radiator support
97 ford ranger,
2 wheel drive, 2.3L Manuel. i dont know how to post a photo from my computer on here
97 ford ranger,
2 wheel drive, 2.3L Manuel. i dont know how to post a photo from my computer on here
If it's just the radiator support that needs replacing and not some other issue with the frame or inner fenders then you shouldn't need a welder or grinder to replace it, just a drill to go through the factory spot welds then a rivet tool to attach the new one. Radiator supports run about $100 on Ebay and mine took about 2 weeks worth of nights and weekends to install. It's a big job but definitely something you can handle without specialty tools. Looking around online a radiator support replacement ran somewhere in the neighborhood of $800-$1000 so tackling it on your own might be well worth the effort.
WTF?! Body mounts rusted off front clip - The Ranger Station Forums
If it's just the radiator support that needs replacing and not some other issue with the frame or inner fenders then you shouldn't need a welder or grinder to replace it, just a drill to go through the factory spot welds then a rivet tool to attach the new one. Radiator supports run about $100 on Ebay and mine took about 2 weeks worth of nights and weekends to install. It's a big job but definitely something you can handle without specialty tools. Looking around online a radiator support replacement ran somewhere in the neighborhood of $800-$1000 so tackling it on your own might be well worth the effort.
WTF?! Body mounts rusted off front clip - The Ranger Station Forums
ok that sounds like a good idea. i got price for close to $500 to do the work and i think that's still to much. will a rivit gun make a strong enough connection?
Some things to keep in mind:
- Before you remove the old support measure from the hood release straight back to a point on the firewall that you can remember when putting the new radiator support in. This is a critical point to make sure the hood latches correctly. If that alignment is already off from the crash then worst case you might need to file the hood's attachment hole a little so it lines up with the release.
- You will have to remove the front 2 body mounts so it might be a good time to replace all 6 if they're still original. Those tend to turn into rusty lumps. A reciprocating saw can be helpful to cut those out. There are other ways but that's usually worked best for me.
- It is a LOT of work but definitely doable if you keep at it. As an amateur working out of my garage it took about 20 hours including the body mounts.
Good luck, keep us posted.
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hopefully this works and thank you for the advise to post theses.
this is a few days old. day after the accident happened. like i said almost everything is stripped off now. ill take more photos here in a few once its light out. i have everything i need ordered some parts get here tomorrow.
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The fenders are disconnected as well and the fan. But Ii dont know how to do two things still: i cant see where to grind the core support tack welds and i dont know how to get a tool to the lower fenders screw that attach the fender to the header panel. its in a tight spot for sure i can barely see it.
I believe that’s because 2 times a year (once in spring and once in fall) I wash the entire underbody with a hot water pressure washer and then coat the entire underbody (and every area that’s not externally exposed) with fluid film to protect it from rust.








