What is the minimum elect
#1
What is the minimum elect
F-1 Not sure on the year 48 or 49 6 flathead the po chopped the elect all up (and I mean chopped like a vandal)
going to try and start the engine with as little elect as I need so what do I need I got a 12v bat the po changed out the gen and put in an altinator one wire
Plugs are black so it was running rich
Dizzy was loose so I set it to tdc
Points look ok cap is new and condenser looks new also
Po said that the engine ran about 1 1/2 years ago???yea right
Should I hook it up positive ground ?
And should I get a 6volt bat?
I can turn the engine with a wrinch
going to try and start the engine with as little elect as I need so what do I need I got a 12v bat the po changed out the gen and put in an altinator one wire
Plugs are black so it was running rich
Dizzy was loose so I set it to tdc
Points look ok cap is new and condenser looks new also
Po said that the engine ran about 1 1/2 years ago???yea right
Should I hook it up positive ground ?
And should I get a 6volt bat?
I can turn the engine with a wrinch
#2
First thing I would do, is try to hand turn the engine with a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft nut. (Oops, I just read that) If it moves ok, next step would be to see where the wire from the alternator goes. That should tell you if the old regulator on the firewall is still in use. It shouldn't be if the alternator is hooked up properly. I would disconnect the gauge wires just to be safe, in case the 12v battery is too much. I would also pull the coil wire to the distributor, and put a spark tester on it. The starter won't care, 6 or 12 volt, at least for a couple diagnostic checks. The key here is to not get impatient... you don't want to bend a stuck valve.
#3
First thing I would do, is try to hand turn the engine with a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft nut. (Oops, I just read that) If it moves ok, next step would be to see where the wire from the alternator goes. That should tell you if the old regulator on the firewall is still in use. It shouldn't be if the alternator is hooked up properly. I would disconnect the gauge wires just to be safe, in case the 12v battery is too much. The starter won't care, 6 or 12 volt, at least for a couple diagnostic checks.
Wires are cut everywhere and more than once in the engine cavity
Under the dash looks ok but the main cable thru the fire wall is cut in two places at least
The starter relay is there but wires are cut on the in put side
And there is only three post on the relay two large one small I think came from starter button
I think I will use a remote starter or just jump it
#4
OK,. I edited my previous post.
Disconnect the coil wire from the dist. , and add a spark tester. I jumpered my F6 by just running cables from my Ranger to the block for ground, and the solenoid cable that went to the starter. I knew mine was still pos ground, so I put the red cable from my Ranger's + post to the F6 engine block.
If everything checks out, you can reconnect the coil wire, and give it a shot.
Also, it sounds like the PO cut the wires to the cab, so it could be removed.
Disconnect the coil wire from the dist. , and add a spark tester. I jumpered my F6 by just running cables from my Ranger to the block for ground, and the solenoid cable that went to the starter. I knew mine was still pos ground, so I put the red cable from my Ranger's + post to the F6 engine block.
If everything checks out, you can reconnect the coil wire, and give it a shot.
Also, it sounds like the PO cut the wires to the cab, so it could be removed.
#5
#6
12v neg ground. If just test firing, all you need is the ignition system and starting wires to be installed. Pretty basic stuff. You can find diagrams all over the internet if you prefer a picture.
#7
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