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hi need some help. i have a 1999 georgie boy 35' class a motor hame with 6.8 v10 36,000 miles had a bad battery at a rv park i got a rebuilt battery only option i had to get me home when i tried to start the engine the negitive cable on my house battery melted. after much checking found the rebuilt battery charged reversed pos is neg ect. my son has brought a new battery and i have repaired the house battery connection. now have no start no crank checked all fuses and they are good both with test light and small vom i have. i have limited tools and need a wiring diagram for starter circuit. check engine light comes on and dash warning lights operate. don't find any sign of burnt wiring any where .any outher suggestions would be apprecated. i am a retired master mechanic.
thanks
Just to let you know, what you have is officially called a "F53". Autozone has some good diagrams around that year, but only on the E450 would would cover the class C. I checked, and they are different from the ones I have, I do have a 1999 CD with the F53 in it. I thought about trying to do a screen shot and put it up on the web, but the graphics on these old CD's are lousy unless you blow them up. What I am going to try to do is describe this circuit with words, it's not too complicated.
It starts in the engine compartment fuse box at fuse "L" 50 amp. This feeds the ignition switch with a lightgreen/pink wire. This is just one of many sections to the ignition switch. When the switch is in "start" position, the power is passed through the switch on a red/lightblue wire.
The red/lightblue wire heads toward the engine compartment fuse box. Along the way there is a splice with another red/light blue and this wire is left hanging in case the body builder wants to add a gizmo to start the engine automatically. It hits the fuse box and goes to fuse 7, 15 amp.(good place to put your meter while holding the key over).
It comes out of the fuse and is a dark/blue orange wire. It goes down to the side of the tranny to the neutral safety switch(they now call it the DTR sensor, digital transmission range sensor).
The circuit passes through the DTR when it's in park or neutral,, and comes out of the DTR as a tan/red wire. When it comes out somewhere along the way this wire also has a splice and a piece hanging in case the body builder wants to use it for something(you must have a lot of loose wires in the harness).
The tan/red wire heads right over to the starter solenoid which should make it crank. It looks like they are using the old time separate solenoid(should be called a relay) and then that passes power to a real solenoid on the starter which then passes the large current to the starter motor.
I would start I think somewhere quick and easy. I would put my meter on that fuse 7 and get someone to try and start it. But if it's easy enough to start at the ignition switch, that would work too.
I know you said also you have been a tech for years, so I am just reminding you to use a testlight or a old voltmeter, or keep everything hooked up in the circuit when testing. If you have a bad connection you need to load the circuit down to find it, a wire disconnecting the circuit and hanging in the air with a sensitive digital voltmeter on it can give you false readings.
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