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I'm planning to by an Air/Fuel Ratio "system", and need some guidance from y'all. Here's some info:
Intended Use: The main use is as a tool to tune engines, such as the 400 I'm building for Dad's truck, which is initially to be carbed but may go EFI later, and the 440 I intend to build for the Super Bee. (And, there might be other vehicles that wander in from time to time.) In other words, as a set-up tool rather than a full-time readout.
Options:
Data Logger: Something like Innovate's LM-2 would do the job, but is overkill since it has several other inputs, including analog and OBD-II. However, I could use it as an OBD-II scanner, although I already have one. And, I could add a MAP sensor and log AFR, RPM, and manifold vacuum.
Dedicated Gauge: Or, I could go with a dedicated gauge, like
with both wideband AFR and vacuum built in. However, it wouldn't be easy to move to another vehicle - but it costs less than the LM-2. And, the AEM unit also logs up to 3 hours worth of data.
Issues:
Wiring: Even with a data logger you have to run wiring somehow to get from the O2 sensor to the unit. I suppose a hole could be put in the firewall and the wiring taken out when done and a plug put in.
Heated O2 Sensor: According to Innovate all O2 sensors have to be connected to a head unit so they get hot. Otherwise they'll coat up and be worthless. So, with a data logger when you take the logger out you have to also take the sensor(s) out.
I can't answer that question. But from what I've read these are heated sensors and the head unit provides the current. So w/o the head unit there is no current and no heat. Maybe I could run another wire or just connect to the wire in the cab when the head unit is pulled, but I don't know if they give full battery voltage to them or modulate the voltage/current to keep a specific temp.
Is this an independent unit that isn't mounted in the vehicle?
How do they connect to the vehicle?
Not sure which "this" you mean. However, both the data logger type and the dedicated gauge hook up the same way. You weld a bung to the exhaust and run a cable from it to the unit. If the testing was to be very temporary you might be able to come up the firewall, out between the hood and the fender or cowl, and inside via the door gasket.
For power the dedicated would obviously be hard wired, but the LM-2 plugs into the cigarette lighter.
And for vacuum, the AEM unit has an on-board sensor so you run a vacuum hose to it. But the LM-2 would require an external MAP sensor, like the stock Ford unit, and then a wire run to the logger, and that is a more permanent thing.
So, as I think about it, either way I go I believe dedicated wiring should be run. That would let me put the O2 sensor in and connect the logger and check things out.
Ok, I can only address what my experience is. I have an Innovate LM1 (older system) it can log additional inputs with add on modules. It has a digital LCD display, green background with black text. I use it simply for the exhaust O2 stream values and input it to my tuning program, BE2012.
Any of these systems require some way of getting the signal inside the vehicle. In my case I am using the stock EFI location in an H pipe that would be just in front of the catalytic converter. This is back next to the extension housing on the E4OD. The Ford wiring for the > 8500 GVW applications runs in the transmission wiring harness, I ran the Innovate cable up alongside the transmission harness and through an existing hole (old cruise control wiring and dump hose) to the inside.
As far as what you probably need, Gary, the AEM might be perfect as it gives you AFR and manifold vacuum. With a carburetor that will tell you where you are as far as cruise, power etc.
Bill - Thanks. I think you are right that the AEM unit is a perfect fit, at least from the standpoint of what I want to monitor. It not only monitors AFR and vacuum, but it has a tach input as well. Plus it records up to three hours of data, and their software then plots the data any way you want it. So I'll be able to correlate manifold vacuum and RPM vs AFR, which should allow me to tune the AFR very closely.
The problem is where to mount it. My plans were to mount water temp and oil pressure gauges in the pocket to the right of the steering wheel, and the two of them would be a tight but neat fit. However, there's no way to get three gauges in there. And, the space to the left of the column doesn't have enough space behind it to allow the meter to recess properly. Hmmmm.
One option is to rethink the oil pressure and water temp gauges. I'd thought about building an Arduino to monitor those parameters and displaying them in the windows where the clock currently is. I really won't need the clock as there will be one on the radio. But, that is that much more work and complexity. So, if anyone has suggestions I'm all eyes!
A pillar pods come to mind, if you don't mind looking like a ricer.
Overhead above the rear view mirror between the visors.
Since the truck is a 5 speed and the center seat will not be there, under the center of the dash, angled slightly up and left so they are readable at a glance (3 O'clock normal comes to mind).
I put my oil pressure and water temp gauges under the cigarette lighter area. Although they are part of my center console, they wouldn't have to be. There is room there between the bottom of the dash and the floor to make a small panel that would easily fit three gauges.
I don't want to look like a ricer, and that's what the pods remind me of. But thanks anyway, guys.
I'll think about between the visors. Might be a pain getting the wires up there, but should be doable. However, I'd want something that blends in to house them in. Hmmm. I'll look at Rusty tomorrow to see what that might look like.
As for under the dash, I had my heart set on integrating the gauges into the dash. Everyone has theirs under the dash but I wanted to clean that up a bit. More "custom" than "add-on". However, I may just go back with a 3-gauge bracket and forget the dash integration.
Luke - Missed your post. Yes, I sure would like to see the pictures. Please!
Yep. They are huge inside but have nowhere to put things. Today's vehicles have cubbys everywhere and these have very few. Ahhh, but they do have drink holders!
You can run the wires up the left A pillar under the trim, or if you feel froggy, fish it through the hollow pillar while you are reassembling things. The roof lights on the 86 were run that way. If you do that then you can tuck them between the roof and windshield reinforcement and either run them over, or put a grommeted hole in the reinforcement. The headliner is soft enough it will allow the wires to come up over the reveal molding.