No brakes
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Elder User
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No brakes
I go to move my truck this morning to work on it and no brakes. Check the fluid and inside rubber cap is distorted and enlarged. Guessing the rubber in the master cylinder is the same and not pushing fluid. Did a fluid check a week ago and everything was fine. Just went thur the system a few months replaced hoses, shoes etc. as needed, everything but the hard lines. Flushed system till I got clean fluid at each wheel and bleed. Used advance auto's house brand brake fluid. What could cause the rubber to distort like that and how could it get in there.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
I go to move my truck this morning to work on it and no brakes. Check the fluid and inside rubber cap is distorted and enlarged. Guessing the rubber in the master cylinder is the same and not pushing fluid. Did a fluid check a week ago and everything was fine. Just went thur the system a few months replaced hoses, shoes etc. as needed, everything but the hard lines. Flushed system till I got clean fluid at each wheel and bleed. Used advance auto's house brand brake fluid. What could cause the rubber to distort like that and how could it get in there.
What DOT fluid did ya use? DOT 3 is spec'ed.
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Elder User
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Once I took the metal cover off the rubber piece inside was curved and would not sit flat. Also expanded to a bigger size and does fit not inside the metal cover.
Wearever Gold Brake Fluid 32oz WLBFD332Z/W2001: Search no more for the best Brake Fluid at Advance Auto Parts
This is the fluid I used, didn't realize till now it was synthetic. The bottle I used to flush and fill before did not state synthetic except in small print on the bottom and in Spanish. (They now have a new label) I did put a little non synthetic dot3 in last week from autozone, think that could be the problem.
Besides a new MC and and rebuilding the wheel cylinders is there anything else I need to look at?
Wearever Gold Brake Fluid 32oz WLBFD332Z/W2001: Search no more for the best Brake Fluid at Advance Auto Parts
This is the fluid I used, didn't realize till now it was synthetic. The bottle I used to flush and fill before did not state synthetic except in small print on the bottom and in Spanish. (They now have a new label) I did put a little non synthetic dot3 in last week from autozone, think that could be the problem.
Besides a new MC and and rebuilding the wheel cylinders is there anything else I need to look at?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Tennessee
If two fluids were used , and they do not blend , cause the rubber components to degrade ..... You need a full line flush and replace all rubber parts . Master , wheel , caliper , hoses ... I would look close before you pull the trigger . Best of luck !
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Elder User
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Ya planned on a flush and already bought a new M/C and wheel rebuilt kits.
Didn't mean to buy synthetic as I know most gas stations don't carry it if I need a top off.
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Elder User
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Do you know what he did to correct the problem? Was a one time flush enough to get the old fluid out. Thanks!
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Senior User
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From: Redding, CA
you have to replace all of the rubber components as stated earlier master, hoses, wheel cylinders since you are still 4 wheel drum, and the proportioning valve as it has rubber O-rings in it as well and then flush all hard lines with denatured alcohol
the denatured alcohol gets any oil residue out of the hard lines then refill and bleed with standard dot 3
the denatured alcohol gets any oil residue out of the hard lines then refill and bleed with standard dot 3
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Elder User
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you have to replace all of the rubber components as stated earlier master, hoses, wheel cylinders since you are still 4 wheel drum, and the proportioning valve as it has rubber O-rings in it as well and then flush all hard lines with denatured alcohol
the denatured alcohol gets any oil residue out of the hard lines then refill and bleed with standard dot 3
the denatured alcohol gets any oil residue out of the hard lines then refill and bleed with standard dot 3
There is a 73 at the junk yard, could I use the hard lines for my truck. I know a 73 has dics up front but if they will work I might just go pull them.
How long would it take to remove and bend some new lines, I need to get the truck back up and running.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Tennessee
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 49
From: Tennessee
Thread Starter
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Elder User
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Want to get it right the first time, may not get a 2nd chance if I don't. Bothers me Saturday night I had brakes and Sunday morning nothing. Lucky they didn't go out on the road, thanks for the help. Hope these questions aren't annoying just trying to decide on a safe but fast method of getting this done.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Redding, CA
The denatured alcohol is a must flushing with brake fluid alone will not get the oil completely out and it is a lot of work to do over if you end up with a little bit of oil still in the system I know it is a extra step but it is definitely worth it we use a refillable sprayer to flush the lines
As for the hard lines from the wreaking yard I wouldn't mess with it who knows what some one else has put in there braking system before it ended up out there
As for the hard lines from the wreaking yard I wouldn't mess with it who knows what some one else has put in there braking system before it ended up out there
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,877
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From: Tennessee
I only used fresh brake fluid and compressed air from my air compressor , if memory serves me . I see the benefit of using a flush agent . I would be sure to remove all before installing fresh fluid . All attempts should be made to insure proper fluid is installed in your brake system . Best of luck !