1966 F250 Trim Anodizing
#1
1966 F250 Trim Anodizing
I am trying to restore the aluminum trim on my '66 F250 and so far I haven't had much success. I believe that I will need to reanodize the trim.
Does anyone know of a shop in Southern California that can deanodize and reanodize the trim? Preferably I would like someone who has dealt with classic car parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Does anyone know of a shop in Southern California that can deanodize and reanodize the trim? Preferably I would like someone who has dealt with classic car parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#2
#3
I am trying to restore the aluminum trim on my '66 F250 and so far I haven't had much success. I believe that I will need to reanodize the trim.
Does anyone know of a shop in Southern California that can deanodize and reanodize the trim? Preferably I would like someone who has dealt with classic car parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Does anyone know of a shop in Southern California that can deanodize and reanodize the trim? Preferably I would like someone who has dealt with classic car parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The EPA has scared a lot of the shops around So. Cal. There is one in L. A. but I wasn't happy with there work at all. There's an anodizing shop in Pomona but they have small tanks. At least I know they can't do a 75" piece much less a 90" piece.
#4
I bought a 65 Mustang from a guy who also had a 66 F100.
He used fine steel wool to get the finish he wanted, then sprayed the trim with clear lacquer.
Im thinking about trying that myself.
I have never used lacquer, it used to be very popular, but not as durable as enamel I have been told.
He used fine steel wool to get the finish he wanted, then sprayed the trim with clear lacquer.
Im thinking about trying that myself.
I have never used lacquer, it used to be very popular, but not as durable as enamel I have been told.
#5
I bought a 65 Mustang from a guy who also had a 66 F100.
He used fine steel wool to get the finish he wanted, then sprayed the trim with clear lacquer.
Im thinking about trying that myself.
I have never used lacquer, it used to be very popular, but as durable as enamel I have been told.
He used fine steel wool to get the finish he wanted, then sprayed the trim with clear lacquer.
Im thinking about trying that myself.
I have never used lacquer, it used to be very popular, but as durable as enamel I have been told.
I'm just wondering if it would look right or be too shiny.
#6
The trim is finished with a 'Bright Dip' Anodize. I had some done years ago before they started reproducing them. Impala Bob's did mine but that was probably 20 yrs ago for $1 per inch Might do some google searches. Good luck
I am trying to restore the aluminum trim on my '66 F250 and so far I haven't had much success. I believe that I will need to reanodize the trim.
Does anyone know of a shop in Southern California that can deanodize and reanodize the trim? Preferably I would like someone who has dealt with classic car parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Does anyone know of a shop in Southern California that can deanodize and reanodize the trim? Preferably I would like someone who has dealt with classic car parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
I bought a 65 Mustang from a guy who also had a 66 F100.
He used fine steel wool to get the finish he wanted, then sprayed the trim with clear lacquer.
Im thinking about trying that myself.
I have never used lacquer, it used to be very popular, but not as durable as enamel I have been told.
He used fine steel wool to get the finish he wanted, then sprayed the trim with clear lacquer.
Im thinking about trying that myself.
I have never used lacquer, it used to be very popular, but not as durable as enamel I have been told.
It can be done, but man it's going to be time consuming and hell on the hands.
Once you get the anodize coating off, you'll need to fix the dents and dings. Trust me they will show up even more.
Once you make it to that point, then the polishing begins. You can always "Seal" the aluminum with an aluminum sealer. Look at "Master Formula" for a good quality bare aluminum sealer.
Today's anodize is not as good as yesterday's anodize. The coating doesn't last long and your back to stripping and polishing.
You can thank the EPA for that.
#10
#11
Where are you located? What City? Stripping and fixing not a problem. Re-anodizing is a problem for the bed side trim. If they don't have a tank long enough, they will have to dip each end. This causes a line in the center, not bad but still noticeable.
The EPA has scared a lot of the shops around So. Cal. There is one in L. A. but I wasn't happy with there work at all. There's an anodizing shop in Pomona but they have small tanks. At least I know they can't do a 75" piece much less a 90" piece.
The EPA has scared a lot of the shops around So. Cal. There is one in L. A. but I wasn't happy with there work at all. There's an anodizing shop in Pomona but they have small tanks. At least I know they can't do a 75" piece much less a 90" piece.
#12
#15
...Does anyone know...can the aluminum trim be "flash" chromed like they did on some stainless trim on classic cars??
...ps Tucson, I just started my disassembly this weekend on my '66 F-250. Given enough time, I want it to look just like yours! What are the proper names of the colors on your truck?? I'm going to make some slight mod's but keep the original look. Only shame of painting/restoring, it's so original, still has the inspection/crayon marks on the firewall and engine compartment panels!!
...ps Tucson, I just started my disassembly this weekend on my '66 F-250. Given enough time, I want it to look just like yours! What are the proper names of the colors on your truck?? I'm going to make some slight mod's but keep the original look. Only shame of painting/restoring, it's so original, still has the inspection/crayon marks on the firewall and engine compartment panels!!