How to do a compression test: step-by-step ??
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,199
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From: Oklahoma
How to do a compression test: step-by-step ??
Well it's time to do final checks before getting new injectors with a Compression Test. My question is "How To"? I'm a project manager so I like step by step instructions...
Here are the steps I know so far:
* connect a battery charger
1: Valve covers off
2: Pull all glow plugs on the bank being tested
3: Pull the IDM relay/fuse (where is it?)
4: Thread in the testing whip
5: Using key allow motor 4-5 revolutions and record number
So my questions, what's missing? What about the 42 pin connector over the driver side valve cover?
If my numbers hold with what my mechanic said (approx 415) then new injectors will be installed. My concerns are my puff out of the oil filler neck is getting stronger. Like Jason (HKUSP) I am using a quart of oil every 500 miles.
I have a P1316 that relates to a Hi to Low side open on #8. The truck runs just fine, but I'm willing to dig through everything under the VC's to try and save my truck.
I've only had it a year and I don't want to trash it...
Here are the steps I know so far:
* connect a battery charger
1: Valve covers off
2: Pull all glow plugs on the bank being tested
3: Pull the IDM relay/fuse (where is it?)
4: Thread in the testing whip
5: Using key allow motor 4-5 revolutions and record number
So my questions, what's missing? What about the 42 pin connector over the driver side valve cover?
If my numbers hold with what my mechanic said (approx 415) then new injectors will be installed. My concerns are my puff out of the oil filler neck is getting stronger. Like Jason (HKUSP) I am using a quart of oil every 500 miles.
I have a P1316 that relates to a Hi to Low side open on #8. The truck runs just fine, but I'm willing to dig through everything under the VC's to try and save my truck.
I've only had it a year and I don't want to trash it...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 52
From: Sacramento Delta, CA
IMO forget about the IDM and 42-pin connectors (I hate breaking connectors so I leave them connected when I can). And leave the friggin' keys in the house. (Because a 7.3 will run on just one bank.)
Spend $15 and buy a remote switch for the starter from Napa.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...124_0405868045
Yes, H.F. also has one for about the same money but the wires are thinner.
Hook up battery charger while doing test.
Do the test twice in the same order as the first time.
Spend $15 and buy a remote switch for the starter from Napa.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...124_0405868045
Yes, H.F. also has one for about the same money but the wires are thinner.
Hook up battery charger while doing test.
Do the test twice in the same order as the first time.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 2
From: Oklahoma
I'm looking to build ultra reliable as close to stock as possible in the mechanical world. Therefore, I'm looking to whoever sales new allient injectors.
I'm not doing the reman route assuming the block is good. The goal has always been to have the best stock struck I can and improve on areas ford skipped.
So NEW stock injectors.
I'm not doing the reman route assuming the block is good. The goal has always been to have the best stock struck I can and improve on areas ford skipped.
So NEW stock injectors.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Sounds like a plan.....you can't beat Clay (Riffraff) or Ryan Casserly (Full Force Diesel) in my opinion........
FWIW - Considering the heavier weight of my Excursion compared to my F-250 I think the 160 cc with stock nozzles are a better fit than the stock split shot injectors (and that's what international chose to run in the T444E's IIRC). They require less oil to run that the stock injectors, a bit lower EGT's and supply a whole lot more torque. Especially when you load the Ex up with cargo. 15 MPG around town 18 on the highway.
FWIW - Considering the heavier weight of my Excursion compared to my F-250 I think the 160 cc with stock nozzles are a better fit than the stock split shot injectors (and that's what international chose to run in the T444E's IIRC). They require less oil to run that the stock injectors, a bit lower EGT's and supply a whole lot more torque. Especially when you load the Ex up with cargo. 15 MPG around town 18 on the highway.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 2
From: Oklahoma
I remember our conversation about those injectors. The issue is I have to flack the PCM or always run a chip with specific tunes. I'd like a chip, but should it have a problem, I'm dead in the water.
I'm really trying to keep it simple. What thoughts do you have?
I'm really trying to keep it simple. What thoughts do you have?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
I hear your concerns..........
You could reflash the PCM like Rich (Tugly) is doing in addition to his Hydra Chip. That way - if he has a chip problem on the road he can remove the chip and will still have a base program on the PCM to run his 160/100 AC injectors.
I have had the same old style Van Ayken chip in my F-250 since 2005 - no problems....If there was a problem I could still run the truck. Like many others, I have run our 5th wheel around the country (Florida, Smokie's, Rockie's, etc) and wouldn't think twice about doing this setup again.....
