Hey guys, so I've been cruising the threads here hoping to get some good info. Of course its there but my desire for instant gratification has overruled. I've got a 2000 7.3 that is my baby. I've been all through it over the years and all the guys on this site have really helped me make it reliable, and fun to drive. Now that our farm is getting bigger we are considering getting rid of my wifes dodge durango (total piece of junk) and getting a dually 94-97 7.3. So my question for you guys is. When I'm out looking for one to buy what are a few things to check. I'm familiar with the obvious (suspension, ball joints, rust, tires shocks0 but related to the motor and trans I don't know how different they are from the 2000 7.3. For example should I expect the same visible blowby out of the oil fill cap or is this a lower compression motor anyways? We are also looking for one with a 5spd. Anything I should keep my eye out for? Thanks for any input guys!
Steve

 

The blocks and I believe all the internals are the same. The main difference is the single shot injectors , turbo and fuel delivery system. Aside from that there's a sticky that links to a superduty sticky for info. It's all pretty close to the same

 

Compression should be the same. Poor-man's blow-by test, since we don't have the "riser" piper for the oil filler - remove the cap and set it upside down on the hole while the engine's running. If it just sits there or rattles/slides off, you're GTG. If the pressure blows it upward, that's significant blow-by.

5-speed - find out if the clutch and flywheel have been replaced. If it's on the original, flywheel is a dual-mass configuration, meant to smooth out the ride and reduce gear noise, but it's a time bomb design. Replace with single-mass at first opportunity.

RUST - check the frame, bedside wheel arches, spring/shock hangers/brackets/shackles, and rad core support.

 

Fantastic guys! Love how fast the good info comes in. Ill dig for that sticky this evening.
Thanks again

 

When buying a used PSD

Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel

Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.

Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.

Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.

Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)

Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

 

FYI, duallys in these years are only 2WD when in pickup form (C&C could be bought 4wd). Now, someone may have converted a 2WD to 4WD. If so, might want to really look at the front end.

Good luck and happy hunting. Oh, and a big difference is no inter-cooler on the 94 to 97 PSD. You'll have to add one if you plan on doing much for HP mods.

 

Your right ford never made a 4WD dually but there was some single wheel truck converted into dually by conversion company's like centurion conversion.

Here is my I am not sure who converted my. It was a single wheel F350 4WD from factory.





This is a centurion conversion.

 

could add maybe a few more things and make a small sticky out of this..?

my .02 E4od's generally don't last long when compared to the motor itself, so if you do end up getting one instead of a 5speed you should get it beefed up as soon as you can..