What would you replace if you had a little RV that you travelled around in? Have 110,000 miles all I’ve ever done is maintence when I was supposed to, but did have to replace fuel pump at 77,000 miles. Pain in rear to change oil every 3,000 miles, but that is what manual says on "severe" schedule. So I do keep up on maintenance and on wear items (brakes, belt etc) Other known problems I just shorten up schedule; for example; spark plugs are re-torqued every 15,000 miles, and my tie rods love grease and get a squirt every other oil change, maybe to much weight on them?


Reason why I’m concerned is this is in a 2003 F-350 with a chassis mounted camper attached. Leaves driveway at 10,390 pounds, not a ball of fire. We travel around mostly western states, and don't like experimenting to see which dealers are good when we do break down.

Trying to be pro-active versus getting hosed in middle of nowhere. Have talked with some (mostly V10 folks) that have 250,000 miles or more. So in our opinion 100,000 is about 1/2 thru its useful life span.

I would like to replace the whole thing as it is getting old. But it has been a real good unit. And looking at new units, Dealers want over $100,000 and what we have now is paid off and running good and troubles has been worked out of house part years ago.

What would you replace to help prevent breakdowns on the road, if your travels take you long ways from home. Don't like surprises of the "break down" kind.

Anyways, I’m thinking replacing thermostat and water pump, Idler and tension pullies. Good idea or bad? Any other items you would replace?

P.S. Just noticed I put this in wrong place (F150) and I don't know how to move it, but 150"s have 5.4 also, so no big deal in my book?

Thanks

 

I would add to your list...wheel bearings (im sure i will be flamed but you probably dont have to replace the races just the bearings. Mine was on the way out at about 120k and they were made of plastic housing)............maybe fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. Might want to buy a code reader to take with you.And also carry an extra coil.Wont leave you stranded but could come n handy. Tools of course.

 

I would agree with the wheel bearings based on its constant load (sorry with races) & add that if you have not done so yet that new spark plugs would be a good idea at the 100,000 mark. Spark plug ejections are dramatically reduced when torqued to 28ft/lbs. Changing the differential gear oil couldn't hurt either, but note weather you have a limited slip differential or not. If you do you'll need the friction modifier as well.

Sounds like this unit has been well cared for. I imagine that the fuel filter has been done under the "normal maintenance"...if not, add that to the list of things to do or at least carry a new with you.

Next time you are out with it, stop by a camp ground, look up other "travelers" with simular units and ask how many miles are on their units?? And maybe in that conversation you can see how many are trading in under what kind of conditions.... higher miles vs lower miles. This way you can get a better sense of if you have kept it too long or keep driving it for a while without loosing too much value.... yes I understand the new ones are pricy.

most folks do...but have a cell phone...so IF you do happen to break down. You can call for help.

 

Enriched is right about the races. I just had a weak moment as i generally dont do them when replacing them before you have a problem. Giving the choice of a truck with new races or old i would take the new. I just have had trouble takingthem out in the past and ive never had any trouble just replacing bearings.....but yeah i agree bearings AND races would be better. If you dont replace the bearing and it goes bad (and it will eventually) it will be scarred up on the inside and you will have a nitemare to deal with.

A new radiator for my ranger was a 100 or so bucks. Not sure on yours but since you are going thru the desert, pulling a load up hills and such you may want to take it off and see if it getting plugged up. When i had my ranger it went from good to bad quickly and made more sense price wise to replace as oppose to taking it apart. You may be fine but i would take it to a local reasonable radiator shop and see. Around here they checked it for free.
Also keep a phone charger with you if you dont already.

 

The safest way I've found to remove races is to use a brass drift punch 1/4" to 3/8" diameter and a 3 lb. hammer. That way as your removing the race the brass won't score the hub area if your not accurate or slip. The hammer has enough weight you don't have to hit very hard and chance slipping. Smear a little grease on the new race and hub area to keep the race from galling the hub as you install the new one. You can also use the brass drift to help seat the new race.

Wear safety glasses when using brass as it may chip and will be difficult to remove from your eyes.