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Air Compressor set up

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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 12:48 PM
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Air Compressor set up

I finally bit the bullet and bought a nice air compressor:
Craftsman Professional 60-gal. Air Compressor
Apparently, this old guy was kind of losing it at the end, and ordered some stuff before he passed away. his widow put this one up for sale on Craigslist after it arrived the day after his funeral. Got it for $250. Anyway, I'm looking at how to set it up in my garage. I have the 220 and box all set, but don't know how "fancy" I should get with the air line. Some of these set ups have multiple filters, air dryers, etc, etc. I don't want to ruin my tools, or shorten the life of the compressor, but I'm only going to use this thing once every other week for minimal stuff. How over the top should I go with all that stuff?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 01:33 PM
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It all depends on what you're going to be using it for. If it's simply to run air tools then one filter and separator should be fine. If you're talking about running paint guns then you'll probably have multiple filters and separators and line drops to catch the moisture. You may even want to invest in an automatic drain to install on the bottom of the tank to help out.

One thing is for sure, if you're going to run a permanent hard line, make sure you run copper. DO NOT run PVC line. Most of the time PVC has been ok, but it ages and gets brittle. IT COULD EXPLODE at some point, and if you've never seen PVC explode, it ain't pretty. If you run soft line, them make sure your hose is rated at least 250PSI and check it often for cracks and aging.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 01:37 PM
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i have a blow off valve on the bottom of the tank. plus a manual drain.
i have power from box to a switch on the wall, and the compressor hard wired into the switch.
airline comes out of the tank to a 1/4 turn ball valve. then to a quick connect so i can put a regulator in the line if needed. there is a 24 inch of soft line from the quick connect to the steel lines that run all over the shop.
i also have a 50 ft hose reel plumbed in at the compressor, and another at the front door.
there is also a 15 foot line dropping from the ceiling in the middle of the shop to use on either the tire machine or the 30 ton press.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 07:47 PM
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Sounds like you already have it setup pretty good just install the reg and filter
 
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 11:43 AM
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Well, I finally hooked up the 220 line and I installed the compressor. As I said, I bought it used and it had the following connected to the outgoing air line. First, this:

Milton 1120-8 Filter 1/2" NPT Metal Bowl

Then, literally connected to that, is this:

Milton Industries 1115 1/2" Regulator With 2-125 PSI NPT

(this regulator had a dial connected to it). Both items are described as "high pressure, relieving type regulators". The first one is further designated as having 2-125 PSI NPT. Can any of you help me with what these are, why I have two of them, and if I need any other accessories on my line? TIA
 
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 01:24 PM
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the first one is a filter. the second one is a pressure regulator.
2 125 psi NPT means it has 2 pipe thread taps on it,and is rated for 125 PSI.
just about all air fittings are pipe thread.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 03:38 PM
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A few tips;

With that small of a compressor on that big of a tank water/oil in the air is a very minor concern, it will almost completely precipitate out in the large tank. Thus I wouldn't bother with filters and such unless painting, they are just restrictions to flow.

It should have come with an over pressure blow off safety valve, likely 160PSI and most likely located on top somewhere. Most likely is has a ring or a way to attach one that can be pulled on. If it's not already in the bottom of the tank move it there. Then put a small chain on the valve so you can pull it and open the valve. This makes for a very easy way to drain the water at the end of each days use.
Valve looks like this http://www.aircompressorservicekits....-25-PSI-04.gif

That compressor will make 150PSI, your regulator will only go to 125. You may want to upgrade for when you need all 150.

Be smart to begin with and use the larger available air hose fittings and large 3/8" minimum hose. Do no use that coiled plastic stuff it's too restrictive.
http://image.carcraft.com/f/techarti...e-fittings.jpg
Look at the internal difference in that pic, you want the one on the right.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BruteFord
A few tips;

With that small of a compressor on that big of a tank water/oil in the air is a very minor concern, it will almost completely precipitate out in the large tank. Thus I wouldn't bother with filters and such unless painting, they are just restrictions to flow.

It should have come with an over pressure blow off safety valve, likely 160PSI and most likely located on top somewhere. Most likely is has a ring or a way to attach one that can be pulled on. If it's not already in the bottom of the tank move it there. Then put a small chain on the valve so you can pull it and open the valve. This makes for a very easy way to drain the water at the end of each days use.
Valve looks like this http://www.aircompressorservicekits....-25-PSI-04.gif

That compressor will make 150PSI, your regulator will only go to 125. You may want to upgrade for when you need all 150.

