I'll continue to follow this thread. A couple notes...

1)I know you said you're replacing the filter soon. Make it a priority. Those specter filters are pretty awful. I've seen one get sucked in by a 7.3.

2) your truck is a 2000, and is not OBD II compliant. A cheap Auto zone reader may not pull all codes being stored, even if the SES light isn't on there may be codes. It wasn't until 2002 that they started working with cheap scanners.

3) your truck SHOULD run wwithoutan ICP sensor but fixing anything g helps eliminate possible problems.

 

The tach works with the signal from the CPS... I noticed the "die" or stumble immediately follows the tach-fall. This might be a classic case of bad CPS. An intermittent CPS can cause the engine to get confused - leading to all sorts of false codes.

One other thing - those are AC injectors. Your truck won't run right (once it stays running) unless you have that chip replaced... with tunes for Stage 1 injectors. I hope those don't have modified nozzles.

 

The fuel filter has been changed. And unplugging the ICP made a small difference. Is it possible I got a bad CPS out of the box? I got it from NAPA. But if the old CPS was going bad it seems very weird to me that a new one would have the same exact symptoms.

 

Is it possible I got a bad CPS out of the box? I got it from NAPA. But if the old CPS was going bad it seems very weird to me that a new one would have the same exact symptoms. Also, I have ran and driven the truck without the chip in it (while it was being shipped to TS) and it ran fine with no problems, just lacked some power as you'd expect. From what I asked my buddy I bought the truck from, the chip was a generic TS with no custom tunes for the stage 1 injectors

 

I did check oil level and it's perfect, I'll check the level in the HPOP too. And yeah I'll check that harness on the valve cover

 

OK... sliding the CPS aside for a sec: That PCM. I wonder why the seller got rid of it. Did he part out a truck, was he shotgunning a problem and this was a spare, or did he dump a dud?

I really don't like that tach falling so rapidly - it's like its a bad connection, PCM, or CPS.

 

With six codes for low/high input for other sensors, I'd expect whatever is causing those codes to also affect the cam position sensor and every other sensor on the truck for that matter. Don't change the cam position sensor because of the way the tach is acting; change it because it's an aftermarket sensor. Get one from a Ford or IH dealer and put it in there. Keep the NAPA sensor for a spare and maybe put it back in after the rest of the problems are ironed out to see if it's good. And yes, the PCM is questionable. That's the other thing that's a common thread in every one of your codes. Did you figure out if you have a CA emissions truck or not yet? You really need a scan tool that can run tests like KOEO for this one.

 

I bought the PCM from automotivemodulesource on ebay, they refurbish them. When I bought it, I had to message them some info about the truck...transmission, vin, mileage, etc. So that the PCM could be programmed for my specific truck. I believe the PCM is okay, as I ran it for like 2 weeks with it in with zero problems

 

I'm gonna take a look in a half hour to see if it's a CA truck

 

My friend has a PCM, maybe I'll pop it in and see if that's the issue.

 

Just to clear up what I meant by the last sentence, I was trying to say you need to be able to run tests to help diagnose the problem. When I read what I typed, it looks like I was saying you need to be able to run tests because of the PCM itself. In any case, if you have an Android device with Bluetooth, putting out $25 or so for a Bluetooth adapter, Torque Pro and Car Gauge Pro would be a good idea. Or you if you have a WinD'ohs laptop, you could order AE with the Ford enhanced bundle for about $360.

 

I just checked for it being a CA truck. It has 2 relays instead of 1 and a glow plug module. So this means it's not a CA truck? Should I message the company on ebay and see if they programmed it for CA emissions or not?

 

I don't really wanna spend $360 unless I have to. I've got a Galaxy S4. What would Torque Pro and Car Gage Pro show? What is their purpose...are they code readers, or digital gauges

 

You might be able to find someone in your area with a scan tool. If your truck has mini swamps injectors, those are single shots, won't work in your truck unless you have it programed/chipped to do so. Do you know who's tunes are on the chip?

 

Plenty of Torque Pro info here: [LINK] and here [LINK]