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The thick red (pink?) resistor wire in my truck is coiled just above the ignition switch.
It should be around 1 1/2 Ohms for a DuraSpark coil.
You can use a Mopar ceramic ballast resistor mounted in the engine bay if your truck is some odd vintage that didn't have it in the cab harness.
ETA, I found this in a post by our resident parts guru Bill
Good morning..yes, I would think that we in our forum (bull-nose trucks) should be aware of the fact that this resistor wire exists in the harness already. (this fact is casually mentioned generally but not defined as to where it is).
The "SOCKET" I'm trying to identify actually connects to that feed that exists so as to eliminate the need for an external resistor in our series of trucks. I would like to assume that ALL variants of the 80-86 Ford series trucks and Bronco's etc would include this resistor wire, perhaps with some exceptions?.
I realize that from 84 and up 5.0's and 4.9's are TFI equipped but would perhaps still include that resistor wiring since it's "inside the cab wiring. This may not be true for all cases but I'm presuming.
To identify this socket that will allow for fast wiring to that resisted feed to me is an important step in the DSII conversion process. I don't see a any benefit to adding any resistor to a circuit that already has one, or introduce the confusion of tying into the starter solenoid to some who really don't need to. good discussion.
The consensus seems to be that the resistor wire is found in all bullnose trucks.
E-coil TFI trucks could use the full 'key on' power that JimsRebel mentioned above.
I could see demand for the socket you want, but don't know where to get one.
Okay, sorry.
I thought you had asked for the plug.
I still can't see how the pins are arranged or where the keys are.
Given that my '87 (w/ DSII) seems to be a bit of an oddball, so I'm not sure I can look at my own truck for what would fit yours.
I don't know of anyone in the aftermarket who sell the socket side of that connection.
If you're willing to go to a "terminal block" you might consider a four pin Weatherpak connector.
They are easy to wire and available almost anywhere.
I understand the difficulty of seeing the "keys". I really hated to take either of mine apart for just this post, and I didn't have a spare example around. These plugs are pretty specific from what i can see.
In order to split that connection at any repair time, maybe a newer type of connection like a terminal block or such is the answer. I'll keep looking into that.
I had actually sold some spare parts to a local guy that was trying to "durspark" his 85 4.9L and explaining all of this brought up the need for a new harness..
I'm perusing thru that Ford 4pin catalog now and that may be the ticket, although i really don't like cutting up that "plug side" of this connection unless it's absolutely necessary.
The consensus seems to be that the resistor wire is found in all bullnose trucks.
E-coil TFI trucks could use the full 'key on' power that JimsRebel mentioned above.
I could see demand for the socket you want, but don't know where to get one.
It seems like this DSII conversation comes up in spirts, something I have a feeling will continue as these rigs get older..glad to see someone with your cred here understanding the need ..maybe a better solution may come up?
The consensus seems to be that the resistor wire is found in all bullnose trucks.
E-coil TFI trucks could use the full 'key on' power that JimsRebel mentioned above..
Actually I converted my 86 4.9L some time ago and I've forgotten which lead I used to power the coil with (I need to unwrap it and see). I know the capacitor circuit on the coil is resisted...
It's embarrassing to admit but I may have wired the TFI coil resisted..I'm going to unwrap it all and look into it..BTW it runs great and has so for miles..But I'm planning some mods to the wiring.
It seems like this DSII conversation comes up in spirts, something I have a feeling will continue as these rigs get older..glad to see someone with your cred here understanding the need ..maybe a better solution may come up?
Who knows?
Maybe if a company like Pico got enough requests they would tool up for it.
Too bad there don't seem to be any high resolution thermosetting 3D printers on the consumer market.
Once scanned the file could be shared.
Certainly, the pins themselves are available.
Who knows?
Maybe if a company like Pico got enough requests they would tool up for it.
Too bad there don't seem to be any thermosetting 3D printers on the market.
Once scanned the file could be shared.
Certainly, the pins themselves are available.
I wouldn't want to change to different connectors given the number of problems we've seen on here with DS-II modules going bad. I like the idea of being able to change the module out while on a trip if I have to do so.
Here is a picture of the resistor wire on the engine side, I have never found the other end of it in the cab and have looked on many 85-86 trucks at the junk yard. A bigger and more important issue is the resistor bypass wire which was added on TFI trucks. Pre 1984 have 2 wires in and 1 wire out at this splice, meaning the start bypass that used to be on the starter solenoid connects here, downstream of the resistor wire. The photo I posted of the earlier DS2 plug does not have the large fat coil feed wire (Red / yellow) which is also the resistor bypass wire.
The resistor wire is the pink wire with a rubbery feel to it, the smaller one in the center on this photo, at the 3 in 1 out splice.
Very few people that do the DS2 conversion test the coil positive voltage to see if it is correct. Most just plug it together and run it as is with or without the correct DS2 coil.
Very good photo documentation.
Rep's and thank you!
The coil voltage needs to be checked with the DSII coil connected and grounded.
A meter doesn't put enough load on the red+ wire for resistance to show.
As I said, I've found the resistor wire in my '87 harness close to the ignition switch.
I think I have that same pair of Xcelite side cutters kicking around in one of my electrical kits.
As I said, I've found the resistor wire in my '87 harness close to the ignition switch.
After I first read this I went out to look again at my truck ... but was distracted by the moose in my neighbors backyard, moose vs doberman .... not my usual Saturday morning ... anyway I just checked my truck and couldn't find it or see any coil of wire.
When I first tested the voltage drop of the resistor wire I used a 1156 tail light bulb as a LOAD and did get a 2-3 volt drop. I current see about 10-11 volts at the coil positive at idle with the 4 pin GM module.
In theory you could just cut the bypass wire and force it to all flow through the resistor wire, that is if you still have all 49 feet of it in your truck still, I don't think I do. If someone does attempt this be sure and cut it so you an install a butt splice, if needed.
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