Time for brakes....
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 394
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From: Nederland, TX
Time for brakes....
I'm wanting to upgrade the brakes on the front end. Its time to replace them so I want it to be as good as it can be. Truck is lifted with 37x13.50x17s What would yall recommend?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 394
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From: Nederland, TX
So something like this? Or stick with OEM rotors?
http://www.hawkperformance.com/perfo...les-kits/sd-qs
http://www.hawkperformance.com/perfo...les-kits/sd-qs
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 475
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From: Pugetopolis
I am in the process of redoing my front brakes again. I pull a toy hauler that rides around 12k loaded and I like to get the best brakes. I read about 50 forum threads and settled on EBC.
I've used stock rotors and while they worked great for the first year, they seemed to only last a year or two before they get that "warped" feeling. I currently have Powerslot Cryos with the Hawk LTS pads and they have lasted four years, but I won't tow with them again. They feel shot. Fresh they were very nice, but not anymore. I would definitely buy the Hawk pads again, but not sure about the Powerslots.
Last week, I ordered up a set of the EBC discs with yellow pads from Clay. I'll give them a try this time. And this time, I am going to be meticulous about mounting them up. Many things can contribute to the "warp" feeling that brakes exhibit and I am tired of having to redo my brakes every two to four years.
My .02. And I hope it's worth that.
DS
I've used stock rotors and while they worked great for the first year, they seemed to only last a year or two before they get that "warped" feeling. I currently have Powerslot Cryos with the Hawk LTS pads and they have lasted four years, but I won't tow with them again. They feel shot. Fresh they were very nice, but not anymore. I would definitely buy the Hawk pads again, but not sure about the Powerslots.
Last week, I ordered up a set of the EBC discs with yellow pads from Clay. I'll give them a try this time. And this time, I am going to be meticulous about mounting them up. Many things can contribute to the "warp" feeling that brakes exhibit and I am tired of having to redo my brakes every two to four years.
My .02. And I hope it's worth that.
DS
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
I am in the process of redoing my front brakes again. I pull a toy hauler that rides around 12k loaded and I like to get the best brakes. I read about 50 forum threads and settled on EBC.
I've used stock rotors and while they worked great for the first year, they seemed to only last a year or two before they get that "warped" feeling. I currently have Powerslot Cryos with the Hawk LTS pads and they have lasted four years, but I won't tow with them again. They feel shot. Fresh they were very nice, but not anymore. I would definitely buy the Hawk pads again, but not sure about the Powerslots.
Last week, I ordered up a set of the EBC discs with yellow pads from Clay. I'll give them a try this time. And this time, I am going to be meticulous about mounting them up. Many things can contribute to the "warp" feeling that brakes exhibit and I am tired of having to redo my brakes every two to four years.
My .02. And I hope it's worth that.
DS
I've used stock rotors and while they worked great for the first year, they seemed to only last a year or two before they get that "warped" feeling. I currently have Powerslot Cryos with the Hawk LTS pads and they have lasted four years, but I won't tow with them again. They feel shot. Fresh they were very nice, but not anymore. I would definitely buy the Hawk pads again, but not sure about the Powerslots.
Last week, I ordered up a set of the EBC discs with yellow pads from Clay. I'll give them a try this time. And this time, I am going to be meticulous about mounting them up. Many things can contribute to the "warp" feeling that brakes exhibit and I am tired of having to redo my brakes every two to four years.
My .02. And I hope it's worth that.
DS
I've done quite a few this way and while some may assert it to be snake oil, I swear by it.
Here is the procedure in a nutshell for anyone who cares.
How to Bed-in Brake Pads - The Best Technique for Bedding in Brake Pads
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...ake-pad-bed-in
Similar technique for racing:
Instructions for bedding in your brakes
Another one (from EBC).
How to bed in your new brakes for street/urban driving - EBC Brakes
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 475
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From: Pugetopolis
Thanks for those links, Nate. I have done break-in procedures, but nothing as extensive as in your last link of over 1000 miles. I will have to alter my procedure. The first year they are always fine. The vibration always takes a while to manifest itself for me. A year on the stock rotors and three on the Powerslots.
I understand many things can contribute to the issue, so I was going to be cleaning the mount points and making sure I torque the lugs down myself (someone helped me last time), just to make sure every step is measured. This will include a more meticulous break-in procedure along the lines of those you've linked. I appreciate that.
I had some heat fade last year on some long grades so I am also planning on fabbing up some brake cooling ducts to see if that helps.
DS
I understand many things can contribute to the issue, so I was going to be cleaning the mount points and making sure I torque the lugs down myself (someone helped me last time), just to make sure every step is measured. This will include a more meticulous break-in procedure along the lines of those you've linked. I appreciate that.
I had some heat fade last year on some long grades so I am also planning on fabbing up some brake cooling ducts to see if that helps.
DS
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
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From: Orrville, Ohio
The biggest possible issue I see with the brakes on a truck used for towing is the long braking and then a dead stop. The rotors get hot and then when you stop completely and maintain pressure on the brake pedal, you're just melting that pad right onto that hot rotor. I'm sure it's unavoidable in some instances. I always try to be conscious of letting pressure off the pedal after a hard stop or repeated stops when I'm sure the brakes are getting some heat into them. I'll even pull up short of the vehicle in front of me or the stop bar at a light and then let the vehicle roll slightly while I'm waiting. That's tough to do with a manual transmission truck and a load behind you though... 
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
That would work... The rear drums would be a lot less prone to overheating and having this kind of issue.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,419
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From: AZ
I learn something new every day, never heard of 'bedding'. I now have 3-4K on my new hawk brake pads so I'm assuming its to late to bed them?
A couple points made, I feel that I brake very hard at times so will, when possible, take my foot off the pedal at stops. Maybe put it into park for a few moments. But, to apply the emergency brake seems to be in contradiction because I've always heard drum brakes heat up more the disk brakes?? Or maybe I'm thinking that they fad more then disks when braking heavy. Interesting!
A couple points made, I feel that I brake very hard at times so will, when possible, take my foot off the pedal at stops. Maybe put it into park for a few moments. But, to apply the emergency brake seems to be in contradiction because I've always heard drum brakes heat up more the disk brakes?? Or maybe I'm thinking that they fad more then disks when braking heavy. Interesting!
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
I think you've probably bedded those brakes naturally, Glenn. As for using the e-brake and maintaining pressure on the rear brakes, I'm not sure. I guess I can see where it would take a drum longer to cool off, and I know for a fact that they will fade worse than a disk brake, but since about 70% of the braking is accomplished with the front axle, I don't know if the rears would get as hot or not. It sounds like someone needs to do some hot runs with an IR thermometer and take some readings.