In short, I have a 1950 F-1, with a 390 and a C-6. after that, the previous owner didn't get around to the rear end, so it screams at about 55 or 60. So following, is what I've gathered about my options:

1. I've looked at the rears off the 72(?) truck as an option, but that would still leave me with no power anything and I would still have to change the gears for decent cruising speed.

2. The Ranger frame swap, off a mid 80's regular cab longbed. This would provide power steering, brakes, etc. But with two problems. first, I would have to get engine mounts for a 302 or 390 welded in, and second, Ive heard that it requires fabrication of some brackets for the body and running board mounts. If anybody has any experience with this, please let me know how hard it was, how long it took, and what tools you used.

3. This one is the touchy subject. A frame swap with a 78-79 Thunderbird. Some say EASY as pie and others say they wouldn't touch it with ten foot pole. Benefits are power everything, plus some of these came with 390's I beleive or at lest 302's, so the mounts would be readily available for either motor. If you have had any experience with this or can get me in touch with someone who does, please let me know. Thanks.

Thanks for all the interesting info on your restorations. I'm sure that A LOT of it will come in handy in the coming months. Thanks again.

Paul
1950 F-1
390 w/ a C-6
Overpowered and undergeared

 

Paul,

Of the options you mentioned the Ranger swap would be the most difficult and time consuming. I would not attempt that one. I've read some comments about using the T-bird clip, so that may be a possibility. Before you make up your mind look into other options like AMC Pacer, Aerostar, Camaro/Monte Carlo, Volare, Dakota, and Mustang II. If I omitted any, sombody will jump in here and let me know. I, personally, like the Chrysler torsion bar suspension under these trucks than anything else. Most of these clips will give you power steering and disc brakes with possibly the exception of the Mustang II.

As long as the original frame isn't too hacked up, it will be much easier to change the rear and clip the front than to try a whole frame swap...

 

I just bought a 3.73 posi rear w/ disc brakes from a '96 Explorer for $650 from a local "auto recycler" and have it bolted to my new rear spring set up in my '55 F-100 project. I'm still at the a ways from driving this truck but the rear end was the simplest thing I've done yet.

 

Did you have to weld in new spring perches, or were the ones on the Explorer rear good to go? Also, have you done any front suspension upgrades yet? If so or if you have studied this, could you tell me what you have found out. Thanks.

 

Paul,
I agree with Vern. I'd keep the original frame so long as it's not too hacked up and just change the rear end and front clip. Changing rear end gears is not too difficult or expensive even if you have a shop do it for you. What gears are you considering? What gears do you have in it now? If it "winds" at 55, you likely have 4.11's or lower. Taller gears with the 390 motor are an obvious solution (2.72; 3.0; 3.08).

Regarding the front clip, Vern gave you a list of options. Much of your decision will depend on if you want your front end "slammed" or not. For adjustability, go with a torsion bar setup like the Volare or to air bag the front. This is not as expensive as it used to be and allows for on-call adjustability of ride height.

Good luck and welcome to FTE!!!
Daryl
'59 F100 with '88 Dodge Dakota IFS

Daryl

 

I bought the complete suspension/brake plumbing kit from Zig's that included a Mustang II type IFS w/ discs, rear springs & brackets and brake plumbing parts. The IFS went it pretty easily. I worked as a line mechanic in a dealership many years ago so I'm pretty handy mechanically (at least I'm not afraid of taking something on as long as I have enough time to do it right) but this was the first major welding I've done other than the sheet metal repairs on the truck's cab. The Explorer spring perches had to be cut off because they were an inch or so too wide on both sides. The kit has the new perches. I just have the rear tightened in with the U-bolts now until I can get the engine/trans/driveshaft in place to set the pinon angle. Once I have the angle right I'll weld the axle to the perches.