Suggestions...up pipe install
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,648
Likes: 893
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
Suggestions...up pipe install
Well, seeing as we were projected to have a nice day I decided to tackle the bellowed up pipe install. And as those of you in northern climates whose highway department uses "deicer" on the roads, you can guess that I've ran into a problem. Oh, I have the nuts off the exhaust manifold to up pipe off...no issues there. The issue is that the bolt is seized to the exhaust manifold. I have been able to twist one off, leaving a "stud".
PB Blaster? Yeah right. I've heated the ex manifold cherry red and then tried...nope. Apply heat and persuade with a hammer...no joy. I've spray more PB perfume on them...I'll heat and apply more, heat/apply more...persuade.
Is this how it's going to be?
Thoughts?
PB Blaster? Yeah right. I've heated the ex manifold cherry red and then tried...nope. Apply heat and persuade with a hammer...no joy. I've spray more PB perfume on them...I'll heat and apply more, heat/apply more...persuade.
Is this how it's going to be?
Thoughts?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,760
Likes: 27
From: Hampton, Maryland.
Bolt the bottom bolts that attach the pipes to the manifolds loosely then tighten up the clamp on the turbo, then go back under and tighten the ones to the manifold, or you will have a heck of a time lining up on the turbo.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,648
Likes: 893
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
...Delete ped on, turbo on, spider on, lower manifold bolts loose yet.I noticed a small fuel leak on the ITP regulated return...researching now.
And as long as the CAC tubing is off, changing out the rusty power steering lines. Probably have to remove the AIS as well for better access though.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 870
Likes: 9
From: Carbondale, CO
I found a nice procedure on the Riffraff site. Still a pain, need that third arm coming right out of your chest. ...Delete ped on, turbo on, spider on, lower manifold bolts loose yet.
I noticed a small fuel leak on the ITP regulated return...researching now.
And as long as the CAC tubing is off, changing out the rusty power steering lines. Probably have to remove the AIS as well for better access though.
...Delete ped on, turbo on, spider on, lower manifold bolts loose yet.I noticed a small fuel leak on the ITP regulated return...researching now.
And as long as the CAC tubing is off, changing out the rusty power steering lines. Probably have to remove the AIS as well for better access though.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,648
Likes: 893
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
That line has been replaced as part of the ITP regulated return.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,648
Likes: 893
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
Of the four all the nuts came off, I sawed the passenger side bolts off...at least one of them, the other about 3/4 thru. The sawed through one, no issues....12mm socket on a should have been 13mm head spun right out. Twisted the upper passenger side off, leaving a stud.
The drivers side I couldn't get a saw up to, again the nuts came right off. Rust had changed the head size though.
PB Blaster? Yeah I soaked them a couple days ahead of time, drove it, soaked them again, drove it. I know some of you have good luck with it, but I don't.
I lit the torch up, heated the exhaust manifold cherry red, hustled out from underneath and tried using a 3/4" rod as a punch driven been a 2lb hammer. Got one, the upper on the pass side. The drivers side I had the best luck heating the manifold and then grabbing the stud with a locking pliers and very slowly got some movement. Just worked them back and forth until they were loose and spun them out.
Heat, I like heat.
That is the hardest part of the job.
The drivers side I couldn't get a saw up to, again the nuts came right off. Rust had changed the head size though.
PB Blaster? Yeah I soaked them a couple days ahead of time, drove it, soaked them again, drove it. I know some of you have good luck with it, but I don't.
I lit the torch up, heated the exhaust manifold cherry red, hustled out from underneath and tried using a 3/4" rod as a punch driven been a 2lb hammer. Got one, the upper on the pass side. The drivers side I had the best luck heating the manifold and then grabbing the stud with a locking pliers and very slowly got some movement. Just worked them back and forth until they were loose and spun them out.
Heat, I like heat.
That is the hardest part of the job.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
From: Hagerstown, MD
We've had tremendous success with a penetrating oil made by a company called Kimball Midwest in Ohio. It may be hard for some to get ahold of and maybe not worth it but I've had it do some pretty amazing things. Far superior to Aero Kroil, PB or any other brand I've used.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 334
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Some times after you heat up a nut you can use a squeeze bottle of plain tap water to 'shock' it in to breaking free. The key is to concentrate your, heat and then the water, on the nut.
I like to save an old gear lube bottle with its nozzle in place for a squeeze bottle.
I like to save an old gear lube bottle with its nozzle in place for a squeeze bottle.
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