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2003 Excursion 7.3 question

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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 10:40 AM
  #16  
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From: Florence
Georgetown Kentucky.. Just north of Lexington and an hour east of louisville
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 11:19 AM
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I frequent harbor freight :-) their stuff isn't excessively good quality but decent for low use applications... I have a 20% off or 5 at the house :-) I wanna get some parts ordered here soon so if anyone has any other suggestions of things to address or replace while I have the engine out let me know... The timing cover and seal set should show up today... I have a new balancer and high volume loop from melling... Should I pick up a new timing set? Is there a seal there under the timing gear?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 11:35 AM
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I bought that particular engine stand, and I was actually surprised at how well built it is for the money. It's stable and it rolls pretty well, even with the engine on it. The only complaint I have is the pipe they include to rotate the engine isn't nearly strong enough.

I've never heard of a timing set failing on one of these engines. I'm sure it's happened but I can't imagine it being common at all.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 12:53 PM
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Anyone around my area that may be able to come down and help in a few weekends
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 01:06 PM
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Rather than the Ford sealant, you might want to try this offering for the oil pan gasket...Oil Pan Gasket - Riffraff Diesel Performance at least you don't have to wait so long and have the surface completely oil free.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 01:48 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
I bought that particular engine stand, and I was actually surprised at how well built it is for the money. It's stable and it rolls pretty well, even with the engine on it. The only complaint I have is the pipe they include to rotate the engine isn't nearly strong enough.

I've never heard of a timing set failing on one of these engines. I'm sure it's happened but I can't imagine it being common at all.
Make sure ur house is connected some way to the head when turning it upside down. That engine is heavy or have a cheater pipe on the stand handle ask me how I know.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by nookiemonster55
Make sure ur house is connected some way to the head when turning it upside down. That engine is heavy or have a cheater pipe on the stand handle ask me how I know.
What do you mean house to the head? I'm not super experienced with engine stands or putting an engine onto a stand. Actually no experience.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 02:05 PM
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With the HF stand, I had to force it to turn upside down using a wrecking bar between the fingers on the engine stand plate. If the main tube had bearings in it (or maybe if I had greased it), it would certainly have been a different story.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 02:49 PM
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Summit racing has a similar priced engine stand of same weight capacity... Anyone have any experience with this stand or other stands that held up to the 7.3
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 05:23 PM
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Grease that baby up with axle grease and get a big pipe, she'll rotate.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by HKusp
Grease that baby up with axle grease and get a big pipe, she'll rotate.
I'm not complaining about it . . . I was glad it didn't get away from me and start swinging like a pendulum
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 05:50 PM
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If I was doing this, I would put small valves in the rear freeze plugs for making it super easy to replace the coolant completely. The plug behind the starter is quite hidden. And how about removing the starter and taking it to your friendly electrical shop to make it last another 300,000 miles? New exhaust gaskets and bolts?
Also, at this time, replace the seals at the input to the transmission. New torque convertor if you have the money? Take the radiator to a shop and have the oil to water heat exchanger checked and everything cleaned up and painted? New hoses from the transmission to the front end? New boots for the charge air cooler? Definitely new hoses and belt. Have we spent enough money yet?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by retiredsparky
If I was doing this, I would put small valves in the rear freeze plugs for making it super easy to replace the coolant completely. The plug behind the starter is quite hidden. And how about removing the starter and taking it to your friendly electrical shop to make it last another 300,000 miles? New exhaust gaskets and bolts?
Also, at this time, replace the seals at the input to the transmission. New torque convertor if you have the money? Take the radiator to a shop and have the oil to water heat exchanger checked and everything cleaned up and painted? New hoses from the transmission to the front end? New boots for the charge air cooler? Definitely new hoses and belt. Have we spent enough money yet?
Already did the starter.. Air boots.. ... Good ideas on exhaust manifold gaskets and bolts and trans seals and trans cooler lines... Do trans cooler lines wear out? Hmm torque converter... That's a thought... Think I'm gonna do front and rear seals on the engine too... Hadn't thought about getting the radiator testd and cleaned... Should I do anything with the trans cooler?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2014 | 10:51 PM
  #29  
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Should I just put new lines on my cooler or upgrade to 6.0 or aftermarket tranny cooler
 
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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 07:41 AM
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The 6.0 cooler is definitely the way to go if you can get ahold of one. They do a great job. As for the tranny lines, mine have in the past disintegrated right at the bend underneath the radiator. I just had one replaced about 2 and a half years ago, and I just noticed a few weeks ago it is rusty again. I run in a lot of salt in the winter and it eats things up. Do a quick visual while you are in there, if they pass the visual, then I would think you are fine. The insides of the lines should look great, they rot from the outside in.
 
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