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dead cylinder?

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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 02:22 PM
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dead cylinder?

so awhile back i made a post about my 92 f150 302, having poor acceleration and power. i pulled the plug wires off while the engine was running to see if the cylinder were all firing, and when i pulled the plug wire off the right/front plug (#5 cylinder i believe) idle didn't change at all. so it seems as if the cylinder isn't firing at all. the plug and plug wire is good, how could i check to see if its getting fuel from the injector?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 02:36 PM
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Pull the spark plug, see if it is wet or black w/soot.

If it is dry then you know it is not getting fuel.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 03:59 PM
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it must be getting some fuel, its wet with black around the threads. is it possibly getting not enough fuel to fire properly, or does this sound like a low compression issue?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 04:22 PM
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Why not get a compression gauge and find out?? No matter how much fuel you have it ain't gonna fire without compression...

Originally Posted by 1992FordF150Custom
it must be getting some fuel, its wet with black around the threads. is it possibly getting not enough fuel to fire properly, or does this sound like a low compression issue?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 1992FordF150Custom
it must be getting some fuel, its wet with black around the threads. is it possibly getting not enough fuel to fire properly, or does this sound like a low compression issue?
It might be low compression. As noted above it is time for a compression check.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 04:45 PM
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right after i made the post i went outside and did a compression test on the cylinder. after i disabled the fuel system, i held the throttle open and cranked it over, and the best i got was about 120psi, is this really low?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 12:30 AM
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I would say yes, it is low. You have to compare it to the other cylinders, though. The engine I just took out had a couple cylinders that were that low, while others were up to 150. In my case, I knew without doing a compression check. There was so much blow-by that oil was draining from the air filter box, soaking the filter, and dripping oil residue from the tps. Very little smoke from the exhaust, however.

Other indicators were an uneven/rough idle and if I had the a/c on, it would stall the engine when going from drive to reverse gear unless I tapped the accelerator. Under light acceleration, it would have kind of a "surge" until the rpms built up a bit.

If any of this sounds familiar (especially the blow-by), then I suggest a rebuild/replace is due.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 12:46 AM
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I just read your low power thread. It seems that you lost power after an evening of horsing around, correct? One thing I didn't see you mention is the timing. It may have retarded during the rough driving. If it is still firing before TDC, the engine will still rev while not in gear somewhat normally, but it will be sluggish under load. Might as well verify that is good also before condemning the engine, right?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 01:11 PM
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yes thats when this all started, and i'm regretting it! is there away to check timing without a timing light?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 1992FordF150Custom
right after i made the post i went outside and did a compression test on the cylinder. after i disabled the fuel system, i held the throttle open and cranked it over, and the best i got was about 120psi, is this really low?
You need to check the rest of the cylinders to determine if that reading is low or in line with the rest of the others.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 1992FordF150Custom
is there away to check timing without a timing light?
No it requires a timing light
 
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 11:35 PM
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i will check the rest of the cylinders compression numbers when i get a chance, can't you keep rotating the distributer shaft until it pings than retard it a little, or is this a bad idea?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 01:14 AM
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i also heard if that if you the #1 cylinder is a TDC you can put the rotor pointing at the #1 post on the cap, would this method work?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 01:33 AM
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Even if your compression ratios are variable, setting the timing properly will help it run as good as it can until it is overhauled or replaced. I would use a light instead of the ear tune method.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 1992FordF150Custom
i also heard if that if you the #1 cylinder is a TDC you can put the rotor pointing at the #1 post on the cap, would this method work?
This gets you close. There is no real way to know without a timing light.
 
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