Compare the cost of the two sets of injectors and add in the cost to reflash the PCM. See what's in your budget. You can't go wrong with either injector setup you choose.
You could reflash the PCM like Rich (Tugly) is doing in addition to his Hydra Chip. That way - if he has a chip problem on the road he can remove the chip and will still have a base program on the PCM to run his 160/100 AC injectors.
I have had the same old style Van Ayken chip in my F-250 since 2005 - no problems....If there was a problem I could still run the truck. Like many others, I have run our 5th wheel around the country (Florida, Smokie's, Rockie's, etc) and wouldn't think twice about doing this setup again.....
Compare the cost of the two sets of injectors and add in the cost to reflash the PCM. See what's in your budget. You can't go wrong with either injector setup you choose.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2013
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From: Oklahoma
So to update the step-by-step
* connect a battery charger
1: Remove Valve covers
2: Pull all glow plugs on the bank being tested
3: Remove keys from truck
4: Thread in the testing whip
5: Using starter jumper, allow motor 4-5 revolutions and record number
So what size fuel line will help me remove the glow plugs since the sockets will hit the rocker arm?
Also, it's a 10mm deep socket to get the Glow Plugs to break loose, correct?
On the Injector/PCM/Chip... I'm all over the place with ideas, but I keep coming back to the K-I-S-S methodology. As I said, I'm a Project Manager and never try to add chaos to my work.
I'm not opposed to making the motor as efficient as possible as long as I don't create new issues in the process.
Who can flash a PCM?
* connect a battery charger
1: Remove Valve covers
2: Pull all glow plugs on the bank being tested
3: Remove keys from truck
4: Thread in the testing whip
5: Using starter jumper, allow motor 4-5 revolutions and record number
So what size fuel line will help me remove the glow plugs since the sockets will hit the rocker arm?
Also, it's a 10mm deep socket to get the Glow Plugs to break loose, correct?
On the Injector/PCM/Chip... I'm all over the place with ideas, but I keep coming back to the K-I-S-S methodology. As I said, I'm a Project Manager and never try to add chaos to my work.
I'm not opposed to making the motor as efficient as possible as long as I don't create new issues in the process.
Who can flash a PCM?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 52
From: Sacramento Delta, CA
Dang, it's laying on the floorboard of my van which is at a different location than I am now. I bought two sizes of rubber hose. One which was about 1/8" I.D. and one which was a smaller I.D. I tried both and they both work after you have used a 10mm thin wall 1/4" drive deep socket to loosen the glow plug. (No the socket cannot be used to remove the glow plug, because the top of the socket gets caught on the rocker arm - so that's where the rubber fuel line/hose comes in.)
IMO, the 1/8" slides on easiest but has less grip so you have to keep trimming it so you have a fresh end without oil, but once it gets oil in it you're done it won't grip on the next glow plug (i.e., one glow plug use) so you need to trim the hose after each use. The slightly smaller size also worked but was harder to push on.
EDIT: Remember, my 7.3L PSD experience is limited to a van where the heads are not accessible from above, but are covered by the van's tunnel. So F-series may be easier because you guys have more accessibilty. But our access to the up-pipes beats the F-series big time.
IMO, the 1/8" slides on easiest but has less grip so you have to keep trimming it so you have a fresh end without oil, but once it gets oil in it you're done it won't grip on the next glow plug (i.e., one glow plug use) so you need to trim the hose after each use. The slightly smaller size also worked but was harder to push on.
EDIT: Remember, my 7.3L PSD experience is limited to a van where the heads are not accessible from above, but are covered by the van's tunnel. So F-series may be easier because you guys have more accessibilty. But our access to the up-pipes beats the F-series big time.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
I don't recall the exact size socket I used but I don't remember using anything but the socket and my fingers to remove the glow plugs......either way it takes less time to do it than to figure it out. I definitely would consider replacing the UVC harness when in there. Especially if replacing the injectors. $38 at RiffRaff IIRC
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,340
Likes: 588
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
A deep socket can get hung up under the rocker arm if it's in the right spot. I remember seeing a socket that was kind of half-deep that would probably be perfect for glow plugs, but I haven't seen them on a store shelf in a while.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 9,359
Likes: 1
From: Hampstead, NC
I have used both a deep and semi deep 10mm socket to remove the glow plugs, 1/4" drive. Either works, the semi deep is easier to get out once the glow plug is backed all the way out though.
I also use a small, extendable magnet to remove them once they are threaded all the way out. Lots easier than dinking with a piece of rubber hose IMO.
I also use a small, extendable magnet to remove them once they are threaded all the way out. Lots easier than dinking with a piece of rubber hose IMO.
