So does the 74. It currently has a 12V Cummins sitting in the back, under a tarp.
It does rather well when towing too. Much better than when Dad bought it off the lot in 74.........

 

Well, I guess I will go this route and try to get the head with the CJ. Since I have to buy a head (broken @ the exhaust) and then do a new valve job... It might be cheaper to get those on Ebay and they are only 2:30 hours from home, I could do the trip and save on the shipping.

Then I have a dumb question I was looking to put the engine on the stand this morning, and I saw I could only put 2 bolt where the bell housing bolt goes, is this correct?
Also there is like 4 plugs who can be remove with a allen key, should I remove those before putting the engine on the stand? They will not be accessible after..

 

The bell housing is off,Right?
you should have 4 bolts into the block .. All plugs will have to be removed before you have it tanked and magnifluxed to make sure you have a block worthy of the build

 

Nice on the cummins .. All I could afford is a built 340 hp 460 in the F350 dually .. That's what I use mostly for towing but a cummins swap is out of the question for now .. Still adding on to the house etc.

 

Due to scoring good deals on both the Cummins and NV4500, I expect to have less invested in the swap than what a built 460 usually runs. It does help that I work as a mechanic, and we do speak diesel truck. I just did a major rework on a sick-o (6.0L PSD). Jobs like that, really add to the Cummins swap budget.......
This swap is going into an 80 F150. But, once it's all done, I could easily move the entire package to a heavier chassis, should I want to.....

 

That's going to be nice

 

Happy Memorial Day,
Thanks to all the vet, without those heroes I will probably speak German now!

Do you guys think this will be a good choice, reconditioned crankshaft? $200
Crankshafts

And what about those rods? $280
Connecting Rods

I mean I don't want to rebuilt an engine and having last 20 000 miles, I rather take more time to rebuild it and make sure it will last and I don't know about reconditioned part, what do you guys think?

Yesterday I put the engine on the stand and start to open it up.
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Thanks for the Memorial day wish

The rods you have can be reconditioned and with some new ARP bolts will be plenty good .. As long as your crank hasn't spun a bearing then having it reconditioned is also good .. You will save your self a couple $100 and end up in the same place

 

Reconditioned parts are fine, as long as they are done correctly. That supplier specializes in FE stuff, so I would imagine they are done very right.

If you bought used parts, you would take them to a machine shop for reconditioning, and it would cost you about the same or more than the prices you posted, to get a good job.

 

He has a 360, and wants to build it into a 390.

 

Ah right I forgot that small detail thanks

 

Here is a pretty detailed list of machine shop costs to compare with your local machine shop

Engine House: engine house, crankshafts, engine block, cylinder head, connecting rod, automotive machine shop,

If you are talking to the guy on those heads from above since he is retiring he might have a set of reconditioned rods for cheap and other FE parts you may need .. If you run into any other 390 stuff you need I have 2 complete 390 parts motors .. Just let me know

 

Thanks for the link Redroad, really useful, it will help me not getting ripped off by the first engine shop!

Here is how my engine mount look like, they were both like that:
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The piston have a 360 stamp on it, does the 390 pistons are different?
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Also all the rod have a mark on top from 1 to 8, is it a factory thing or someone already replace things in the engine.
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The connecting rod have the casting number C7TE.

 

Glad to know I can trust the reconditioned part, and this shop Survival Motorsprots is own by Barry Rubotnik a FE gourou..

Do you have any trick to remove the pulley?
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This looks like a pretty good buy complete harmonic balancer puller set http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-CJ-98C-Harmonic-Balancer-Steering-Wheel-Puller-Set-/141298118015?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e6062d7f
Motor mounts are cheap about $5 each @ Rock auto

The best way to tell whether the block has been bored is to have the cylinder bores measured when you take it to get it tanked and magnifluxed .. Have them measure while its still on the transport vehicle .. That way you know whether to take it in for further work or not .. Or if you know some one who has the tools to measure the bores you can have them help you