Hello Folks:

Could you please weigh in on my dilemma? The quick facts are as follows:

Current truck is 66 lwb custom cab with 4 speed 300 inline 6 with original gearing. I have the common frustration of limited functionality on the highway due to reaching high RPMs by 58 mph. I also have the common problem of so-so brakes with the single circuit master cylinder (drums front and back). I have found and test drove a 78 mercury cougar with a 302 auto, 4 bbl, and power brakes. Drives like a dream, motor is sound, brakes are solid.

Questions for you guys:
1. would I be able to canibalize the front disk brakes from the Mercury?
2. would I be able to keep my truck appearing "stock" with a column shifter for the transplanted 302?
3. would there be a big difference in fuel economy with the 302?


On a similar thread, JO Wilker advised someone to look for a 73-79 F100 to get a 302 and auto. Curious if this mercury would partially fit the bill. I'm a novice mechanic and would just be helping a friend/colleague do the heavy lifting. Any of your perspectives would be helpful.

Thanks very much.....Idaho

 

If your 300 runs well, its not going to save you any money to swap engines.

The brakes are a no-go. You need F100/F150 disc brakes.

I rebuilt the drums on my 66 and added a booster, it stops just fine. At some point I will do the disc swap, but she has made it 48 years with the drums, so I figure she cam make it a few more.

IMO the best bang for the buck is to swap rear gears. Im installing a set of 2.75 gears out of a 76 F150 in my 66 352/3spd, I currently have 3.25 gears. I will have about $100 in the gear swap when finished. That should drop my engine rpms at 70mph from 2700rpm to 2240rpm. That's with a 235/75R15 tire.

 

This is really helpful and informs my decision Shadowrider. Much appreciated. I was thinking I could save big money on the spendy drum-to-disc conversion kits, but from what you indicate I couldn't. Agree with your observation on taller gears; that's certainly in the works if I retain the 300.

A side issue relates to getting lazy and leaning towards an automatic in the rig. Guess I'll sleep on it and see what conclusion I reach. Do you have a single or two circuit master cylinder in your truck?

thanks again, Idaho

 

If the 300 runs well, why not spend the money on some performance upgrades on the 300. I have been TOLD that if you use a stock 2b carb off a 360 or 390, and use the exhaust manifolds off a 300 I6 efi. That is suppose to improve flow, add power, and not effect fuel economy very much

 

Do you have a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck? First thing is to find out your gear ratio; hopefully the tag is on the rear end. A 2.75 or 3.00 gear ratio with 15" tires should be good for either a 300 six or 302 V8 so that would be a good starting point.

 

Doug, No, No, & No. Your best option is swap rear gear ratios to a lower gear. Not very costly and will help mpgs.

The auto tranny is a must for me, damn a full grown Ford truck that can't shift his own gears. I don't care for the sound of a I6, so a V is my choice. Many guys luv their 6 bangers, and that is OK by me.

Get your arms around what you want in your truck. You are going to have to stick with 73-79 for bolt hole power steering and disc brakes.

I am not stuck on original looks, so I might look at something much newer. Engine/tranny 2010 or newer. Got to have auto OD.

Start putting a plan together then work your plan.


John

 

Hello John and others:

Thanks for your timely responses. I am developing a vision for where to take my truck, but for now am sticking with the 300 and going with taller gears. Eventually will go in the direction of an auto 302 so will keep my eyes out for the right low mileage 73-79 F100/150 with all the compatible parts.

Again, thanks for all the information!

best, Idaho

 

If I were to go the route I want to go it would be a 351 with an AOD.

The problem is the 352 runs to good to justify replacing it.

The advantage you have is the 4 speed. You will get the benefit of the taller gears but still have a low gear for pulling.

Used 300 performance parts pop up on CL and ebay all the time. You should be able to do some nice upgrades to the 300 without putting a big dent in the bank account.

 

Keep the 300, it has more torque than the anemic 302 that barely has enough torque to pull a sick trollop off a porcelain device.

Look for a 1973/79 F100 2WD, 1975/79 F150 2WD to get the P/S and disc brakes from. If you want A/T, 1973/77's came with C4's. Some 1978/79's came with C4's, some came with C6's.

IMO: Forget the AOD which was introduced in 1981 F100/150's. This was the worst turd of an A/T foisted on mankind by FoMoCo, worse even than the made by frogs A4LD.

Figure about 3 grand to overhaul it, install the largest trans cooler you can find, because heat is the mortal enemy of this turd.

 

Mr. Wilson, I am aware of what you speak, but I believe Ford made improvements along the way and the 90s truck AOD was a much better critter. NO??????

I am going to suggest OD for slowing the engines down anytime that I can.


John

 

If ND doesn't have a copyright on that little gem of a saying, I'm working it into the conversation at Thanksgiving Dinner this year!

 

I agree a 300 performs just as well as a 302 if not better; but AOD is the right choice for daily drivers especially highway speeds. Drive my 63 with 302 AOD anywhere; verse my old C6 302 I had in a 65 truck. But gear ratio is always a factor!!!

 

I had a 78 ford van with a 300 six and a 3 speed with overdrive and a 3.00 gear ratio. The overdrive was pretty useless except on flat ground since it brought the RPMs to abour 1,600. The direct drive RPM was 2,100 with the stock 235-75-15 tires.

West Coast Differentials has a online calculator where you can match tire size and gear ratio to arrive at the operating RPM.

Clifford makes a dual plane intake manifold for 4 barrel carburetors for the six and Ford fuel injected 300 sixes have a dual exhaust manifold that can bring the six alive.

Right now I am on my fourth 66 longbed; with a warmed up 460, C6 and 2.75 gears. My previous one had a 302, C6 and 3.25 gears, which my grandson now drives. A nice peppy driver with 78 brakes and power steering. My original (new) was a 352 3speed w/OD (don't know the gear ratio)

 

This is the RUG SR-OD Single Rail 4 Speed Overdrive.

During the first Arab Oil Embargo (1973/74), people for the first time since WWII were concerned about MPG. Second Arab Oil Embargo occurred in 1979.

Ford began installing this trans in 1977 misc passenger cars with 200/302 in an effort to increase MPG, used thru 1983.

Installed in E150 300/302/351W & F100/150 300/302 beginning in 1978 for the same reason, increased MPG.

Used thru 1983 in E/F100/150. E100's were reintroduced in 1979.

1984/89: RTS TS-OD Top Shift 4 Speed Overdrive replaced the RUG SR-OD. Installed in E/F100/150 & Bronco.
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John: AOD introduced in 1980 302 LTD/Grand Marquis/Town Car/Cougar/Thunderbird/Continental Mark VI & 1981 E/F100/150 300/302.

Dumb-*** sales peeps told the purchasers, if asked, place the shift lever in O = In other words, drive in Overdrive full time.

But, if the dumb-*** sales peeps and the purchasers had read the owners manuals, FoMoCo clearly stated: Do not drive in Overdrive in heavy traffic, on hills or when towing. Drive in D in these situations.

Here in LA LA Land, people drove in Overdrive in heavy stop-and-go traffic. The constant shifting up/down - in/out of Overdrive fried the AOD's guts and it didn't take too long for this to occur either!

 

Idaho you really should put a 302 in it...then you can sell me your 300