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I've searched for a while on the forum what I'm doing is rebuilding the 5.8 in my 94 f-250 I live in Md and tagged historic so no emissions. My engine I'm building looks nice and I don't want to put that ugly egr and other unwanted emissions crapp back on. I want to do away with the smog as well. I need help with what belt I need the truck doesn't have ac and I want to get rid of the emissions period I don't want it plugged or anything to keep the engine bay neat.
Please help
First, tampering with emissions systems is a federal crime. It does not matter that you have historic tags or are emissions exempt. Removing emissions equipment on a vehicle that came with it from the factory is illegal. End of story.
Second, your engine is designed to work together with all those components in place and working. If you start taking stuff off, the computer will not be expecting it and will not know how to adjust. Performance and fuel economy will both suffer.
Third, removing emissions equipment will not make the engine run any better. See above; it will likely run worse.
I guess you get points for having a "neat" engine bay but I don't really see how it's worth all the hassle. The reason for removing emissions equipment almost always stems from a lack of knowledge about how those systems actually work and what they do.
The problem that we are dealing with is that Ford engineered these systems in such a way that IF some part DOES fail, the computer will keep the engine running "well enough" to still drive the vehicle but it will trigger the "Check Engine" light to warn the driver that even though the vehicle still APPEARS to be running properly, there is something amiss. Running this way for extended periods of time WILL eventually cause bigger problems unless its fixed. What folks who arbitrarily remove parts of the system FAIL to accept is the FACT that just because you remove or ignore the Check Engine light (or put tape over it...which is my personal favorite uneducated maneuver) does NOT mean the engine is "running fine" and further it means that whatever the EEC-IV computer is doing to compensate WILL cause other problems that WILL be worse in the long run. Remember the EEC-IV computer controls fuel-air ratio and spark timing along with shift points (E4OD only). Anyone who knows anything about internal combustion engines knows that these settings/adjustments are critical and failure to maintain them results in terrible problems if not immediately, then definitely over extended periods of time. When you are dealing with a vehicle where the ONLY way to be certain that these adjustments are correct is to make certain the on-board computer has ALL of the information it needs, maintaining ALL of the sources of that information becomes as critical as spark timing and fuel/air mixture. These are the FACTS.
I know how they work I know it's against federal laws. There is a reason I asked not to hear someone say all the things I didn't want to hear. That's the problem with these forums you ask a question and people want to tell you all the things wrong with what your doing when they could just help you find the answers your looking for. The engine when I removed it already had the egr tube blocked off from the heads and manifolds from the previous owner and the smog pump was squealing upon engine removal. I'm not paying for useless parts I am already in a decent amount of money and time on the engine. Either way since the egr already wasn't hooked up I don't want it on the engine period and the vacuum lines were all brittle no need to run the stuff. I don't care about fed laws if you have a problem with my opinion on the fed report me to them
The solenoids for the AIR system will need to remain electrically connected in order to prevent the MIL from coming on. If that's still too much, put a carb on like everyone else here is racing to do.
You can remove the EGR and just block the plate on the intake, however this will result in a check engine light being on all the time. If you wanted to get around the check engine light then you would need a way to reprogram the PCM and tell the PCM the EGR is no longer present. You can do the same with the TAD and TAB devices as well (to clean things up). If you don't have a way to reprogram the PCM to turn off the check engine light then you'll either need to leave the EGR installed or you can remove it (cover up EGR port on the intake) and then leave the EGR valve attached but tucked some place out of the way.
I am not sure what size belt you will need but if nobody answers to tell you, then I'd suggest just getting something to measure what you need and then look the belt by size...this is what I did.
That's the problem with these forums you ask a question and people want to tell you all the things wrong with what your doing when they could just help you find the answers your looking for.
The reason for that is because many times people come in here asking the wrong questions. People sometimes have a pre-determined solution that they need help implementing, but their solution is frequently wrong or unworkable. In that case, instead of helping someone implement the wrong solution, it's better to take a step back and try to solve the problem the correct way.
Removing emissions components is never the correct solution.
The bottom line is that your engine will never run optimally without all the components that it was designed to have from the factory.
The solenoids for the AIR system will need to remain electrically connected in order to prevent the MIL from coming on. If that's still too much, put a carb on like everyone else here is racing to do.
I would have put a carb on if it was a manual trans I just built the e4od a year and a half ago.
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