Truck : 99' F350 power stroke.
I am having to jump my truck every morning. I got a new battery two weeks ago. Once it was installed it started for about a week. Now when I turn the key over the glow plugs turn on and drain the battery. I can hear the intake heater clicking is that normal?

 

You said you got "a new battery". The batteries (plural) should always be replaced in pairs. If the other battery was weak, you may now have two bad batteries (again). I would pull both batteries and have them load tested before going further.

 

When you checked the voltage output for the alternator (you checked the voltage, right?) what was the reading at idle after the glow plugs cut off?

Stewart

 

Hah, I had to go back and reread the post because my mind read his post as batteries (plural) because I'm so used to changing both at the same time.

Stewart

 

I had the batteries tested, on was completely dead the other was fine.

I checked the batteries before I turned the key on they both had 12.23 volts. After the glow plugs came on there was no voltage registering at all.

 

If your finances permit, always, always, always change both batteries, even if only one shows as weak or bad.

At what point was this? Was it before you replaced the bad battery?

Also, again I ask, what is your voltage at idle, after the glow plugs cut off? I'm asking what your voltage output is right now. Trying to help you determine if your alternator is bad too.

Stewart

 

Okay, let's say both batteries were new, and the same thing was happening, any thoughts?

 

I'll go jump it check the voltage.

 

Agree: Batteries are better replaced as pairs.

12.3 is only about 75% Charge State. You're seeking 12.6 or better with no load at 80*F is close to 100%.

A healthy Battery System should fall to about 11.2 or higher when the GP Circuit is closed and recover to 13.7 or greater when it opens (they'll sometimes hang around 13.6 for a few minutes until they recover).

These are non-PCM controlled Charging Systems. The Voltage at the B+ Post on the Alternator should be 13.7 or greater.

The Diode Test should be: 5 VDC (+/- .5 VDC).

The Intake Heater is either closed or open and has no movable parts - you should hear no clicking from it. You may be mistaking it for the Solenoid in front of the GP Solenoid (or possibly the GP Solenoid itself), or even a relay.

"If I were having this problem and all else were fine" as you asked. The next step would be to check:

1. Voltage Drop at: Batteries and Starter, Solenoid and Starter, anything greater than .5VDC Drop is excessive and indicates resistance.

2. Parasitic Draw on the system.

 

This is not possible (what I bolded) if you mean by "no voltage" meaning 0 (zero) volts IF the connections are clean and tight throughout the battery cabling system. I'm thinking you should remove/clean/reconnect each contact throughout the starting system including grounds. I've seen this happen on a car where the connection at the starter was weak. When the key was turned to try to start, it would arc a bit and then completely break the connection.

 

OK. So both batteries registered 12.65, turned the key and watched it drop down to about 11. Turned the ignition over and it dropped to 5. Volts and the the truck shut down all together.

 

1. Okay, first you have to confirm the condition of each battery. INDIVIDUALLY Load testing is a good way but determining the general health, specific gravity of each cell is the best to determine the individual health of each plate cell.

If they're low you can try to fill them with denatured water and charging them INDIVIDUALLY and recheck them INDIVIDUALLY.

2. The reason everything shuts down is because it falls below 10.5 VDC which shuts down the IDM signaling circuit.

3. During the process, ensure all connections are free of corrosion and properly torqued on the posts.

Do this and repost your results and we'll move forward with Voltage Drop Testing.

 

Charger sat on the old battery for a few hours the truck fired right up. The new battery registers 12.69 with everything on the old battery is falling from 14.13. How long should I let the truck run with radio, AC, lights etc. Running?

 

This is possible. When the load exceeds the available amperage the voltage reading can be 0. Not that there is no voltage, there is just nothing to push it through. This would indicate ( in our case with the Diesels) that one of the two batteries is DOA and insufficient Amperage is Available. I didn't believe it either and was scratching my head when I attended a class Dan Sullivan taught. He demonstrated it and I was amazed.

In essence its just like checking for voltage on the ground side of the electric motor. If the motor has failed or is failing, voltage can be seen on the (-).

Dan "is the man" when it comes to electrical. He has a book out I have somewhere on a shelf I've read no less than 10 or so times. Written for the Technician and not the Engineer (if you know what I mean) focus is on automobiles and heavy machinery. He made a product called the "LoadPro". Changes the whole way you look at electrical troubleshooting problems. That book and tool has paid for itself 100 x over. I'll see If I find it tomorrow I'll post the Title. Its well worth whatever I paid for it because like I said, its paid for itself the first use.

 

Don't let it draw anything. Don't run it because its not evenly loaded across the paralleled circuit. Disconnect it.

The Truck stated with the older of the two batteries charged. So, the real test is charge it again, but this time let it sit for three to six hours without the charger attached until is gets back down to 12.6 VDC (it may be sooner if it has bad cells - in actuality, you would have to determine the temperature of the water, VDC, and ambient Air Temperature. But this works on the fly) and then turn the key and see if it starts.

If it doesn't start (and it sounds like it won't), you've identified the problem But also be aware using a depleted battery like this can damage a good battery in Parallel. So charge it separately and connect it prior to starting and disconnect it until its replaced following use.

In the future, as stated by so many above, ALWAYS change batteries in parallel as a unit. Paralleled designs are to ensure amperage availability during peak load + 50% (Starting in this case along with incidental amenities such as the GP's and Heater).

A weak battery will always draw from a good battery in parallel. The weaker the "Bad" battery, the more damage it will cause to the good one by sulfurizing the plates prematurely and not allowing it to recover to a full charge state. This does not take long to occur!

Another thing to consider when purchasing batteries is not the Brand but the Manufacturer. There are only a few manufacturers of batteries. They change their production lines at predetermined times to manufacturer and brand the units. Often there are proprietary, minor differences making them unique to their application. For instance, Harley-Davidson Batteries are manufactured by Deka. Because its proprietary (H-D) a Deka Branded Battery requires an 1/4" Copper Spacer at the side screw lugs. There is no other difference of what's inside or the processes which produce it. Its a product brand.

Here is another example: A Kirkland Group 65 for your Truck is made by Johnson Controls. The same Motorcraft Battery is also made by Johnson Controls. Just at different times in manufacturing throughout the year.

I am in no way trying to sway you to any brand or manufacturer. These are just the facts for last years production sequences for both Branded Batteries. Branded contracting changes every so often so check before you buy to get the best product for your truck at a reasonable cost.