Ignition Problems..... DuraSpark II
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I'm glad to hear you have the car running! 
Sorry that I didn't mention that the pickup can go bad.
Usually it is the module that fails.
When testing across the orange and purple wires at the distributor plug you should find between 400 and 900 ohms.
Sorry that I didn't mention that the pickup can go bad.
Usually it is the module that fails.
When testing across the orange and purple wires at the distributor plug you should find between 400 and 900 ohms.
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New User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
It's all good. I'm just excited that I got it running. Now I just have to finish fabricating and welding up my exhaust and put fluid in the trans, might even get it on the road this weekend. I was certain I had it wired correctly. I have lost sleep going over and rewiring it in my head.
New User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Ignition turned off, engine still running
Hey all I'm new to the forum, trying to figure out how everything works. Thought I would reply in here and see how it goes.
I have a 1985 Ford F-350, 460, Automatic
Original problem= Turned key and got absolutely nothing.
In succession I replaced battery, starter, solenoid, ignition switch, fuse and finally ran a new power wire from the solenoid to the ignition switch.
Truck starts!.....but now it won't stop when you turn the ignition off!
I'm thinking it's the relay switch. Any other suggestions outside of that?????
I have a 1985 Ford F-350, 460, Automatic
Original problem= Turned key and got absolutely nothing.
In succession I replaced battery, starter, solenoid, ignition switch, fuse and finally ran a new power wire from the solenoid to the ignition switch.
Truck starts!.....but now it won't stop when you turn the ignition off!
I'm thinking it's the relay switch. Any other suggestions outside of that?????
New User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
The truck starts fine. The ignition turns back normally. I can even take the key out of the ignition. But the engine remains running as if I didn't turn the ignition off at all.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Do the accessories turn off with the key?
We are asking to see if it is a broken actuator rod or if the ignition is backfeeding from the alternator.
We are asking to see if it is a broken actuator rod or if the ignition is backfeeding from the alternator.
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New User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 5
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No, nothing turns off. The truck just stays running as normal. Like I said earlier I'm thinking it's the relay switch. Doesn't the relay switch tell the engine block to turn off? I've also read some things about a bad diode at the alternator?? Does that sound plausible?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
If the starter kept cranking it would be the relay.
If only the engine didn't shut off, it could be the alternator/ignition.
If all the accessories stay on it is most likely the ignition switch on the column.
Either your switch is suddenly WAY out of adjustment or the ignition actuator is broken.
This is much more common with tilt wheel columns, but not unheard of in a regular steering assembly.
Get down under the dash and find the ignition switch screwed to the top of the steering column.
See if you can reach above it and pull the rod back to the off position.
Remember Accy. is beyond off and lock.
If only the engine didn't shut off, it could be the alternator/ignition.
If all the accessories stay on it is most likely the ignition switch on the column.
Either your switch is suddenly WAY out of adjustment or the ignition actuator is broken.
This is much more common with tilt wheel columns, but not unheard of in a regular steering assembly.
Get down under the dash and find the ignition switch screwed to the top of the steering column.
See if you can reach above it and pull the rod back to the off position.
Remember Accy. is beyond off and lock.
New User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
If the starter kept cranking it would be the relay.
If only the engine didn't shut off, it could be the alternator/ignition.
If all the accessories stay on it is most likely the ignition switch on the column.
Either your switch is suddenly WAY out of adjustment or the ignition actuator is broken.
This is much more common with tilt wheel columns, but not unheard of in a regular steering assembly.
Get down under the dash and find the ignition switch screwed to the top of the steering column.
See if you can reach above it and pull the rod back to the off position.
Remember Accy. is beyond off and lock.
If only the engine didn't shut off, it could be the alternator/ignition.
If all the accessories stay on it is most likely the ignition switch on the column.
Either your switch is suddenly WAY out of adjustment or the ignition actuator is broken.
This is much more common with tilt wheel columns, but not unheard of in a regular steering assembly.
Get down under the dash and find the ignition switch screwed to the top of the steering column.
See if you can reach above it and pull the rod back to the off position.
Remember Accy. is beyond off and lock.
New User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
I put in the Duraspark II in last weekend after swapping the solenoid with one with the "I" terminal it stays running but really rough. i could not find a smooth idle within range of the distributor adjustment going to look for vacuum leaks this weekend and confirm TDC. I could not find a harness so i ordered the painless harness with an addin ceramic ballast resistor (DuraSpark II Ignition HarnessDetails | Painless Performance)
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