I got shiny new AE last week and it showed odd EBP readings. Same reading key on engine off (KOEO) and key on engine running (KOER) and way high to boot. Truck is new to me, runs good, seems to shift odd and had slight diesel odor in cab too.
Copper has high melting point but is also great heat conductor, I hear stick with steel.

 

I've always had a 476 DTC. Always. Dating back a dozen years ago. No matter what Scan Tool... from a SnapOn M2500 to a Ford NGS.

I've replaced the sensor (with a new factory sensor obtained from an authorized Ford dealer.)

I've cleaned the tube, using a modified speedometer cable cut to length, because the end of a speedometer cable has a square head that chucks into a drill more securely than weedeater line.

I can't remove the tube, at least not without removing the entire front drive assembly, lower alternator, belt tensioner, AC compressor bracket, etc. Not worth the effort when it isn't rusted, and can be cleaned as is where is. This is the only downside to having dual alternators... direct service access to the EBP tube was not considered.

So I've lived with DTC 0476 for years. Even analyzed it with the Ford factory service trainer who traveled the western US conducting diesel certification training at Ford dealerships... training them on how to service the 7.3L PSD. He even gave up and said it wouldn't harm anything... live with it.

I don't like having any codes, but I haven't noticed any deleterious effects from the 476 code (NOT 475) that never seems to go away.

 

Just want to give you some props for working the word deleterious into a post........

 

 

In the picture above, you can just make out some screws and nuts which attach a small spacer plate to connect the two pieces of the mounting bracket together. This allows the sensor to move forward enough so that only two 90 degree bends are needed. This makes it so much easier to clean out the tube. It probably took 2 hours to do this modification, which would have been that long to clean the old stock tube with 7 bends. I did remove the bracket from the front of the HPOP to modify it and then used RTV to reseal the bracket to the HPOP (covers the main gear nut in the HPOP). The brake line comes with flared ends already, but the fittings are wrong. So I cut the tube, replaced the fittings with the stock Ford fittings and then used a 5/16" compression coupling to reattach the tube. Even if several tries are needed to get the measurements right, it is a small job compared to many on these trucks. Larry

 

OK, I got the tube off altogether and it is not whole. Might even have a piece missing in the middle for all I can tell as the pieces to not fit together that great. I like Larry's modification but right now I may just take the easy way out, I have bigger fish to fry.

My next question is for those who have successfully cleaned the sensor. I dug it out with a small slotted screwdriver and cant see anything that would look like a diaphragm in there and I have sprayed it well with carb cleaner. It's not hard to throw in and run the AE on it to see if it works but are there any other tips to cleaning it out?

Thanks,
Mark

 

I have a 350 that has 2 alternators, why I am not sure, but when I look in the side of the wheel well I can see the tube and nut just the same as my 250. Is it that once the nut is off you can't fish the tube out, or you cannot get to the nut to take it off? I do see the back of the second alternator, but it does not look like it is in the way of taking the nut loose. I went through the wheel well to get to the one on my 250.

 

The double alternators are an unknown for me as to how that affects removal. But yes the way I took off the tube was to access the nut through the wheel well using a good flashlight and wrench. Then I slid the tube out the front. I only have a single alternator. The fitting in the exhaust manifold does also need to be cleaned or blown out.
The sensor must have a diaphragm, so be careful when digging out the crud. I did not have enough patience to clean it. In the trash it went after 10 minutes of scraping! There is something special about throwing away a bad part, but there is also a special feeling about rebuilding things too. Larry

 

Denny,
I just replaced my tube Tuesday and tested truck yesterday. I was suffering from loss of power. Truck would have to downshift pulling a slight hill with no trailer or load (empty). Turbo did not seem to be functioning and engine rattled like a sack of empty cans. After changing tube (one note, I put brake cleaner in tube and applied air pressure and found three cracks in tube), cleaning EBP sensor, cleaning fitting on exhaust manifold, cleaning bracket on front of engine (where sensor connects to tube) I have restored truck to an acceptable level of power, engine is quieter, does not downshift on hills when empty.
What I have been able to glean from all the information you will get on this site was the EBPS works with other sensors to regulate the amount of fuel to the engine. Basically my truck was starving for fuel and therefore lack of power.
This site has been a tremendous help for me with information you are able to obtain from posters. I have found that you have to read everything and try to determine who are credible posters which there are many. Then you have the guys like me who are feeling our way trying to learn what makes our trucks tick.
I have been able to resolve several issues on my truck which the dealer was not able to do. So this site gets two thumbs up from me and a big thanks to the people who take the time to share their knowledge of the 7.3
The job is very easy to do so don't be afraid to tackle this job.
My 1999 F250 has 187,000 miles and going strong again after replacing this tube.
Oldboots1950

 

Boots, Good writeup.

I am going to pull my assembly this weekend. After what you mentioned about cracks......I will pressure test it and ensure it is not compromised.

I did pull my electrical fitting off the pedestal and it went right away. I am going to do as you said to the letter and reinstall everything as stock.

Some folks say they run with it unplugged but being in a northern Michigan climate dictates it as a very needed warm up in sub zero's.

I'll post the effect.

Thanx mister!!!

Denny

 

you mentioned your truck sounded like a snake...are implying a hissing sound? If so you may have a hole in the tube.
I bought mine from O'Reilly's for $30.78 with military discount.

 

Cleaned soot out of sensor with no change in readings. It was packed in there and I wonder how long it took it to fill like that and how long it's been since it worked. I found that a deck screw did the best at digging through the soot then reamed it out with various other tools. The seafood pick seemed to be best at reaming it once it was opened. No rubber diaphragm in there. Advanced Auto carries the part, on-line purchase in-store pick up with 35% off sale price got me out the door for $58.00. BWG brand made in USA (well, NYC if that counts.). I live in dense area with about ten stores around, two of them had part in stock. RiffRaff has best price on tube and I needed some other stuff there so that made shipping a little easier to handle. I still like that home made tube have some thoughts on a device to clean the tube out while in place. Maybe Larry could make tubes and sell them?

 

Mark, I appreciate the thought on making the tubes, but it really isn't that hard to experiment with a tubing bender. If you just make a reference mark near the end of the bend, put the bender on that mark and then you bend it 90 degrees. If you then measure the vertical leg to see how long it is, you can then take another piece of tubing and adjust the reference mark to either make the vertical leg longer or shorter.At the most, a couple of extra pieces of aluminized steel tubing at a cost of $2.50 each. And now you have a new skill for future tubing installations. I did not count the cost of the tubing bender! OK, I do admit that electricians do already know how to bend tubing accurately,so I do have that advantage. But still, it really is not as hard as a lot of other jobs on our trucks, like the darn brakes and front end work! Larry

 

I have made brake lines and tranny lines before, I just usually have a whole line to work with, this one is in pieces. I have an anvil with that round horn on it I use to stop the tube from kinking and it works good. I am considering buying a length of tube and bending one up for stock. Next question is (if I missed it) what about the fittings? My ferels are locked on there pretty tight.

 

did you get the job done?