2006 f250 6.0 4x4. 2 in leveling kit 33" tires.

Literally no idea what the truck has or hasn't had done. I bought it for 2k running and driving well and in good overall condition so I wasn't inclined to pursue the history.

Here's what I've done so far.
Nothing.

Seriously I need advice. I've done everything to make it a pretty truck including new paint and interior. Now I want it to be mechanically sound.

I'm good mechanically but I've never worked on a diesel. If I can figure out the problems I can fix them. Diagnostics is the issue.

No check engine light is on. So here goes.

First there's an oil leak. It must be pretty bad because there's a ton of it. Trying to figure out how to isolate the source of the problem there.

Next it takes a while to start. Like a good 5-6 seconds if it's warm and a good 10 if not. Not sure if that's a problem or not.

Truck has never been chipped from what have been told but is like to do the egr delete, head studs, etc.

Would like to know the best order to do those in as finances come.

Any other tips on owning a 6.0 and preventative maintenance for them is much appreciated.

Thanks a ton.

 

Get a gauge that reads live data from the PCM it will help you to diag any problems you may have see your delta and check the health of high pressure oil system, ficm (fuel injection control module) and charging system.

 

Go online and buy the Edge Insight CTS. Just do it. you paid big $$ for the truck you can spend the 350$ to buy this. Will tell you every PID the ECU produces. And yes FICM voltage, Oil temp, ICP pressure are big ones to investigate right off the bat.

 

The guys have you covered on gauges and they are a must have, if you go with the Edge Insight CTS make sure you get the EAS ( edge accessory system ) EGT probe so you can add things like a fuel pressure sensor or a lpo pressure sensor. Next make sure you are only running OEM oil/fuel/air filters and make sure you have an OEM oil filter cap. Watch this video on OEM vs aftermarket filters and you will see what an aftermarket oil filter cap looks like and the problems it can cause.


The upgrades needed on an 06' are as follows, standpipes, dummy plugs and STC fitting. The way to tell if you already have the updated pipes and plugs is they take a 12MM hex bit to remove them if they are the originals they take a 10MM hex. The STC fitting has been know to fail and cause no starts and they can even break the rear engine cover which requires either the transmission or engine be removed to access the rear cover. You should also install the blue spring upgrade for the fuel pressure regulator.

As far as head studs are concerned, there is no way I would tear apart a perfectly running engine with no issues to install ARP studs unless you plan on running a monster tune, otherwise just leave the head gaskets alone they will tell you when they need to be done ( puking coolant out of the degas bottle )and at that time you can do the studs. You may never need head gaskets done, I have been running SCT canned tow tunes for over 2 years and 20K miles and do not have head studs.

I would also recommend you have your transmission serviced at the dealer with a heated flush machine and make sure they change the external transmission filter that is located behind the lower part of the passenger side radiator support.


The EGR delete is an excellent idea if you do not have to pass emissions and tampering inspection, if you do have emissions requirements you can do a stealth delete whereby you weld stainless plugs on the exhaust inlet and outlet of the EGR cooler but you will need an SCT tuner that will shut off the check engine light.

 

This board can be a big help, but the more information you can provide the better you can narrow down the issues.

Your crank times are long. A healthy 6.0 should fire right off.

I am in the "EGR cooler must be deleted" club. My head bolts have never been touched, FWIW.

 

Check the CAC tube boots on the hot side tube for oil leaking. The CCV system routes blowby gasses that contain some oil to the turbo's compressor inlet; that oil gets to the outlet and into the CAC tube. The boots are known to develop small splits that will open up during boost. Just grab around the boots and see if you get dirty... one from turbo to hot side tube, the other boot from the hot side tube to the CAC.

I just replaced mine; after a bunch of research, I ended up buying the ones recommended by most folks on this forum: Riff Raff. It's about $90 but better than a rear main seal job...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...heres-why.html


2nd idea: at your first oil change, have a fumoto valve on hand to install.