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I've used all oils and all filters and never an issue.
The biggest issue is with the oil filter. Ford and all car builders are trying NOT to pay out warranty money and they can hold up a claim if they determine that the improper filter was used. I don;t trust Ford or any of them for one minute and the MC oil and filters are no more expensive than any other.
OK lots of opinions flying here so I want to provide some balanced input:
1. Pennzoil full synthetic oil: not as bad as everyone thinks. Several domestic OEM's use this in hi-po vehicles from the factory. Manufacturer testing indicates this oil has the same lubrication properties as Mobil 1 but at a lower cost. My subjective opinion is I would never use it because I like valvoline and ammsoil. But that's just me.
Oil Filters: ALWAYS use an OEM filter. Yes there are filters with better filtration properties. However, if a filter 'Catches' More particulate without increasing element size it may clog sooner, bypass, and you're pumping Unfiltered oil thru engine. All engines are tested thoroughly with OEM filter, and it will work as intended every time all the time on that engine. Also, avoid filters with texture paint like the plague. During shipping it breaks off canister and makes its way into the filter. This is why you won't find an OEM filter with it.... If that texture makes it into the filter, you just injected silica sand into your engine... Which is no good if you value crank and rod bearings.
Pennzoil is one of the best oils on the market today. The info is available from PQIA if you want to look up specifications on conventional or synthetic oils. The NOACK values of Pennzoil are pretty much unmatched. That said any oil that meets the SN GF-5 specification will work well in your vehicle. Personally I use Pennzoil. They all cost about the same why not use the one with the best specs?
For the money it's hard to beat a Motorcraft oil filter but there are other good ones on the market as well. I just try to stay away from the orange Frams and the Champion labs ecore ones. Too many reported failures for me to risk just to save $1 or less.
Ford does not build the motorcraft filter or blend the oil. There's no magic to it. Conoco/Phillips blends the oil and Purolater makes the filter.
Pennzoil is one of the best oils on the market today. The info is available from PQIA if you want to look up specifications on conventional or synthetic oils. The NOACK values of Pennzoil are pretty much unmatched. That said any oil that meets the SN GF-5 specification will work well in your vehicle. Personally I use Pennzoil. They all cost about the same why not use the one with the best specs?
For the money it's hard to beat a Motorcraft oil filter but there are other good ones on the market as well. I just try to stay away from the orange Frams and the Champion labs ecore ones. Too many reported failures for me to risk just to save $1 or less.
Ford does not build the motorcraft filter or blend the oil. There's no magic to it. Conoco/Phillips blends the oil and Purolater makes the filter.
I think a lot of the misconceptions about pennzoil is because they used too (and still may) use parafyn wax in the oil. Basically, after a significant amount of miles, engines over heating, not changing oil in time etc. The parafyn wax precipitates out of the oil and adheres itself to anything it can... I.e. engine sludge. I'm pretty sure their synthetics do not contain parafyn, anyone know for certain?
I think a lot of the misconceptions about pennzoil is because they used too (and still may) use parafyn wax in the oil. Basically, after a significant amount of miles, engines over heating, not changing oil in time etc. The parafyn wax precipitates out of the oil and adheres itself to anything it can... I.e. engine sludge. I'm pretty sure their synthetics do not contain parafyn, anyone know for certain?
You mean the paraffin crude they use for base oil? Then all the other conventionals are just as likely to cause sludge. That myth has been around forever. It's possible that years ago it did cause engines to sludge up. It's also possible that years ago all oils were of lower quality and sludged up engines with Pennzoil taking the majority of the blame being the #1 seller for what seems like forever. It's more likely that the horrible cylinder head and cooling system designs of the day were the culprit.
You mean the paraffin crude they use for base oil? Then all the other conventionals are just as likely to cause sludge. That myth has been around forever. It's possible that years ago it did cause engines to sludge up. It's also possible that years ago all oils were of lower quality and sludged up engines with Pennzoil taking the majority of the blame being the #1 seller for what seems like forever. It's more likely that the horrible cylinder head and cooling system designs of the day were the culprit.
Entirely possible but I do believe there is a wax agent listed on the bottle, I could have sworn it said parafyn wax but there is also a high probability I'm mistaken, haven't touched the stuff in 12 years. But regardless, Pennzoil full synthetic is used by OEMs in notable cars and engines with cam-in-cam technology so it definitely isn't as bad as the perception... Otherwise an OEM wouldn't touch it in the days of 100k power train warranties
I recommend the read, this is pretty close to what I learned in school. Also explains why Pennzoil synthetic wouldn't have the same properties as conventional oil.
I have never heard of an ash based oil. Unless the guy is talking about sulfated ash, which is something you want to avoid. I wouldn't trush much from someone saying a 5w oil is way too thin for a performance engine. I guess all the european cars using a 0w40 or 5w40 are not as "performance" as a big block chevy. All About Oil
This is more along the lines of what I have been told over the years. Granted it is aimed at motorcycles but the basics are there. Or you could read for months on bobistheoilguy.com and learn way way more than you ever needed or wanted to know. In the end it's the manufacturers specs that are important. If you're oil meets those for your vehicle you're good to go.
I have never heard of an ash based oil. Unless the guy is talking about sulfated ash, which is something you want to avoid. I wouldn't trush much from someone saying a 5w oil is way too thin for a performance engine. I guess all the european cars using a 0w40 or 5w40 are not as "performance" as a big block chevy. All About Oil
This is more along the lines of what I have been told over the years. Granted it is aimed at motorcycles but the basics are there. Or you could read for months on bobistheoilguy.com and learn way way more than you ever needed or wanted to know. In the end it's the manufacturers specs that are important. If you're oil meets those for your vehicle you're good to go.
the ash is not part of the oil, it is a byproduct of oil residue in the combustion chamber turning to ash during the combustion stroke, old Lycoming and Continentle aircraft engines specify A/D oil, as in ashless dispersant oils made by Shell and Phillips 66.
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