Has anyone on here replaced their bushings with polyurethane? Part numbers would be most helpful.

 

Ah.. OK. I get it. I think your skepticism in this particular case will be unfounded.

Part numbers? Really? Time for ya to order up some catalogs from Jeff's Bronco Graveyaard, National Parts Depot, LMC Truck, and Mac's Antique Auto Parts. Or surf over to their websites on this here internet. Yes... it's time for you to do your own homework.

 

You have to but one set with the metal sleeves and another with the poly. This is for a 4x4 truck so double check cause I dont remember if they were interchangeable.

LMC...40-0500
Summit...ENS-4-4104G

The poly's work on the stock replacement hardware...no problems.

HIO...I just had them handy

 

Here's what I got on NPDs site, searching 1948-79 Ford truck catalog;

"Sorry, there are no products matching your selection."

I entered that part number in LMCs site and got this;

"0 results for 40-0500."

4x4 bushings are different than 4x2.

 

Slight correction to my last post, 4x4 F100 bushings may be the same as 4x2, I think it's the highboys that were different.

 

IMHO, the part numbers for poly are Moot Point. Do you really want rock hard bushings there? No rubber to absorb road bumps etc.

 

I would check out summit racing, they pull parts from a couple of different manufacturers. So does Jegs and most of the time they are a little cheaper!

 

If your going to add a cab o/camper then you'll be ok.
The weight of it won't wear out the bushing like oem.

It helps to ease the ride if you spray your rear springs with a lube anything from wd-40 & a bike chain lube that works
in between the leafs and get more of a relaxed spring ride versus dry rusty stiff ride.

It's not to bad running just poly spring eye bushing, just don't add the body mount poly with while running the poly spring eye bushing as like Jeff say pretty ridge..
orich

 

Well it turns out my skepticism about different manufacturer's parts working together was 100% correct, poly bushings from one source don't work with hardware from somewhere else. Here's a pic of a new poly bushing with LMC hardware, see a problem?
You could almost fit two aftermarket sleeves in there.
Aftermarket on left, factory on right.
Factory sleeve in new poly bushing, why don't they supply these with the kit?
So here's the lowdown for anybody else considering this, if you want to use poly bushings, you have to reuse your factory hardware. I was under the impression that you had to destroy your old hardware to get the old bushings out, but that's not the case. The sleeves can be separated and reused. The only hardware I didn't reuse were the 2 bolts for the core support, they were very rusty and I replaced them with stainless.

 

It's a 45 year old truck, I don't expect it to ride like a new car, plus it's not my daily driver. I wanted bushings that held the cab in the same place relative to the transmission, the original rubber bushings had somewhat collapsed and it was giving me fits with a 3-speed on the column that was impossible to adjust. Rubber bushings may be ok with a 4 speed or automatic, but on a 3 speed, a little bit of cab misalignment screws up the whole system.

 

I found all nos cab bushing washers and remove all the LMC Crap
Still a lot on ebay from to, to time.

Orich

 

WD-40, and the like, is probably fine on the metal-to-metal surfaces of the leafs but, I wouldn't spray it on the bushings.

Back in the early '80s, when I was much younger and dumber, I sprayed all the rubber suspension bushings on my '68 Mustang with WD-40. --that car was my daily driver back then. It didn't take long before it swelled and cracked the bushings.

The hard lesson learned here, DON'T spray rubber bushings with WD-40. Use a silicone spray lubricant if you're going to lubricate them.

For that matter, it would be best not to use WD-40 on polyurethane either. They need synthetic grease.

 

I understand what you're saying but, I, personally, would rather have polyurethane if I was going to the trouble of replacing the cab mounts and I'll give you an example of why I say that.

The OP mentioned saggy cab mounts being a problem with linkage bind in a truck with a column shift manual transmission.

It's not just a problem on them. It's a problem with an automatic column too.

My rear cab mounts (2WD truck) are somewhat compressed. This lets the rear of the cab drop down, which pitches the front of the cab upward. This upward pitch also raises the end of the column upwards, where it connects to the steering gear box input shaft.

This upward arc of the column was placing a strain on my old '69 fixed steering column --enough so that the pressure of the misalignment desintegrated the lower column bearing. The steering shaft was gringing against the open end of the column tube and the tube was sawing a groove into the steering shaft!

I don't think the rubber bushings would really offer much cushion, compared to polyurethane but, I would rather have solid bushings that won't deteriorate and compress vs. softer rubber bushings that will eventually repeat this process.