Be smart to begin with and use the larger available air hose fittings and large 3/8" minimum hose. Do no use that coiled plastic stuff it's too restrictive.
http://image.carcraft.com/f/techarti...e-fittings.jpg
Look at the internal difference in that pic, you want the one on the right.
1) OK, so I'll remove the filter and only re-attach it if I ever paint (doubtful).
2) Yes, I have a over pressure blow off safety valve near the top, and also has a valve at the bottom for draining. Are you saying to switch the two valves?
3) I believe there is a serious restriction just before the coupling for the rubber air hose. The outside diameter of the piece of pipe there is less than 1/2" I'll post a pic tomorrow at work (can't do it from home computer).
 
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by joegeds
Well, I finally hooked up the 220 line and I installed the compressor. As I said, I bought it used and it had the following connected to the outgoing air line. First, this:

Milton 1120-8 Filter 1/2" NPT Metal Bowl

Then, literally connected to that, is this:

Milton Industries 1115 1/2" Regulator With 2-125 PSI NPT

(this regulator had a dial connected to it). Both items are described as "high pressure, relieving type regulators". The first one is further designated as having 2-125 PSI NPT. Can any of you help me with what these are, why I have two of them, and if I need any other accessories on my line? TIA

On the Nat'l Elec Code (NEC) side of things make sure you're protected----if you're in a sub panel the ground and neutral need to be SEPARATE..........GFCIs are always life savers ...............and a cutoff switch at/near the "beast" is a very good thing.........

 
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by F350 1990
On the Nat'l Elec Code (NEC) side of things make sure you're protected----if you're in a sub panel the ground and neutral need to be SEPARATE..........GFCIs are always life savers ...............and a cutoff switch at/near the "beast" is a very good thing.........

I decided not to go the sub-panel route. I ran the 12-2 from the 20 amp double breaker to a socket that fit the plug for the compressor. Looks like this:
http://www.robrobinette.com/temp/welder/cord1.jpg
This is OK, no?
 
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by joegeds
I decided not to go the sub-panel route. I ran the 12-2 from the 20 amp double breaker to a socket that fit the plug for the compressor. Looks like this:
http://www.robrobinette.com/temp/welder/cord1.jpg
This is OK, no?
If you ran it more than a couple of feet using 12/2? gonna go with a no....well gonna go with a "no" regardless.

Really need more info but likely creating an unsafe condition and underpowering the motor in the process.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 09:57 PM
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12 gauge wire is rated for 20 amp circuits. As long as the length is reasonable (<= 100 ft.) you should be good IMHO.

The motor is rated at 3.1 HP which is ~2400 watts. On a 220V feed that is just over 10 amps. The starting current draw is going to twice that so that is the reason for the 20 amp breaker.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by rla2005
12 gauge wire is rated for 20 amp circuits. As long as the length is reasonable (<= 100 ft.) you should be good IMHO.

The motor is rated at 3.1 HP which is ~2400 watts. On a 220V feed that is just over 10 amps. The starting current draw is going to twice that so that is the reason for the 20 amp breaker.
The length is about 50', and I did run it by an electrician (a family member) before I did the work. Two things I normally don't mess with are electricity and gas. This seemed like an easy do-it-yourself project, so I did it.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by joegeds
1)
3) I believe there is a serious restriction just before the coupling for the rubber air hose. The outside diameter of the piece of pipe there is less than 1/2" I'll post a pic tomorrow at work (can't do it from home computer).

OK, here's a pic of the compressor outlet tube. As you can see, just to the left of the regulator, is a tiny fitting just before the snap-on ring fitting. That nut is less than 1/2" outside diameter, so inside diameter is pretty small. As you can see, the outlet pipe near the compressor is much larger. I'm guessing I should probably get rid of the small fitting, correct?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by joegeds
I have a over pressure blow off safety valve near the top, and also has a valve at the bottom for draining. Are you saying to switch the two valves?
no. leave the blow off valve on top. you can either add a blow off valve on the bottom that will open for a second when the compressor shuts off, or just open the bottom valve to drain any condensation before using the compressor, and then again after you are done for the day.
 
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