UPDATE: I drove it some last night and no problems. I let it idle in gear and no dieing. The only thing I did do before driving was check the wire in the steering column to see if it was shorted but found nothing.

 

Check your battery ground cable. About 1/2 way down the cut the coating and crimped a tab on that bolts to the frame. Ours was green and corroded. I put a new cable on to the starter and another cable from the starter to the frame. Check any ground straps from the engine or tranny to the frame or body. Good luck.

 

The original problem discussed in this thread sounds a lot like the issues I was having a few weeks ago, that went on for a couple months. I had the dealer scan codes and they came up with P0720 and P0722. They also just mentioned that cyclinder number 7 was missing, but didn't note it on the readout. The codes indicate a problem with the speed sensor circuitry. I started down the path of replacing the speed sensor, but it was pretty difficult to get to. I took it to our local shop. Told him all the issues and what the dealer had found. When I mentioned the misfire on the cylinder, he said he had seen that before. Something about the routing of the #7 cylinder (on the V-10 gas) causes the speed sensor circuitry to appear to cause a problem. He replaced all the spark plugs, just because it had been a while and the ignition coil on the #7 cylinder. Fixed the problem completely.

 

Thanks guys, I will check those things out.

 

UPDATE: I thought I would check the plug boots and springs today on the drivers side. I could not find anything out of the ordinary except I noticed a lot of dust and like fine sand in the plug wells. I tried to blow them out but I did not have my compressor close. I did manage to damage one boot trying to get it off the plug, I put it back together, but it looks like a new set of plugs, boots, and springs are in the near future. It won't stay running at all now. Is there anyway to tell for sure if your boots and springs are properly seated on the plug? It has 119,000 miles and as long as I have owned it, it has never had new plugs. It is probably due.

 

Update: I changed the plugs, boots, & springs tonight and took it for a 3 mile drive to my Mother-in-laws. X was running great until I got there and put it in reverse and it died. Restarted and put it in reverse again and it died. Finally got turned around and let it idle. There was a slight miss but no CES light. Put it in drive and went about 50 yards and stopped and it died. his time the CES light came on and stayed. Restarted it and drove home and put it in reverse and it died. Finally got it parked and shut it off. I am going to check the grounds tomorrow. I will try to get the codes pulled tomorrow. One thing I did not mention was that a couple of days ago I ran the battery down by leaving the switch on overnight. I recharged the battery and it is holding charge again. I may have to have it load tested also.

 

I checked the fuel pressure today and with the key on no start it pressurized up to 36psi. After I started it it went to 32psi and held. I am leaning toward a bad COP. I am still only getting the P0720 code. I checked and cleaned all the grounds yesterday.

 

First I want to say I can sympathize with you. Please understand this is only a different idea... My 95 F350 7.3 E4OD 4x4 w/287k mi has semi-similar issues. My issue is transmission related. I think due to a minor variance, i can overcome the stalling episodes because I can mostly predict when it will happen. With the diesel (louder), it has alot more torque/ different control loop, it will load the engine some before it dies. Sometimes the engine has enough grunt to overcome it. When trans is cool-it will load in forward & reverse. When it gets warmed up, it feels like its a manual dumping the clutch (can't grab neutral fast enough)-converter is locking up. If I have enough room, I can throttle up and it will eventually (within 2-3 secs) let go and act normal.
Everything I piece together (along with other issues while cold), is pointing me toward the solenoid pack. The rest of the transmission is very sound after it warms up-shifts perfect/locks torque converter wonderfully.
There are I believe basicly 2 different versions-pwm/ non-pwm (pulse width modulated). 4r100 I think is non? Wide range in prices on ebay-$100 and up. Easy fix, I just havent taken time to do it.
Another issue I notice. When I pay some attention when its cold, the tach will surge some as it tries to lock/unlock converter when in OD. The RTD for fluid temp built into the solenoid pack is sending irratic signals to the computer-this one is theory.
I hope this helps shed some light on things & good luck.

 

Update: I changed the #6 coil and all seems to be fixed. I took it on a 6 mile trip and all seems well. No stalling, missing, or dieing and no codes. I will post again if it is not fixed. Thanks for the help everyone!