Radiator woes continue
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Elder User
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From: Cuba, AL (NO internet)
Well let me try to catch up on a few replies. I'm on my phone and can't see my Sig but it should say 239 Flathead....I think...lol. Anyway running that and a factory radiator. When I got the truck it had the wrong cap on it and when I posted on here I was told DO NOT put a higher pressure cap for any reason so that suggestion confuses me. It is my first inclination to up the pressure but I'd have to look back and find the discussion on it. Also to answer you Jim, I've been driving it for two years with this leaking. It leaks until it can't anymore I guess. Yesterday all I did was fill the radiator and started the engine....it never gulped coolant into the block like most modern engines do. Normally when I remove a radiator then put it back in I fill the radiator and wait till the thermostat opens and draws coolant into the engine. At that point I finish filling the system. So this one was a little different. I'm going to NAPA in the morning to check the cap and the pressure at the radiator neck.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
You for sure don't want the cooling system pressure to exceed 4 psi, or you risk ballooning the top tank or splitting a seam. Ask me how I know...
I usually run the engine up to temperature on a fresh fill with the cap just loose in the neck. It may burp and the cap will keep most of the water from spewing out, but let out the air.
As noted in a different thread about adding a recovery tank, flat V8 cooling system capacity is 22 qts, and it expands almost 5% from 70 deg. to 180 deg. That is more than a quart. You have to leave plenty of room in the tank for expansion.
Did you measure your filler neck and the cap?
I usually run the engine up to temperature on a fresh fill with the cap just loose in the neck. It may burp and the cap will keep most of the water from spewing out, but let out the air.
As noted in a different thread about adding a recovery tank, flat V8 cooling system capacity is 22 qts, and it expands almost 5% from 70 deg. to 180 deg. That is more than a quart. You have to leave plenty of room in the tank for expansion.
Did you measure your filler neck and the cap?
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Buffalo
The more I read the more I think I agree with Pete, it sounds like air in the system somewhere. Increasing the pressure sounds like a bad idea with your engine and radiator and Ross has a scary story to reinforce that thought.
Good luck Wayne.
Wally
Good luck Wayne.
Wally
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
I hope it is not a head gasket....my gut isn't feeling good about that...
I don't know my flatty's though...but if you get an immediate leak before it warms up it seems pressure is building right away. And in my experience, it doesn't neccessarily have to be pulling coolant into the cylinder on the intake stroke. Hmmmm....I am subscribed...and I hope I am way off here.
I don't know my flatty's though...but if you get an immediate leak before it warms up it seems pressure is building right away. And in my experience, it doesn't neccessarily have to be pulling coolant into the cylinder on the intake stroke. Hmmmm....I am subscribed...and I hope I am way off here.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 294
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From: Pensacola, FL
All thermostats have some means of air bleed built in. If you hold them up to the light, you can see the seat or the disc has a wavy edge, or a notch cut in it to provide air bleed/minimum flow. The only exceptions are the kinds that have a separate disc to open/close a bypass.
Let's see what he comes up with tomorrow.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Northville, MI
Wayne, you are right. Something is keeping your system from filling. Thermostats in backwards will cause that and air trapped in the system when parts of the cooling system are higher than the water level in the radiator. Some cars with low mounted radiators used to have bleeder valves on the top of the upper radiator hoses.
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Elder User
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From: Cuba, AL (NO internet)
Ok here's what I've come up with. I'm at NAPA. Napa part number 703-1419 is the cap that it shows for many years of these trucks including mine. That's a Stant # 10281. Picture shows it to measure 1 1/4" from top of cap to bottom of the metal button that is the lowest part of the cap in the radiator. Kinda hard to measure a vague dimension like that since its a compressed dimension. My cap measures around 1.4" uncompressed and the 1 1/4" number compressed. Neck of the radiator measures 1.09" with a digital caliper. Keep in mind the longer number on the cap is to the TOP of the cap. Radiator was measured from top of flange obviously. The cap isn't seating and sealing off. We are all stumped here because we see no caps listed longer. No clue what to do. I went thru every single cap in stock here and none are even close to the length of the one i have in hand. And none are 4# caps either. My radiator is a factory flathead radiator and I know hundreds of you guys are running them just fine. What should I try next?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Northville, MI
Ok here's what I've come up with. I'm at NAPA. Napa part number 703-1419 is the cap that it shows for many years of these trucks including mine. That's a Stant # 10281. Picture shows it to measure 1 1/4" from top of cap to bottom of the metal button that is the lowest part of the cap in the radiator. Kinda hard to measure a vague dimension like that since its a compressed dimension. My cap measures around 1.4" uncompressed and the 1 1/4" number compressed. Neck of the radiator measures 1.09" with a digital caliper. Keep in mind the longer number on the cap is to the TOP of the cap. Radiator was measured from top of flange obviously. The cap isn't seating and sealing off. We are all stumped here because we see no caps listed longer. No clue what to do. I went thru every single cap in stock here and none are even close to the length of the one i have in hand. And none are 4# caps either. My radiator is a factory flathead radiator and I know hundreds of you guys are running them just fine. What should I try next?
Hmmm . . . I don't understand Wayne. If the radiator flange to seat measures 1.09" and the old radiator cap top seal to bottom seal measures 1.4" then you should have .31" of compression which should be OK. What am I missing or misreading?
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Elder User
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From: Cuba, AL (NO internet)
There is an inner brass piece that is just on the underside of the part of the cap you twist. That brass piece is what sits on the top of the radiator housing. Measuring from that to the bottom of the COMPRESSED cap gets me .844".....so I'm short!! 
An overflow wouldn't even help because the radiator must seal at the cap.
Pete: Thanks....see my post above that lists that same NAPA part number....
An overflow wouldn't even help because the radiator must seal at the cap.Pete: Thanks....see my post above that lists that same NAPA part number....
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Northville, MI
I missed that number so yes you had the same number as on the website buut it obviously is the wrong part. I think that I had the same problem at NAPA but the guys went in the back and found on that worked.
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Elder User
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From: Cuba, AL (NO internet)
A quick call to Stant......there are NO caps longer than the one I have. How is that possible!!!!!
And look at this part drawing from Van Pelt....what the heck is part #8067? Looks like some kind of tube sticking into the top of the radiator...which would do what to the overflow tube that is made into the radiator neck?? And how does is connect? Never seen one....anybody?
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...48-51truck.jpg
And look at this part drawing from Van Pelt....what the heck is part #8067? Looks like some kind of tube sticking into the top of the radiator...which would do what to the overflow tube that is made into the radiator neck?? And how does is connect? Never seen one....anybody?
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...48-51truck.jpg