Before I just go an buy something random from the web, does anybody know of a solid source for a new/rebuilt steering box? Mine is getting pretty hard to drive.

If anybody has any tips or trick, I am all ears. The steering wheel moves 4-5 inches either way without engaging anything. I have tightened the 5/8 bolt on the top as much as it will turn.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

Chucks Trucks LLC - give him a call and he can likely hook you up with a serviceable used one.

If rebuilding yourself, you'll need something akin to the Ford 7C-3548-KIT from DC: https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/tru...ox-rebuild-kit

 

The adjustment screw isn't for taking up wear, it's to align the follower and screw. By maxing it out you're making the slack much worse by taking the roller away from the gear, far outside where it should be. I think if you set it properly the box will be fine.

 

Unless it is worn .

 

a second vote for Chucks Trucks I bought a rebuilt one there a few years ago.

 

Oh yeah, also check for wear or weakening springs in the drag link, factory spec is to bottom out the plug screws and then back it off to the closest position to insert the cotter pin. You do actually have to take up wear in that if it hasn't been lubricated so good. Could also be junk tie rod ends as well.

 

Any tips on moving that adjustment screw? My guess is that it hasn't been touch since somebody at the factory put it in, or at least for a long time. Truck sat from 1983 until a few years ago.

 

All else fails, fire.

You can get a dedicated drag link socket that's just a huge driven screwdriver, but they're hard to get now. I just used a big crowbar as a breaker bar to move the cap.

 

Before you replace, adjust following the correct procedure. Here’s the page from the maintenance manual on setting the preload.



And this video shows how to adjust the free play.


Once you adjust free play, check for binding at the extremes of the steering. If the gears are worn, you might have proper adjustment in the center, but binding at full turn right and/or left. Then it’s time for replacement.

On my 48 F1 I didn’t need to adjust preload, only the free play. Note that these are not like modern cars, there will be some free play, just watch driving scenes in old movies and you’ll see folks turning the wheel constantly, that’s how they were.

Good luck.